Bendix brake pads

[ozmale]

Hello guys,

For all of you guys out there who want to protect your Mag wheels and are sick of cleaning them every two days read on.

Bendix General CT or GCT disc pads are what you need to use.

The Bendix part number for ones to suit Colt Ralliart are :-

DB1381 GCT FRONT
DB1382 GCT REAR
I can get them for $60.00

Also for those of you who are interested, the front brakes on the Colt Ralliart are the same as fitted to the Volvo S40.

Even if your not that experienced you could replace the existing "DIRTY" pads in less than an hour. The only tools you need are a 12mm ring spanner and a medium to large "G" clamp.

Look at the attached diagram. The only bolts you need to undo are the 2 labeled "N1" they are 12 mm and not very tight (they don't need to be). Once they are undone the whole caliper assembly will come off in your hand and you can easily remove the disc pads. Both inner and outer pads are the same so you don't have to worry about getting it wrong they will only fit one way (beauty of Japanese cars).

To allow the caliper to fit over the new thicker pads you will need to push the piston all the way back. Use the "G" Clamp to do this, just put it over the caliper and the screw bit into the piston (not on the edge) and gently do it up, you will see and feel the piston retract. At this point you should also monitor the brake fluid reservoir to ensure it doesn't over flow, as the fluid returns to it as the piston goes back.

Put the caliper back into its correct position and tighten the "N1" bolts.
Pump the brake pedal to force the pads against the rotors, and that's it. Put the wheel back on, tighten the wheel nuts then do the other side.

Simple isn't it.:D


Before everyone starts asking about how well this and that pad works, Let me quote a well know but dead rally driver. "All brake pads stop cars, some just do it a little longer than others". My point here is that these Bendix pads work and work well and they give "NO" dust. to me that is very important.

[Chipokae]

good stuff ozmale, you wouldnt happen to have done this already have you? if so, do you have any pics of you actually doing it? this would go really well in a DIY section.

[ozmale]

Fortunatly or unfortunatly Yes I have already done it. did it about 90 minutes ago, in the dark. That how easy it is.

I will be doing rear brakes in a week or so as soon as I identify the correct replacement dustless pads.

I will do a more detailed photograph post. The rear brakes are more difficult because the hand brake becomes a small extra issue.


Cheers

[Chipokae]

well make sure we get lots of photos from that too. im interesed in getting some DBA rotors which means i'll need pads too. how much were you able to get a full set of those bendix pads (front and rear)?

good luck with the rear pad change, i for one, am sick of having to clean my wheels the minute i reverse out of the garage.

[ozmale]

I can get a set of front pads for $60. I imagine the rears will be about the same price.

[Chipokae]

JESUS thats cheap even if they are bendix!
well well well, i'll know who to contact when i need new pads.
good stuff ozmale, bet you've got some contact. gotta get you on my "to know" list hehe :D jk

[Steve-B]

Ozmale, mate are you getting these trade ?
also, what is the metal percentage / compound of the pads. Also if you can price me a full set front and rear i could pay you for them on monday when we meet up, ( first id like to know the % and metal compound ) im f**king sick to death of cleaning my silver mags on a black car.
Cheers.
Steve
Steve

[ozmale]

Steve,

I can't tell you about the compound make up etc but you can read about the pads here.

http://www.bendix.com.au/Text/1128663095991-3323/pC/1132281613041-6043/Products

Bendix have always made a low dust pad, they just keep changing the name, they use to be called "Bendix advance" now "GTC". I actually dont think there is any metal in them at all, that is why they are so good.

I have been using them for years, they stop the car just fine but no dust. I also use them on my WRX. I also ran them in my Starlet Gt Turbo for 200,000ks (several sets ofcourse) and never had to have the rotors machined once. To be honest I don't care if they are made of cheese, provided they stop the car with no dust eating my mags away.
I also personally question the health risks accociated with all that dust from other pads.

Brake pad manufacturers currently do not have a listing for the colt ralliart. I had to remove one of my pads and go through books and books to match the shape etc. Then, found out they are the same front brakes as fitted to a volvo. To match the rear ones I have to go through the same process all over again, it is very time consuming to get it right. I will be a week or so before i have a match on the rear brakes.

As for price I can get the front set for $60. I don't know if its trade or not.


ozmale

[Steve-B]

eh, sixty bucks is freaking awesome.
Might get my local auto one to order some in for me and pick them up on sat, install them sat arvo so i dont have to clean the mags again before the monday meet. lol
Ozmale, mate you have more paitence than me, i had the bendix book as well, and after about an hour of looking through it i threw the book against the door. Finally another person who hates the dust !
cheers
for the hard work buddy, we will have to hook you up with some beers for your trouble !

[ozmale]

If they are too expensive from your "autoone" let me know.

ozmale

[Steve-B]

eh, if they are....i'll just ask for some cheese....lol.
you crack me up.

[Steve-B]

Auto One want $81.59
and my mech friend can get them for 70 bucks trade, so it looks like i'll be getting some off you ozmale, next week thou, as this week i just realised im broke as.

[Raymond6]

So Ozamale were the pads worn out or you just wanted to change them if they were worn out how many Km's did you get out of them?

[ozmale]

Not a problem getting the pads, but i can only usually get them on Saturday . Work a normal day job

[ozmale]

The existing original pads were not worn out, in fact they were not worn much at all. 8,000k. The rotors are worn a lot. That is the trouble with the original metal pads they wear out the rotors. They are shit. I changed them because I don't like dusty wheels.

[Steve-B]

might take some rotor hub measurements to see if dba have anything that will fit our application to complement a pad change.
Ozmale, the pads you got / are getting are the GCT versions yes ? ie the titanium stripes on them for the hassle free bedding in ?

[ozmale]

Yes, Are the GCT Version.

I have never been too concerned with the supposed bedding in.

I just put the pad in and drive round the block with my foot partly on the brake and its done. All pretty simple really

[Steve-B]

you have quite the hook up then, will pm you when i have the kesh !

[Chipokae]

as soon as i work out if dba have any rotors for us (hopefully 4000 series or something similar) i will be needing pads too. i have read that some bendix pads are harsh on the rotors, have any of you guys heard anything like this?

[JUSTJDM]

FACT
BENDIX pads are not the best pads in the world...fine if you run around town

but if you put some heat in those after couple squirts through the old roads THEY DIE OFF i have seen this happen more than on occasion
on another note something to think about....


Tyres and brakes are one of the most important things on your car more so if it has some go...

really who cares might eat rotors faster or a little dust... the main concern is brakes stop you unless you have cheap nasty ones well a tree might be your next bet..

Brakes don't skimp out on something important

[Steve-B]

got any top end brands as a substitue justjdm ?

[JUSTJDM]

Ferrado, pagid, Endless

you get what you pay for lads

[ozdick]

Ozmale fitted the Bendix GCT to mine, because we basically only use the car for city and a bit of freeway driving - and so they're fine for what we use the car for - and best of all NO DUST :) (besides I haven't driven a manual for 15 years, so I doubt I'm about to go out and do any performance driving any time soon ;)
You can check out this link on Bendix website for the type of brakes they recommend for various types of driving
http://www.bendix.com.au/Text/1117065429812-9356/uploadedFiles/1173325697380-2175.pdf

I did find this link for Colt Ralliart brake pads
http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bccatpartlist.php?make=Mitsubishi&carcode=Z27AG&intake=FI&category=suspension
Apart from selling the Ralliart brake pads, they also sell some from the Endless range.
It looks like the Endless SSY front brake pads would cost about $120 or so, plus you need to add in shipping (I'd guess about another $30-$50).
There's an interesting dicussion at this Nissan website about different brake pads - and the Endless SSY get good allrounder marks, plus bonus of low brake dust. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=160364
Provided that the brake pads are pretty consistent across their range, I guess their comments on the Endless SSY should also apply to those for the Colt Ralliart.
eg. comments
"...Endless SSY. Great for street/drag. Braking was a big improvement. Retail $230-$260 ..."
"...For pads will little dust i would try some of the Endless series "street" pads ..."
They probably won't do the job for driving around a race track, but look like they'll handle everything else pretty well.
So probably another option to consider if you want a good combo of performance and lower brake dust.

Richard

[ozdick]

Ferrado, pagid, Endless

you get what you pay for lads

Oops - missed JUSTJDM's post, before I posted mine.
Anyway - there's another recommendation for Endless

[Steve-B]

you do get what you pay for, but be reasonable with your application as well. if you dont track your car, no use getting pads that dont start working til they are red hot. So like ozdick, do some research and go from there.

[lovecolt]

I have to say, these racey type of pads still perform much better on street than bendix. They are not like semis and normally after a few turns, they are all ready to go.

[ozmale]

Hello again guys.


The purpose of my original post was to tell you guys about brake pads that stop the car better than you will ever need and give not, LOW dust but NO dust.

There are off course lots of other pads out there all with different aspects and prices etc.

The standard pads fitted to most cars are designed to stop the car within legislative specifications and give good pedal feel. They basically set up a grinding mode between the rotor and the disc pad. Those who own or have owned a holden commodore will know that the rotor has to be replace when the pads are replaced. This is deliberate to make money.

I have also use greenline and other high performance pads in the past. They are low dust but the dust is corrosive when mixed with water if forms a chemical similar to caustic soda. Caustic soda eats aluminum (your wheels)

The choice is off course yours, you can buy expensive pads and drive with the comfort of knowing you paid a fortune for something that you think will stop better whilst damaging your mags or you can use a great pad with no dust that will stop your car as good as you are really ever likely to need.

On the other hand if you go out on race days etc you can change the pads on the day to a hard compound pad then change it back later, after all it only takes about 10 minutes to change them.

Chris

[Steve-B]

Good points, and again thank you for finding a low dust replacement.

[Steve-B]

hmmm, just doing abit of follow up on this subject.
from the dba catalogue it doesnt seem they do performance rotors, would the rotors they even have their fit on our hubs ? saying that the brakes might be the same as the volvo, but does that mean the hubs are as well ?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/devilrolla12345/Picture3-1.png

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/devilrolla12345/Picture4-1.png

[phul007]

I have used Pagid pads on my GSR and they were great, the only issue I had was when you tried to use them first thing when they were cold they wont work very well. You had to get used to giving them a heat up before you really wanted them to work. For a track day or when you are having some fun they are excellant pads.

[Steve-B]

yep. anyone have an idea about my thoughts ?

[Corosith]

yep. anyone have an idea about my thoughts ?


I did a google on S40 brakes and came up with the following packages (in US$) ranging from replacement two piece discs and caliper relocation brakets, to brembo slotted and drilled disc/caliper packages (prices vary due to size of different caliper ie. 4 spot, 6-spot, 8-spot etc), and lastly brembos own replacement disc/pad/SS brake line kit. They come with the 4 stud pattern so hopefully will fit our hubs, everything should fit fine if our brakes are the same as the S40!:p
The following is the link:http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/20A50532A1.aspx

[Steve-B]

that site only has s60 and v60, no s40 stuff..
but good point, i will google it...lol

[Corosith]

that site only has s60 and v60, no s40 stuff..
but good point, i will google it...lol

Correction, these brakes are for the s40, google volvo S40 brake kits and under this site "www.autoanything.com", it displays a whole plethora of gear for the S40, but if you try and search from within the site, S40 does not come up for some reason!

Try this link, as it displays all the gear for the S40 including the brakes!:)

http://www.autoanything.com/car/volvo/s40/95A1A25A2806.aspx

[Steve-B]

yep, i am on the same page as you, But, when you get to a product, like the ebc greenstuff pads, they dont stock them for the volvo s40. It may say they have products for the s40, but when you do the drop down for prices and to order them, they dont sell them for the s40.

[Steve-B]

hows this, and with the aussie dollar so high, they come in @ 1,795.99 USD = 1,945.04 AUD
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/wm.php/images/rotorafc4brakekit.jpg

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/4238_4862/products_id/21501

Rotora Front 2pc 13in Brake Kit 4piston Volvo S40 00-04

Made of billet aluminum alloy and CNC machined to ensure the highest quality; Rotora's high performance brake system enables superior brake modulation while improving overall pedal feel to ensure equal distribution of weight transfer when braking. To achieve this proportional front-to-rear brake bias, Rotoras opposing piston calipers are fine tuned by increasing the clamp load to the optimal level while utilizing the stock master cylinder to retain overall front-to-rear brake bias. Rotoras full big brake system design delivers excellent initial bite, exceptional modulation, and consistent pedal feel for street and track use applications. All systems are ABS compatible and direct bolt on replacement with minimal modifications required.

Features:
-Rotora billet aluminum alloy 4piston racing calipers with sequentially sized piston bore sizes engineered to each specific vehicle.
-Rotora billet aluminum hat with ?floating? disc assembly to reduce heat related stress and unsprung weight.
-Rotora 2 piece vented heat treated directional vane disc system to improve airflow/cooling under severe braking. Slotted or drilled & slotted oversize discs (330x30mm) to ensure equal heat dissipation and increase thermal capacity while relieving the disc and brake pad surface free of excess debris.
-Rotora ceramic formulated pads designed for extreme street and track application with high co-efficient of friction and high temperature fade resistance.
-Rotora DOT compliant stainless steel braided brake lines to improve stiffer pedal feel and prevent brake hose expansion.
-Rotora carbon steel (SC45) mounting brackets (depending on application) and hardware.

Options:
Color: Red or Metallic Blue
Rotor: Slotted or Drilled & Slotted

[Flipper]

I think you guys are overly optimistic to assume that just because the S40 pads happen to fit in the Colt calipers that an S40 brake kit will fit it. Does the Colt even have the same Lucas calipers as the S40?

[Steve-B]

dont burst my bubble flipper..lol. no idea mate, i know that the pads and calipers are the same as the s40. not sure on the disc's.
Anyone have the standard dimensions of the r-colts brakes / disc's..

[Flipper]

Are you sure it has the same calipers? The Volvo has Lucas.

[McCoy]

Just so you guys know the actual specs. (if you ever need spec info just ask)

Front 232mm diameter - 25.8mm thickness Model no. S4-S34P
Rear 200.6mm diameter - 10mm thickness

Personally I dont think you need a brake upgrade as the standard EVO 9 brakes are only 300m X 20mm thick, so having them 25.8 on the R-colt means they shouldnt warp given the low kerb weight of the car as compared to the hefty EVO. Overall diameter doesnt mean all that much, you should see the size of the group N gravel cars with 15" wheels. The brake diameter isnt huge, but the thickness is around 32mm with bigger vents between the disc to dissipate heat. Obviously the gravel cars have floating two piece dics for eve better removal of heat, BUT its the thickness which is of the great importance here.

So overall our brakes are more than decent from factory!

Front brake on R-colt:

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/Ralliartclub/calis.jpg

See the small lines ^ so unless your doing track work, probably no real need to change them either due to there size.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/Ralliartclub/brakes2.jpg

The splash guard ^ above that if removed would provide better cooling.

What I'd recommend is getting your OEM discs slotted (veins) adding some braided lines, getting a fancy brake fluid like a DOT 5.1 (motul IMO) then removing the disc covers behind the discs for extra cooling, then fitting some cooling ducts coming from the front of the car, through the plastic splash guard in the wheel well to the back of the discs would be very efficient. Then I'd be making sure I changed my pads to the ralliart pads.

Thats about as much as you'd need for track days etc...

Just my .02 cents

[Geo_x]

The front disc dimensions from the CZT is 280 x 26, which are the same as the S40's. So i think the Volvo brakes will not fit!

Are you sure the front brakes are so small? Our (CZT) rear discs (260 x 10) are bigger than your front! :confused:

[Steve-B]

i know these are 280, but would they fit ?
http://i3.ebayimg.com/03/i/06/05/c8/5d_1_b.JPG
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VOLVO-S40-S70-T4-TURBO-etc-Drilled-Grooved-Brake-Discs_W0QQitemZ290035062575QQihZ019QQcategoryZ2301 3QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[McCoy]

Are you sure the front brakes are so small? Our (CZT) rear discs (260 x 10) are bigger than your front! :confused:

I am positive. The Aussie spec brakes are exactly as I stated, and I have since measured and its spot on.

[Flipper]

Has anyone tried the Ralliart pads yet? Any feedback would be great.

[Macca]

there more to just size and stud pattern guys, the disk rotor will have an off set kinda like a cars wheel. then there will also be the size of the hole in the middle where it sits on the hub, there the thickness of the rotor too.

i really doubt the volvo items will bolt up.

And dont get cross drilled rotors, they are not as good, as the holes fill with dust become blocked and cause cracking.

[Corosith]

McCoy Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo_x
Are you sure the front brakes are so small? Our (CZT) rear discs (260 x 10) are bigger than your front!

I am positive. The Aussie spec brakes are exactly as I stated, and I have since measured and its spot on.

McCoy, how are you measuring your discs as I just measured mine and they pretty much match Geo-X's figures of 27.9cm for the front rotors and 24.9 for the rears? Anyway, I'm pretty sure our brakes were actually taken from the colt czt parts bin.

I'm also amazed at all the reviews quoting disc diameters of 15inch for the fronts and 14 for the rears - no where near the actual brake size!!!

[McCoy]

Coro, sorry the actual diameter is Front 282mm X 25.8mm and rear 250.6mm x 10. :confused: confused yet. I was talking in whats called "disc effective diameter" not over all diameter, sorry my bad I took off the 50mm difference in effective area as per the specs. So guys, if you are wanting actual dimensions of size its above ^ are true and correct. Been measured twice, both yesterday and today and they havent changed overnight. :p

Also to clear up more confusion, when manufacturer's quote 15" (381mm :eek: ) and 14" (355.60mm) inch brakes, they arent talking about the diameter of the brakes themselves guys, they are talking about the brakes to suit a 15" and 14" inch wheel respectively.

Think of EVO X for another example. MMC are quotng 18" (457.20mm :eek: :eek: ) front and 17" rear brakes, which is intresting considering the car has 18 wheels. So ether the car rolls on discs, or somthing else is implied. :rolleyes:

The size (when specified in inches in most cases) isnt denoting diameter of brakes but rather what size wheel it suits. Also Macca is right about offset, you might need to run a nut extension hub if you were to put on some big brakes. As for cross drilled, unless your talking a premium end disc, like a brembo, AP, harrop, endless etc... the cross drilled can develop heat fractures and cracks, but its not due to build of brake dust, its due to a combination of extreme heat, lower grade metals, and lousy manufacturing and CNC processes.

P.S. Pad thickness for our cars is 10.5mm on front, and 10mm on rear.

[Corosith]

Aaahh! I thought I was going crazy, well there you go, the brakes are in fact the same as the czt, therefore the same as the volvo S40 (supposedly). Still not sure on which parts are a direct replacement from the S40, maybe our Greek friends could enlighten us on what full brake kits including calipers or slotted/cross-drilled disc kits could be bolted straight on!:)

And McCoy you are most probably right about fitting larger calipers etc, I think if you fitted 6 pot caliper you'll probably end up flying through the front windscreen if not wearing a racing harness - in reality all I'm after are some quality slotted discs (larger if possible with standard caliper relocation brakets), decent all-rounder performance pads with no brake dust (not ones that take 3 laps of a race track to work!), braided lines and some decent hi-temp brake fluid.:D

[McCoy]

Coro, since the OEM discs are of the size they are, why not just get them slotted? I dont know if you have another car to tootle around in, but people like Ron Harrop will slot your OEM brakes. As for pads, and I know you have white wheels, so brake dust might be more of an issue for you, but have you considered ferodo DS2500? They do need to be warmed up, so everyday use means you need to be minful of warming them up. I'm not sure if they have sizes that fit, (havent bothered to reseacrh them, as I dont personally own an r-colt myself) and they are expensive <read VERY expensive> Otherwise you could go Hawk's, or RB74's and maybe red or green stuff's... then down the tree a bit further you could go for a bendix ultimate. (I'm not a fan though)

Braided lines should cost around $300ish then if you were to change fluids, you could use motul's DOT 5.1 which is about $16 per 500ml or go the full hog and get motul RBF 600 which is about $30 per 500ml :eek: (make sure when changing fluids you flush all the old stuff out, which will get expensive when using motul and if you arent familiar with changing brake fluid on an r-colt yet. Thats the only downside but doing all that would be well worth it, and you'd then have a brake system that could easily cope with track days and not be too stupid for everyday use.

[Steve-B]

The front brakes are an easy usual remove and replace,
The rears are quite a paint...UNLESS you have a 15mm spanner.
You cant remove the rear calipers without unbolting the rear handbrake cable from the arm and the caliper. Then you need 2 15mm's or a 15 and an adjustable.
If you have the 15mm and have changed brakes before thats fine. Also the rear brake piston you cant jam back in with a hand vice, you need long pin nose pliers and need to twist the piston from the inside clockwise til it gives and goes all the way back. Its all explained in the workshop manual, if you need a copy I have afew here.

[ob1tanobey]

The front brakes are an easy usual remove and replace,
The rears are quite a paint...UNLESS you have a 15mm spanner.
You cant remove the rear calipers without unbolting the rear handbrake cable from the arm and the caliper. Then you need 2 15mm's or a 15 and an adjustable.
If you have the 15mm and have changed brakes before thats fine. Also the rear brake piston you cant jam back in with a hand vice, you need long pin nose pliers and need to twist the piston from the inside clockwise til it gives and goes all the way back. Its all explained in the workshop manual, if you need a copy I have afew here.

u actually tried to change the rears pads? how long did it take? i just received my rear pads and got quoted $100 to change front and rear!!! i decided to do it myself... maybe i just do d front which is easier and the rear take it to the mechanics... seems hard to do the rear... without proper tools..

[alba]

u actually tried to change the rears pads? how long did it take? i just received my rear pads and got quoted $100 to change front and rear!!! i decided to do it myself... maybe i just do d front which is easier and the rear take it to the mechanics... seems hard to do the rear... without proper tools..

yeh the rear is some weird hex key bolt
i didnt bother and just took it to the mechainc to sort

[Ayu452]

all i remember the rears were a slut...and mine were pretty stiff to turn to get them to retract...i think 100$ is good price...
i think i fiddled wit the years for atleast a couple of hours

[alba]

all i remember the rears were a slut...and mine were pretty stiff to turn to get them to retract...i think 100$ is good price...
i think i fiddled wit the years for atleast a couple of hours

yeh i got mine up on the jack, took the wheels off, looked at the bolt and just went "fuck that"

had the right shaped bit but not the right size, left it to the shop

[JamesPH]

The single Torx bit will cost you less than $100. I've had mine off.

[Macca]

manual doesnt say anything about a bolt.

its says to remove handbrake cable and push piston in.

[Blaze]

When i replaced mine, i just yanked the handbrake cable and undid the bolts. Didnt get any tricky bolts

[alba]

ah ok
i have always removed calipers to do pads (way i was taught)

obviously you can just slip these ones out?

[ob1tanobey]

all i remember the rears were a slut...and mine were pretty stiff to turn to get them to retract...i think 100$ is good price...
i think i fiddled wit the years for atleast a couple of hours

so i keep hearing dat the rear is a bitch to change.... so i decided not to do it myself as i am lazy and proly don't have the proper tools. so after hearing ur stories about the rear, i tot dat 100 isn't so bad. so i decided to go get it done at any local brakes and tyre service. I went to NU TECH at Hoxton Park Rd. i was waiting at the reception, two workers saw me and they said "be there in a second mate". the guy continue making his coffee and conversation with the other guy. *waiting* 2mins later *waiting* 5 mins *waiting*... WTF?!?! So i just left, you just lost $100 dollars asswipe.

went to JAX, service straight away, "front n rear will be $60." I got wet and said "Do it"
1 hour later or more ahahahah, coz they had some other cars to do, it was finish. Guy says, "Took a while because we had a bit of trouble with the rear brakes..... hard to get it out.... " I said "ah ok, sorry, mitsubishi man." he smiles. I said thanks and off I went.

I thought to myself, "Man my wheels are so dirty, I want to test if it is low dust as GSL says it is." So I went to my local hand car wash because my wheels haven't been cleaned for months! I didn't want to do any hard cleaning n scrubbing. My wheels were so black! wasn't funny. half hour later and a cup of mocha and $15, the wheels were sparkling. i have forgotten how nice it looks when cleaned. Got home and applied wheel protectant on the wheels... I wonder how long the sparkles will last.....

[odysseyesm]

so i keep hearing dat the rear is a bitch to change.... so i decided not to do it myself as i am lazy and proly don't have the proper tools. so after hearing ur stories about the rear, i tot dat 100 isn't so bad. so i decided to go get it done at any local brakes and tyre service. I went to NU TECH at Hoxton Park Rd. i was waiting at the reception, two workers saw me and they said "be there in a second mate". the guy continue making his coffee and conversation with the other guy. *waiting* 2mins later *waiting* 5 mins *waiting*... WTF?!?! So i just left, you just lost $100 dollars asswipe.

went to JAX, service straight away, "front n rear will be $60." I got wet and said "Do it"
1 hour later or more ahahahah, coz they had some other cars to do, it was finish. Guy says, "Took a while because we had a bit of trouble with the rear brakes..... hard to get it out.... " I said "ah ok, sorry, mitsubishi man." he smiles. I said thanks and off I went.

I thought to myself, "Man my wheels are so dirty, I want to test if it is low dust as GSL says it is." So I went to my local hand car wash because my wheels haven't been cleaned for months! I didn't want to do any hard cleaning n scrubbing. My wheels were so black! wasn't funny. half hour later and a cup of mocha and $15, the wheels were sparkling. i have forgotten how nice it looks when cleaned. Got home and applied wheel protectant on the wheels... I wonder how long the sparkles will last.....

LOL - you "Got Wet".... That's a fair bit of excitement over some brake pads... Still, it is a good price!

[ob1tanobey]

brakes feels spongy? doesn't feel as hard as the original.