View Full Version : Turbo-back Exhaust & Shop in Sydney-Gosford-Newcastle
fauxpas
01-06-2010, 09:16 PM
OK, will be getting my ride back from Adaptronic soon with an Innovate LC1 and its about time for an exhaust system...
Any recommendations for a 'not-too-expensive' shop from Sydney to Newcastle?
Any idea what a turbo-back system will set me back? I want flow and low cost and I'm not interested in brand names...
Macca
01-06-2010, 11:19 PM
expect around $1500 with metal cat and stainless i would think.
Depends on where you go, just drive around newcastle with what you want and get some quotes.
tony if you are doing this please let me know as im very keen on this too!!!!!!
ELEGNT
01-06-2010, 11:41 PM
dont go stainless it will cost you too much and it will last longer than your car will.
all in mild~
custom dump : around 300
Frontpipe: around 250
Cat: 250
the rest back around: 300
so just the front bit around $800? also are they gonna custom made for you + fit it up in 1 go? if yes im gonna get it anytime im free...=D
63dnl
02-06-2010, 12:26 AM
faux whats an Innovate LC1?
0dd0ne
02-06-2010, 12:42 AM
faux whats an Innovate LC1?
+1 whats this?
fauxpas
02-06-2010, 06:45 AM
Wideband oxy sensor... From what I can see it's one of the better ones...
With it in I can keep an eye on the fuel ratios and tune accordingly when I mod or boost...
The stock narrow band sensor only reads between 14.4 and 15.2 if I remember right...
skyrex
04-06-2010, 12:38 AM
Ya, generally Narrow only has a range of 0V-1V and wideband does 0V-5V.
Larger range means more intervals of measurement for more accurate tuning etc. The LC1 has the ability to convert a signal out of itself (as narrowband) for ECU?
Anyway, if you're coming up to Newcastle, try Newcastle Mufflers (http://maps.google.com.au/places/au/bennetts-green/pacific-hwy/49/-newcastle-muffler-service?gl=au), or Lilfords Exhausts (http://whitepages.com.au/wp/busSearch.do?subscriberName=Lilford+Exhaust&location=), or Premier Exhaust (http://premierexhaust.com.au/). I'd probably try them in that order of preference too.
fauxpas
15-07-2010, 06:54 PM
OK, got a quote from my local exhaust shop... Includes a high flow HM metal cat... 2.5" mandrel bent...
$800 from dump pipe
$1000 including a custom dump pipe
When quoting the dump he wasn't very enthusiastic about it so I asked why... He reckons you will notice the power of the dump on the dyno, but maybe not day to day, and it will lag a bit on the changes... He owns a rex and he reckons heaps of his mates don't go dumps for this reason... Thoughts guys?
Either way I think its a good price...
Hi Fauxpas,
I just came across this thread as I am looking at buying a RC as a daily driver, I actually own a worked WRX now. I have to say I am very suprised about the dump pipe comments. The dump pipe is the most important part of an exhaust on a turbo car. What is the point of doing any part of an exhaust if you don't change the dump? It's like drinking through a 2cm straw with a 1cm mouth piece.
My guess is that this guy doesn't want to make a dump pipe as it is not as simple as Mandrel bending steel. His WRX comments are completely incorrect, MRT build a twin entry dump specifically designed for the WRXes turbo and it adds big KW across the rev range.
Either way aren't you doing this a bit backwards? I've noticed that you have gone along the path of stand alone ECU and you have have bothered to get real time O2 readings I am guessing you are going to be running a really aggresive tune I am assuming you are not doing this using the standard turbo etc? In which case I would be getting the dump and exhaust built around the new turbo as I say any decent turbo would be require a 3 inch system.
Anyway I slipped off the point.
Anyone who thinks a dump pipe upgrade is not needed shouldn't own an exhaust shop
fauxpas
18-08-2010, 06:02 PM
You're probably right on the dump... But I have noticed the strong power from low revs is gone and there is better top end... It really is chalk and cheese now between low and high revs...
As for doing things arse about, this is what I did...
Piggyback ECU first as I didn't want any mods that could pop a cel... I didn't even run a BOV till the ECU was done...
Then I had a wideband oxy sensor installed...
Then the exhaust...
The idea being I wanted to keep an eye on the afrs as soon as I got the exhaust done for fear of leaning out...
So I don't think I did things arse about... It was done safe as far as I'm concerned...
Others here have done mods with no ECU and pop cels constantly and live with it... Not my bag...
Sorry mate didn't mean to offend in any way :)
I just read over the mods you've done. I didn't mean you did it arse about as in you did the ECU first. I just thought you because of the mods you did first ECU \ Oxy sensor that you were building a base for big mods. I don't know if R Colts are different for some reason but on all my cars I haven't done an ECU untill I got to the point on doing Cam's, bigger turbo and secondary fuel pumps that is why I was saying to wait till you pick your turbo before doing the exhaust but once again maybe the Colt is different.
What do you mean by 'pop a cel' you mean the check engine light coming on?
Sorry to ask a million questions but i am thinking of getting a colt as a daily and was hoping to get it up round the 150kw 160kw mark and am concerned that these cars are setup very differently than everything else I have built (I don't want to have to reinvent the wheel). For example your worried about leaning out with an exhaust? Is this something that happens with the RColt? as everything else I have owned runs richer with an exhaust not leaner. But now I am worried that what I assumed about these cars may be way off base, I was just planing on buying one doing all the breathing mods Ex\In\IC then throw a shit load of fuel at it and run an HKS F-CON IS (I assume the ECU is closed loop) and wind the boost through the roof. But now i am thinking this wouldn't work as i noticed you guys are all using some other ECU and a tuner I've never heard of this makes me think the big names wont work?
Sorry for all the questions I am guessing half of them should be in a different thread!
yeh Qiky, our ECU has very restrictive parameters which cause check engine lights at the drop of a hat
not only CELs but boost cuts in higher gears at high speed, which can be a bit "inconvenient" to say the least
a reflash has been on the cards for some time but some of us are losing hope, best results have been from adaptronic ECU with base maps provided by Rcolt local guru daedelusjc
see members ride section for jemjem's car
Macca
18-08-2010, 08:05 PM
From what we have found most after market ECU and EBC's will cause CEL issues.
the adaptronic only works with some sort of aux circuit board, which seems to be kept a little hush hush. I wouldn't know the full details, I haven't joined that band wagon.
running lean isnt too much of an issue, as on full boost it run pig rich (around 9) but the ease of getting check engine lights is crazy, and very restrictive.
I have run an MBC and turbosmart dual port BOV and K&N pod filter and was living in CEL city
Ill be waiting for the flash my self.
Soon finishing of the exhaust.
Jemjem
18-08-2010, 08:39 PM
There is so much more to chose from now with the Rcolt, the development of after market bolt on....... lots to think about...........With the ECU yeah there's been great gaines with Adaptronic and getting more popular by the day with 8 or 10 more installments in Rcolts in the next 1 to 2 months...... or you can sit and wait for the Re flash and see if it works as well eveyone hopes.........
fauxpas
18-08-2010, 09:02 PM
To get 150-160fwkw from an rcolt as a reliable daily driver you'll need;
ECU (Adaptronic or re-flash)
Full exhaust including manifold
Front mount intercooler
Ability to up boost to at least 17-20psi
Anything more power than that you're looking at turbo & injectors & fuel pump and obviously a manifold to suit the chosen turbo...
Zadok
18-08-2010, 10:47 PM
Yeah the ecu is a pain and has some annoying quirks, such as allowing you to run 1.5 bar of boost on full throttle, but then throwing a CEL if you boost over about .7bar on anything less than full throttle lol. Rowan has made 145kw atw with the standard ecu on about 16psi midrange, 13 or so redline (check member's rides section, user name ELEGNT) as his thread has a full dyno graph with AFR's etc in there somewhere.
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