K & N Intake Kit

[lovecolt]

Just saw the news on coltclub.eu, K & N has finally released an intake kit for the CZT. As CZT is almost identical to RColt (all mechanically / electronically), there might be a chance that this will work on ours.

Here's the info on it:
Part Number: 57-0649
Weight: 2.3 lb (1 kg)
Product Box Length: 9 in (229 mm)
Product Box Width: 9 in (229 mm)
Product Box Height: 9 in (229 mm)

http://www.kandn.com/images/l/57-0649.jpg

Installation Sheet: http://www.kandn.com/instructions/57-0649.pdf

So, any of you guys want to try out?

[putty_sydney]

This is more like a hot air intake than a cold air intake. Sure it may flow better but you are taking in all of the hot air from the engine bay.

I'll be waiting until an efficient kit is released. I will be going with the K&N panel filter in the meantime

[lovecolt]

That's true....but you will find it hard to have a intake kit that comes with everything. Heat shield itself it really the easy part to fabricate locally.

[Steve-B]

But guys think about it,
remove the piping of the air intake scope, remove the box, and the piping to the turbo. run the return/breather tube with a mini k&n ive seen, then with this kit, run the pvc black piping somewhere and attach the k&n to the end and put it a place where it IS going to get cold air..
and having the other plastic attachment for the AFM means you wont get an engine light.
Whats the retail lover ?

( in english, basically, remove all the old setup, you'll get more room to fit and mount the filter in a spot to get cold air )

[Steve-B]

or even a farking better idea, upgrade to a front mount and put this bad boy in the caverty where the mini intercooler was. THEN you would have the ultimate intake. its like the hole was made for the k&n and the front mount will cap it all together.

[lovecolt]

Retail is around 110 Pound, which is 260 AUD (delivered to anywhere in UK) So, it might end up 300 to get it delivered from UK. Unless the local K & N can get their hands on them.

[Macca]

The oil return from the crankshaft side of the engine (If thats what you talking about steve) is supposed to be run back to the intake for EPA reasons ;)

[radiostar69]

Obviously you guys dont want the massive warranty that came with the car? Because there is very little we can do until Ralliart come out with some factory upgrade. As much as i want to mod my baby, i figure the warranty just too good to pass up. However, my cousin has modified his liberty GT, including chip; (bout 175kw to each wheel!)this was all done down at Subaru Docklands (melb) and because the modding was done by subaru, they can write off any problems they have with the mods...does that make sense. My dealer did mention very casually that they can chip my colt and still keep the warranty....all i have to do now is find the bloody chip...and persuade the very nice dealer to install it for me!

[putty_sydney]

Personally I do not trust the warranty mitsubishi offers. I did the clutch in my Evo 9 3 months after I purchased it and was left with a $2500 bill at the end of it!! From my experience mitsubishi's warranty is similar to dealing with insurance companies, they will do whatever they can to get out of it.

[hendo]

the warrenty is over rated i went in and asked if a cat back would void warrenty they said no, then i went in a few weeks later and they said the warrenty would be void on the exhaust side of the motor so yeah they dont have to cover you if they dont want.

[Steve-B]

im sure there is a warranty thread if you would like to take this off topic conversation there...this thread is about the new k&n air filter that was released for our car.

[liou]

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/3981/p1020898mediumfd1.th.jpg (http://img339.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1020898mediumfd1.jpg)

And here is my engine bay with the Κ&Ν induction kit installed. After i do a dyno test i'll post any remarks about it. For now all i can say is this. It sounds GREAT!!!

[widge]

This is more like a hot air intake than a cold air intake. Sure it may flow better but you are taking in all of the hot air from the engine bay.

I'll be waiting until an efficient kit is released. I will be going with the K&N panel filter in the meantime


Just one thing with boosted cars the air intake doesnt need to be somewere were it can pick up cold air because it is going through the turbo which is really hot anyway then through the Intercooler which is were the air cools down thats my 2c

[Steve-B]

http://www.rcolt.com/showthread.php?t=626

[Rdster]

Just one thing with boosted cars the air intake doesnt need to be somewere were it can pick up cold air because it is going through the turbo which is really hot anyway then through the Intercooler which is were the air cools down thats my 2c

A turbocharged engine does require cold air.The exhaust and intake impellers are separate.

Click on the link below that explains exactly how a turbocharger works.

http://www.turbo-kits.com/how_turbos_work3.html

[widge]

I realise that they are seperate units in a way but there so close which one would think it would heat the air hence an intercooler is necesary. If the air being pulled in by a turbo stays as cool as it is when it is going through the filter then why do u need a cooler?

[Corosith]

Maybe the best check to see whether a pod filter or an enclosed panel filter works better with regards to air temps, would be to measure the air temp between the compressor/intercooler & intercooler/throttle-body. This would allow us to see whether the intercooler is doing its job properly - if it isn't, then you will need to make sure that you are getting as much cold air through your filter as possible (open pod filter sitting in a hot engine bay suffers from heat soak, enclosed panel filter only lets in cool air - have a look at the carbon fibre air boxes on the super tourer & WRC engine bays !). If the cooler isn't very efficient and you have an exposed pod filter, then you are contributing hot air to the circuit. As a result the engines knock sensor will probably tell the computer to wind back the timing to help protect the engine -resulting in a loss of power!

[speedracer]

I have my K&N pod kit on order now.
the quoted price was $115 plus GST plus postage.
they can do air freight which takes about 2-3 weeks and costs $?? (amount to be advised once they get the item weight and size). All up it should come in at under $200. ( will post final cost once they get the postage cost for me)
or they can ocean freight it which takes up to 3 months but is free !

When I get it I'll post some pics and feedback on it.

[phul007]

I had a K&n pod on my GSR , in order to get cold air to it I ran a duct from the from of the car to close to the pod. I did find that it you were sitting at the lights for a long time you could notice the heat soak, even with a Evo 3 bonnet with vents at the front and directly above the air pod heat would still build up.

My opinion is a POd will sound great but a panel filter with ducting will be more efficent, If you can do a pod with ducting even better but I really think space is going to be a problem.

My last thing have you ever thought of putting the pod on the other side of the front bumper from the intercooler. Alot of heavily modded cars have theirs down the front.

[lovecolt]

Putting the pod on other side of front bumper? you mean the left hand side corner?? But the air filter section is at right hand side...

For air ducting, i think Tingtw in this forum has managed to make a air duct from front bumper by taking off its right hand side foggies. Technically, its doable if you take off your foggies and either relocate the huge ass battery or swap for a smaller one.

My idea situation, is have a panel filter + ducting in summer [engine heat sorted] and a pod filter (with or without shield) in cold winter [shouldn't matter too much as the air's freezing cold].

[phul007]

Dont laugh I used some AG pipe (black bendable drainage pipe) to run from the side of the engine to the front it would of bee 2-3 metres. The colt would be much smaller in length to do this.

You could even pick the air up for under the car as long as it have some force pushing the air in.

But in saying all this bottom line how much more power will you get.

Without going to sideways , have you looked at those vortex generators that you put in the intake pipes that is suppose to give you more power.
They sound dodgey to me but some people swear by them.
The look like a old fashion vegie boiler, (showing my age), its a metal circle with vanes in them.

[ShortShift]

Putting the pod on other side of front bumper? you mean the left hand side corner?? But the air filter section is at right hand side...

For air ducting, i think Tingtw in this forum has managed to make a air duct from front bumper by taking off its right hand side foggies. Technically, its doable if you take off your foggies and either relocate the huge ass battery or swap for a smaller one.

My idea situation, is have a panel filter + ducting in summer [engine heat sorted] and a pod filter (with or without shield) in cold winter [shouldn't matter too much as the air's freezing cold].

Except for one thing It's a Turbo it's gonna make sweet FA difference what temp the air is at the initial point of entry once it hits the snail. Hence why intercooler is there. A waterspray kit can be made cheap as chips which will do wonders for your air temps.

Those vortex/hyclone things work on the principle that the turbulence created by them results in better fuel/air mixing in the cylinder, you don;t want restrictions in a forced induction setup as your running higher than atmosphere pressure it's a bit of a wank you can be sure that it's gonna mix well enough.

[phul007]

I still think cold air into the "SNAIL" will increase the effiency of the intercooler, Logic would say is that the intercooler can only decrease the temperature by X degrees so if the air is colder coming in it must be colder coming out. The heat transfered across the turbo from outlet to inlet should not be that much that it would heat any temperature air to the same temperature before the intercooler. Im no engineer but it all must help in the long run by trying to keep to inlet side as cool as possible.

I think a water spray would be a great idea, put a micro switch on the throttle body so at 80% throttle the spray would come on. Not sure what the farmers would say with the drought though lol:eek:

[McCoy]

Fluid dynamics wether it be N/A or turbo is a science. So many times you see people whack on a pod and think "yeah, I've got more power!"

Chances are you havent. Sure your car might breath better, it may even display changes in the rev's being able to drop or increase quicker, but as far as HP gains, we are tlaking minimal. As far as hot vs. cold, sure the colder the better, but once again the difference with a pod would be so small you may not even detect it on a dyno.

A water sprayer in theory would help, ut I cant see any huge gains there either, not unless your talking about changing your I/C.

[radiostar69]

. Not sure what the farmers would say with the drought though lol:eek:

Just come down to the wettest part of victoria...Wbool...always bloody raining here!

[McCoy]

Couldnt you just integrate the I/C switch from an EVO 9 and use the spare blank button next to the ASC? That would look really clean.

[MLT.32E_RCOLT]

It's a Turbo it's gonna make sweet FA difference what temp the air is at the initial point of entry once it hits the snail

your completely wrong there if the air going into the snail is cool than the air going through the intercooler is colder there for air is denser so therefore more air into the cylinder therefore creating a bigger explosion which equals more power, thats why NOS is effective cause its sub 0-degrees

I personally have put water spray kit that i have made to the intercooler and it makes the car run better especially in the heat it feels like its running in a cool day

[MLT.32E_RCOLT]

I was planning on doing a water spray for the FMIC, I don't expect massive gains but it could help a little

have a look how i did mine and i could doing again quite cheap

[lovecolt]

I think the point of watersprayer, is more for preventing heat soak.

[ShortShift]

your completely wrong there if the air going into the snail is cool than the air going through the intercooler is colder there for air is denser so therefore more air into the cylinder therefore creating a bigger explosion which equals more power, thats why NOS is effective cause its sub 0-degrees

I personally have put water spray kit that i have made to the intercooler and it makes the car run better especially in the heat it feels like its running in a cool day

The point is it makes for very little difference really unless your picking up some seriously cold air. In all honesty no-one is breaking new ground here (with the exception of ECU mods) all these things have been covered before on every other turbo car forum the principles are the same, essentially it a case of SSDB (same shit different bucket).

[Corosith]

Maybe you could run a Hobbs pressure switch so that the water sprayer would only come on at a preset boost pressure, and also have an inline switch to switch it of completely if not needed. You can get a 15psi switch that can be adjusted to activate anywhere between 11-18.75psi, also you coud get a larger tank mounted behind the rear seats with a decent capacity or buildup a big tank to fit in the spare wheel space- just another idea!!:)

[Steve-B]

http://www.rcolt.com/showthread.php?t=807