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  • Installation of Autobahn88 intake & top intercooler piping

    Whilst I am on it, here's a brief installation guide to installing the Autobahn88 replacement intake piping, and top intercooler pipe. I still have to fit the bottom SMIC pipe buit am waiting upon a new reducer for where it connects up to the turbo piping.

    Firstly, 5 things to note when installing this kit:

    1. Check that all the internals of the piping are clean of any foreign matter such as metal filings from the pipewrk being cut, I had some in one of my pipes but erred on the side of caution and cleaned all of them out with some degreaser and water.

    2. Go out and buy some decent "normal" stainless steel hose clamps, it will make life a hell of lot easier doing the install and they look neater. Thse can be bought from Autobahn88 very cheaply in bulk.

    3. As per Runuts recommendations, trim the silicone joined down to a decent length so they don't bag out at the ends when the clamps are installed, looks much neater.

    4. You will need to bend the bracket on the top pipe to get it to mate up properly with the stock colt pipework from the SMIC. I have now fit two of these sets of piping and in both cases after the top pipe was bolted to the engine and sitting unclamped in the inlet manifold 90deg rubber bend, you will need to push down on the top of the piping to get it to mate up properly with the SMIC pipe. Don't push too hard or you may crack the bracket weld.

    5. Ensure you install the BOV the correct way around, mine is deliberately installed back to front to gain a bit of flutter on a test run before being reinstalled the correct way around.


    Ok, with that out of the way,

    1. First up get that humungous battery out of the way, it will make life 100% easier without it.

    http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/4243/ic1k.jpg

    2. Undo the hose clamps for the top rubber pipe with a socket wrench, not a screw driver, otherwise this job will take twice a long and you will likely strip the philips head of the clamp trying to loosen/tighten it. Remove pipe and set aside. Wack a couple of rags in the open pipework in case you drop something solid in there.

    http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/6609/ic2s.jpg

    http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/8500/ic3o.jpg

    3. Undo clamps for the top section of the intake pipe to the airbox and remove pipework.

    http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/2408/ic4h.jpg

    4. Use a pair of pliers to remove the vacuum hose clamp from the BOV, loosen BOV hose clamps to the main inlet return pipe and the rubber hose from the top pipe, remove BOV. Also remove the small breather pipe that runs from the rocker cover to the intake, the plastic bung will have to be remove and this hose will be reused with the Autobahn setup.

    http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/3503/ic5j.jpg

    http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/6498/ic9.jpg

    5. I also thought it was a good idea to remove the airflow sensor plugs and loom considering I was constantly installing/removing the airbox to get it to line up properly. The top of the airbox will need to be removed to access the top pipe bracket bolts.

    http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/6610/ic6t.jpg

    6. Here are the top pipe bracket bolts, remove them and place in a safe spot.

    http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/2228/ic7u.jpg

    7. Once the bracket is unbolted, loosen the inlet manifold hose clamp and remove all that section of piping. The rubber BOV hose will also have to be removed from this section of piping as it is still utilised in the Autobahn kit.

    http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/4637/ic8h.jpg

    8. Reach down the the bottom of the remaining half of the intake pipe and loosen the clamp, this section can be hard to remove due to constant heat from the turbo. Simply twist the hose left to right, slowly working it from the turbo inlet pipe.

    http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/9816/ic10o.jpg

    Bottom intake pipe removed.

    http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/1857/ic11.jpg

    9. There is the possibility with this setup that the vacuum hose may not be long enough for certain BOV's, check that it reaches properly without being strained. I have also found on a previous setup that the rocker cover hose will need to be clamped down onto the Autobahn88 intake as it reasonably short without the plastic bung. I just tightened a cable tie over the end of the hose to prevent it from pulling over the intake pipe lip, you could also use as small hose clamp here (preferable).

    Grab the silicone joiner and loosened hose clamps and place it on the end of the new intake piping, then work it onto the turbo inlet, tighten the clamps just enough so you can still move the piping for further adjustment. At this stage I put the top of the air box on and installed the airbox silicone joiner to make sure that everything lined up properly, then tightened both of the bottom hose clamps. Remove airbox again.

    http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/5483/ic12.jpg

    10. Install BOV, vacuum tubing and rocker cover hose using the supplied silicone joiner for the BOV, do not fully tighten the BOV clamps yet.

    http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/8642/ic13.jpg

    11. Install top pipe into the inlet plenum elbow and line up the bracket holes with the bolt hole on the engine, replace original bolts. Re-install the rubber BOV hose and tighten all BOV hose clamps. This is where you need to bend the top pipe downwards to get it to line up with the stock SMIC piping.

    http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/3250/ic14.jpg

    12. This is the inlet pipe that requires a cable tie or small clamp to prevent the rocker cover hose from slipping off.
    http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/3919/ic15.jpg

    13. Install trimmed silicone hump hose and tighten all clamps including on the hump hose, plenum elbow, and on the re-installed airbox cover. Reinstall the battery and check that nothing is going to rub or rattle against each other, as the intake piping tends to pull the airbox towards the battery, re-adjust if necessary. All finished! (note the BOV installed the correct way around!!)

    http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/5199/pipef.jpg

    14. Before we get too carried away, you need to to a road test to check for leaks and the dreaded Limp or CEL, ensure you take some tools with you just in case something pops off whilst in transit. Enjoy the induction noise!

    Mac, the unimpressed terrier!

    http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/5972/maccy.jpg

  • #2
    thats a great write up!!!

    Not a big fan of the trimmed humped silicon joiner.... looks like the pipes are going to slip out each side (I know they won't)... just looks strange!

    Comment


    • #3
      Like you mention, it just looks like it will slip off as the clamps are well behind the beading on the pipework - more the fault of the piping with such a long section of reduced size. I actually slipped with the stanley knife, and had to cut that hump joiner a little shorter than I would have liked - lol! Lucky they are cheap to buy, I may get another one but only trim it short on the right-hand side, but they do look dicky when they flare out from being too long.

      Comment


      • #4
        yeah, still looks awesome nonetheless...

        Comment


        • #5
          nice work, looks like your dog ate your homework dude!

          Comment


          • #6
            Excellent write-up, Coro! Now, after all that work, do you notice any difference/improvement in performance?

            Comment


            • #7
              Awesome write up!! with the bracket on the top pipe, maybe better to redrill the holes in the correct position rather than bending the whole thing ? worked pretty well for me.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by lawocg View Post
                Awesome write up!! with the bracket on the top pipe, maybe better to redrill the holes in the correct position rather than bending the whole thing ? worked pretty well for me.
                That is another option, i just found it easier to make it fit when bolted in position, but probably could have experimented with moving the hole locations if I hadn't left myself so short on time.

                There are a few other options to add to this kit to make it all worthwhile, that includes the addition of a silicone 90deg elbow at the throttle body and a 2" to maybe 1.75" silicone reducer from the the still stock intercooler exit pipe. It seems a bit pointless to replace all of the air circuit with strong silicone and aluminium piping if there are still weak links in the systems (ie. any remaining rubber hoses). I don't think you can judge whether throttle or turbo response is improved without replacing these two hoses, plus the bottom intercooler pipe (which I still have to fit).

                http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/9875/36811750.png

                Comment


                • #9
                  With the hard pipes installed does getting into the air box to remove the k&n panel filter for cleaning become a pain? because wouldn't you have to undo the pipes as they aren't flexible, remove them, then you would be able to lift the lid off the airbox? please correct me if i'm wrong ><"

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