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  • #16
    thanks guys, yeah I only do iner city driving and I run on 35psi tyre pressure. I've only done 65k from new, I don't think the shocks are blown , but il check . Don't get me wrong the car drives well, and I'm addicted to the performance.

    But I'm sure you guys know what I mean, it feels like your driving a go kart on road. Compare it with the Volkswagen R and Gti, they are very stable and smooth to drive , what makes the difference? Is it suspension?

    I really don't want to sell my colt, and I can't afford to up grade to a 40k+ golf / type R


    • #17
      Coilovers are probably the way to go for you, maybe lookup the Tein's the are normally the most comfortable coils available


      • #18
        Sure, you could set up coilovers softer, but you would risk the rear spring falling or not sitting on the rear perch correctly.

        The downside to the colt is that the length of the rear shock holds the rear springs in, if the shock is to long it can allow the rear spring to come out. I can change rear springs in 5 minutes flat. due to this design.

        So to get the spring to sit well you need to load it up to all buggery increasing the spring rate.

        If they had decent made springs in the rear of the coilovers (like the koni ones) it would be fine, But alas BC gives you shit rear springs, So Im currently running king springs in the rear with BC shocks


        • #19
          Originally posted by Rstock View Post
          But I'm sure you guys know what I mean, it feels like your driving a go kart on road. Compare it with the Volkswagen R and Gti, they are very stable and smooth to drive , what makes the difference? Is it suspension? I really don't want to sell my colt, and I can't afford to up grade to a 40k+ golf / type R
          It's a performance hot hatch, it's meant to feel like a go-kart, that's how the ralliart engineers designed the shock/spring package around the chassis (as they called it 'sports tuned')

          I still run factory springs and shocks and love the way it handles corners despite the height of the car compared to its overall wheel base/length. Changing/upgrading to anything from the factory ralliart suspension package (coilovers, springs etc) will not achieve what you want in terms of a softer/less stiff ride, despite the damping adjustability of coilovers and the possibility of getting a customised 'softer' spring rate coil to suit. The only possible option (bar selling the car for something less agressive) would be to source a shock/spring package to suit the garden variety colts of the same model, straight bolt-in - but this will come at the expense of losing corner handling and gaining 15mm ride height over factory rcolt spec suspension.

          The differences (I think) ultimately come down to the rcolt's chassis - RISE body structure (extra welding and bracing - stiffer than an evo) and the addition of a front strut brace, combined with a shorter/more compact chassis when compared to something like a golf, civic or wrx which doesn't dissapate/absorb the jolts as well as a large car/hatch.

          My 2c


          • #20
            Yeah I guess your right wombat, A leopard can't change it's spots it is what it is,

            Thanks guys


            • #21
              Originally posted by Rstock View Post
              Compare it with the Volkswagen R and Gti, they are very stable and smooth to drive , what makes the difference? Is it suspension? I really don't want to sell my colt, and I can't afford to up grade to a 40k+ golf / type R
              Those companies like VW spend shitloads on suspension tuning alone to find the best balance of NVH (noise, vibration, harshness). You need to bear in mind that whilst the rcolt is a performance hatch, it is still based on a basic entry level hatch that was designed and engineered to a certain price point. Hence you will never achieve the level of ride comfort + handling combo as compared to a much more expensive european hot hatch's.

              Perhaps you should try driving another a couple of rcolts with upgraded suspension (one with coilovers an another with lowered springs) to see whether you'd be happy with them....before you commit to changing anything.


              • #22
                Everyone seems to love my tmr's for ride quality but I don't. That being said I'm selling them shortly.


                • #23
                  The torque situation you're talking about isn't the gear box, it's because the RColt is a turbo and it's been restricted. Something as basic as the old TMR power upgrade (which I have and love) through to a semi-pro flash to the whole-hog tune at a top level place like RoadTrackRally in Melbourne... will help get rid of that 1st to 2nd gear jolt you're talking about. The Civic type-R is naturally aspirated, so the torque curve won't spike the same way as a turbo car, especially the RColt in stock. In saying that, turbo cars don't have to be that way, but often are for maximum performance, and a lot of people like it that way. The Honda doesn't have a more refined gear box than the RColt. We share a very similar Getrag gear box as the Mini Cooper S from the same year.

                  If you're looking for refinement, you can also investigate sound proofing options. You don't want to add too much weight, but dynmatting your doors and floors and then also thickening or adding door seals will reduce the cabin noise and give you a more isolated and comfortable feel.

                  I would recommend the following for what you seem to want:

                  - A full exhaust, upgraded solenoid and linear torque (but still with increased power) tune done by the right people (aka, RoadTrackRally)
                  - TMR springs (a lowered progressive rate spring will reduce what you are calling 'crashing' but also improve handling).
                  - Sound-proofing (dynamat your doors and floor)
                  - Upgrade your stereo (with your soundproofing you'll be able to really hear the difference)
                  - change your internal ceiling lights from yellow lights to whiter coloured bulbs (a small but effective 'refinement')

                  You'll be happier than you could imagine.


                  • #24
                    THANKS BFLA!!! That does sound like a good plan of attack , I've been wanting to upgrade the stereo too, I've got some alpine type r gear in the shed

                    And love the idea about the roof light! That will be my first move .

                    Unfortunately I live in perth , so it's half baked tuning shops and $15 pints, oh and everything closes at 5pm , yay

                    (I do however like "Cred")

                    Not sure where to get a tune, not a big fan of RPW, not that I have anything against them. Just a preference

                    Thanks again guys


                    • #25
                      Sounds good, let us know how you go with a thread in the Member's Rides section.

                      Regarding the tune and availability, if you're not wanting to get it done over there, at the very least you could let the car breathe a bit more with the HKS muffler and a K&N air filter, or the more expensive ralliart air filter (which I use and can recommend ($193 from TMR).

                      The HKS muffler is almost identical to the Ralliart one (I have heard that HKS built the Ralliart one) and is much cheaper and still available:

                      And to avoid discolouration of your bumper, you can get this ($150) bumper protector from HKS designed for their muffler (again they also made a badged version for ralliart).

                      The ECU will take around 500kms to 'learn' how these upgrades fit in, so if you do get them then drive the car very hard through the entire rev range and let it sort itself out. Will only be good for around 2-4kw overall, but it makes the car feel better through the rev range and I think you'll appreciate the subtle differences.

                      I also think it's a good idea to get the Evo X "RS" metal body bypass valve (around $200 from TMR, or possibly cheaper on ebay), and the 1.1 bar Ralliart sports radiator cap ($50 from TMR). A lot of people say the bypass valve isn't worth doing, I disagree, and it is no doubt more useful if you're running more PSI than stock (the stock bypass valve is rated at 13PSI before leakage, the metal one is rated to 30PSI) but I think it is slightly noticeable. The 1.1 bar radiator cap is just an insurance thing to protect your engine.

                      While these options aren't the biggest BANG FOR BUCK etc... they are safe and subtle refinements that slowly add up to making your car better overall, which I think is what you're after.

                      Last edited by BFLA; 02-07-2013, 12:50 PM.