Tha deal is done - it's on the way to SA...

[odysseyesm]

Watch this space, just put the order in for a s/h White Rcolt from QLD through my broker here in SA.

Apparently it's a stocker (50k's) except for an in dash GPS/DVD/CD touchscreen set-up. It gets loaded on a truck this wed/thurs and hopefully in my hot little hands by Tuesday 1 march.

I'm already looking to mod it and I've never even driven one yet.....:D

[Zadok]

Haha congrats mate I hope it all goes well. I'm sure you will be very happy with the car, it's a lot of fun even without mods.

If you are looking for some cheap power I'd suggest getting the YR Advance solenoid from lovecolt and K&N panel filter from Mitsiman (RPW).

[ELEGNT]

congrats mate:D

[odysseyesm]

Haha congrats mate I hope it all goes well. I'm sure you will be very happy with the car, it's a lot of fun even without mods.

If you are looking for some cheap power I'd suggest getting the YR Advance solenoid from lovecolt and K&N panel filter from Mitsiman (RPW).


Hhmmmm, you guys aren't helping....;)

What's this YR solenoid do? Never heard of it b4....
The first thing on the list was going to be the RPW zorst from the Turbo back - any thoughts?

Thx guys.

[bunnybash]

zorst is awesome... i was their test pilot and love it... you are lucky, there might be an ECU crack on the horizon soon... some of us have been waiting for 2 years for ecu crack and some have been waiting 3-4 years!!!!!

[ommeh]

Turbo back exhaust is good. You can get a Custom FMIC or do some reading on the forum to see how people have done there setups. The YR-Solenoid is the Boost Solenoid that controls boost and getting it will allow you to increase boost. That is also a good upgrade. Also if you want you can run a K&N Panel or Ralliart Panel fliter. These are all good upgrades to go for :)

Goodluck with the modding!

Heres some inspiration for you to get started :)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2604/4146899575_4ddef1278e_b.jpg

[Macca]

Congrats on the buy!

[lovecolt]

You might not have test driven one before, but we can ensure you that you will not regret it :D

Welcome to the family :)

[odysseyesm]

Turbo back exhaust is good. You can get a Custom FMIC or do some reading on the forum to see how people have done there setups. The YR-Solenoid is the Boost Solenoid that controls boost and getting it will allow you to increase boost. That is also a good upgrade. Also if you want you can run a K&N Panel or Ralliart Panel fliter. These are all good upgrades to go for :)

Goodluck with the modding!

Heres some inspiration for you to get started :)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2604/4146899575_4ddef1278e_b.jpg


Mate... Is there anything you haven't touched on that!!:eek:
Piccys from start to finish are crazy... Nice work.

How's it go now?

[underdog]

Gday mate, welcome to the club, its geting to be exclusive, youll definitely enjoy the ride & soon some of Tommys [ommeh] passion will infect you like everyone else :) .

[rcolt1645]

a fully modded ride, looks awesome........

[ommeh]

Mate... Is there anything you haven't touched on that!!:eek:
Piccys from start to finish are crazy... Nice work.

How's it go now?

Def more to come :)

Just stay tuned for some pure rcolt ownage >8)

She goes really well. I took on a mate in a Alfa 147GTA - V6 + exhaust (controlled enviroment) and I pulled away from him. I think shes doing about 120kwatw but i want more more more :D

[odysseyesm]

Speaking of modified Colts, has anyone seen this thing b4?
It's over in Finland somewhere.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjD6WQ8zsHw&feature=related

500+hp and 600+Nm AWD rocketship, there's a few snips of it in the snow as well.... Awesome machine :eek:

[Macca]

Alfa's are slow and crap so that doesnt count Ommeh!

[odysseyesm]

NOT HAPPY JAN!!!

Bloody rain up in QLD delayed the loading of the car onto the truck....
Won't be ready to pick up until Friday now - at least I can keep looking for more goodies in the meantime.

[Zadok]

That sucks mate. Yeah it has been raining very heavily here for the last few days with some flash flooding here on the Sunshine Coast.

[odysseyesm]

Well I finally pick up the new ride tomorrow....
Turns out that the flooding in QLD was bad enough that the car had to taken of the truck and loaded onto the train.
So a couple of days lost dicking around there and then a bit of mucking around down here due to the public holiday and getting it registered blah, blah...
It's here and I pick it up tomorrow.

White, 06 update, service history and it's got an Eonon touchscreen set-up apparently.
I still haven't driven one yet.... But I'm confident it'll be a hoot.It's got shit tyres on it though - Kumho Solus pov pack I think? Wait and see how good/bad they are. It's a daily not a race track car so it won't be too bad.... I hope.

[kalt]

Well I finally pick up the new ride tomorrow....
Turns out that the flooding in QLD was bad enough that the car had to taken of the truck and loaded onto the train.
So a couple of days lost dicking around there and then a bit of mucking around down here due to the public holiday and getting it registered blah, blah...
It's here and I pick it up tomorrow.

White, 06 update, service history and it's got an Eonon touchscreen set-up apparently.
I still haven't driven one yet.... But I'm confident it'll be a hoot.It's got shit tyres on it though - Kumho Solus pov pack I think? Wait and see how good/bad they are. It's a daily not a race track car so it won't be too bad.... I hope.

Man, flooding in QLD, then storms in Vic - hope your car avoided both!

The tires can make or brake (pun intended) the car. As long as you don't understeer into corners and fishtaiil when you brake, they're okay. The AD07's have been brilliant.

[odysseyesm]

Well finally got the car and actually drove one for the first time... what can I say.... They are The Shit.

Quite like the surge around 3000rpm and the handling. Think I'm gunna have to drop some kgs though.... those seat bases are a bit narrow IMO...

The tyres it came with (Kumho Solus KH15) are pretty average. Strange feeling to have the front end understeering under power with minimal body roll. It also seems to lose some of it's urge close to the redline? I'll need to check out the state of the air filter I think, unless that's how they all are?
Bloody easy to exceed the speed limit.... Blat in 1st and 2nd and ur there.

The wife took it for a spin and took off in 3rd gear, then tried to find 2nd but hit 4th and it didn't stall. Just burbled off up the road with no driveline snatch at all - Quite impressive I reckon.

Also think I'll need to replace the discs and pads - the discs are pretty worn and scored but they still work fine. Any suggestions regarding pads? My main issue with pads would be dust and sqealing. I'm not doing any track work just some 'spirited' road stuff - all within the law of course. So I don't need race spec stuff.
Very happy with the purchase

[fauxpas]

Well finally got the car and actually drove one for the first time... what can I say.... They are The Shit.

Quite like the surge around 3000rpm and the handling. Think I'm gunna have to drop some kgs though.... those seat bases are a bit narrow IMO...

Good one... Good you got a quick one as there are some lemons out there with putrid pickup...


The tyres it came with (Kumho Solus KH15) are pretty average.

The stock AD07s were simply great... I believe the KU36s are comparable for around $150 a hoop...


The wife took it for a spin and took off in 3rd gear, then tried to find 2nd but hit 4th and it didn't stall. Just burbled off up the road with no driveline snatch at all - Quite impressive I reckon.

Yes, the modern turbo car isn't that gutless down low anymore...


Also think I'll need to replace the discs and pads - the discs are pretty worn and scored but they still work fine. Any suggestions regarding pads? My main issue with pads would be dust and sqealing. I'm not doing any track work just some 'spirited' road stuff - all within the law of course. So I don't need race spec stuff.
Very happy with the purchase

The stock pads squeal after some heavy duty work but are OK going to work and back... If you aren't tracking it I'd price a stock set...

[lovecolt]

Told you that you wouldn't regret it :)




Also think I'll need to replace the discs and pads - the discs are pretty worn and scored but they still work fine. Any suggestions regarding pads? My main issue with pads would be dust and sqealing. I'm not doing any track work just some 'spirited' road stuff - all within the law of course. So I don't need race spec stuff.
Very happy with the purchase

I'm not surprised about the disc/pads. The stock disc is soft as and the pads will eat through it. Its the first time i see a stock pad outlast a stock disc.

You can either go through GSL our sponsor for some bang for buck aussie made pads, or i can sell you my brand new set of stock front pads (for cheap) that's just collecting dust as i never get to fit it on before i do a evo 3 brake conversion.

[Corosith]

I'm glad your are over the moon with your purchase, they really are a great handling car for the money.

The colt runs quite rich at high rpm which seems to dull the response a bit, but that doesn't bother me too much as I'd rather ride on the wave of mid-range torque than wring its neck out to 6000rpm (my colt is running higher boost than stock). Also maybe contact site sponsor GSL Rallysports regarding brake pads and see what they can recommend for your application (yes, the stock pads are bloody dusty).

Don't stick cheap crappy tyres on the colt as they really are a key aspect to the great handling of this little car. As Fauxpas mentioned a few guys are trying out the KU36 as a replacement for the stock Yokohama AD07's as they seem to get a good wrap on various forums and are very cheap for a quality tyre (google "Option 1" for some great prices). The KH15's are meant to be an original equipment replacement tyre (read very ordinary handling but good tread wear), versus being a performance tyre. The original yokohamas weren't a true semi-slick, but a tyre that sits somewhere between a semi and the top of range road performance tyre, hence the great handling straight from the factory.:)

[Macca]

As mentioned Tyres can make or break the colt, Your are rather shit tires.

For brakes The stock pads are awesome pads but super dusty and chew the hell out of rotors 2 set of pads with machining between and the will be thinner than the minimum thickness.

I would replace the pads with some HPX or A1RM pads from the sponsor mentioned above and get the current rotors machined

also glad you like it.

yes the top end feels weaker compared to the area of 3000 to 5000 rpm

I have tried both lower rpm and higher rpm on the track and the lower was much better

[odysseyesm]

Like it? I fucking love it!!

Getting more and more impressed the more I drive it...
I think that from I've read about the RPW exhaust it would suit me down to the ground.
If the reports are true then the revs at which boost starts to kick in drops by 500rpm it would keep it on boost better between gear changes. When you give it the berries it seems to drop off boost by around 500rpm @ each change.
First turbo car for me - so I gues that's what they call lag :(

Have been looking at the QFM HPX - used QFM pads on another car and was impressed with the price/quality etc & they're an Oz company to boot.

What's feedback on an RPW system?
Get the whole thing from the snail back or is the best bang 4 $$ just the cat back system?

Tyre wise, I'm looking at trying the Achilles 123 jobbie - Heard good reports from a few peeps. The guys at Wheelworx (Adelaide) reckon they're excellent value considering the performance and my broker has them on his track car.
Any thoughts?

Thx to all replying.

[bunnybash]

I was the test car for the whole thing from RPW... get the down and dump and catback... it's all worth it... it actually lowers the boost but makes more power... so they what you do is order the Boost controller from Daedel (he has figured out how to do it without CEL and boost cuts) and whack that in... that gets you the option for HOLY SHIT boost (15psi solid from 2200rpm to red line) or thrifty drive (only goes to 7psi till around 4000rpm then hops on over to 15psi)...

So you can still drive without spinning wheels etc for granny time... and then you can go bait Falcodores etc on the Holy Shit setting!! :)

That is what i would do, and i reckon all that will be under $1000 fitted... PM Daedelujusic or whatever his full forum name is (matt is much easier!!!)

[Corosith]

Regarding the Achilles 123 tyres, looks like they are a competitor to the ku36 and ad07's, but not really a true semi-slick (a cross-over tyre between semis and a high performance street tyre). Hadn't even heard of them up until now, but I did a bit of digging and it seems they are a relatively new tyre on the market that has come from Indonesian manufacturer MASA. They are used in different racing categories including Honda Jazz production car racing and endurance racing (they are a medium to hard comound with very stiff sidewalls). Might be worth a try, at least they come in the right size whereas the ku36 is a bit wider.

[odysseyesm]

So Daed's Boost mod has two settings? That would a great set-up I reckon - sounds like he knows his shit.

I think the process will be zorst first, then boost goodies and lastly the tyres - by then the stock rubbish will be well and truly fried methinks :P.

Wheelworx quoted $190 ea for the Achilles - I'll wait and see if my broker can get them cheaper and let you guys know.

[Macca]

I wouldnt touh them just cause of the brand name lol

[fauxpas]

I thought achilles were one of those generic named el-cheapo tyres...

[odysseyesm]

Found an interesting thing fitted to the car tonight...

Looks like the previous owner had a bit of fun with the boost solenoid. He's got another solenoid that looks exactly the same and attached it near the original with some sort of an extra red coloured plastic fitting on it. I'm thinking it might be a solenoid from an Evo or something. I took some photos tonight and they're not bad but doesn't show a heap of detail.
I'll upload them soon.

I dunno why he's left the original in place as he's removed the loom plug and plugged it into the new solenoid and taped the old one up. Then he's looped a piece of pipe over the stock outlets to keep it clean. Must be an OEM Mitsubishi solenoid for it to fit into the original loom though - interesting.

[Blaze]

That sounds like it might be the YR solenoid.

[Zadok]

It's likely a YR-Advance solenoid. They look exactly the same as the stock solenoid but the numbers on top of the solenoid are smudged and they can be run using either a red or blue hose (or do as I have done and just run using the stock black hose). The solenoid safely lifts boost by a couple of psi (red hose is about 1-2psi, blue about 2-3psi, and stock black pipe gives you about 3-4psi increase).

[odysseyesm]

Really, how exciting.... No wonder it felt a bit quicker than what people seemed to be saying it would be on here.

So if I pull the red hose off and just connect up the black rubber hose only I'll get an extra couple of PSI?
I'd be very happy if that's the case. Sounds like the previous owner might've been on here.
The car is an 06 first regd in 08, White and was from QLD originally, has had a touchscreen DVD/GPS etc set-up installed with sound proofing in the floor and doors. It was stock other than the YR installed and the old QLD rego was 953 KZA.
Anyone know of it?

Why wouldn't the dude just put the YR one in and remove the stocker so that it looks like an OEM fit?
Can't see how Mitsubishi would know much about it if there was ever a warranty claim.

[underdog]

Gday, maybe just lazy, or couldnt be bothered!!!Enjoy the freebies you got with it:)

[Macca]

Yup that's the yr noide.

I run with just the black home and I'm getting a peak if 16psi

[odysseyesm]

So I pulled that red tube off the YR solenoid and took it for a bit of a fat down to get some pizza.
FMD there's a bit of difference.... not a bad little mod really.

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the stock solenoid with the pill removed and the YR Solenoid running with the black hose? Seems like they are the same thing unless there's some internal mods or it's a different spec altogether....

[Zadok]

From what I've read they give similar results, however pill removal tends to cause the boost to spike a few psi and not be quite as smooth in delivery, whereas the YR solenoid retains the stock curve and doesn't spike :)

[odysseyesm]

From what I've read they give similar results, however pill removal tends to cause the boost to spike a few psi and not be quite as smooth in delivery, whereas the YR solenoid retains the stock curve and doesn't spike :)

You still got your car Z?
Or is my car your old one?

But yeh, took it for a fang this morning up near Coro's place and it's very strong in the midrange now. V similar to the stock set-up just stronger :D

Stacks of brake fade tho.... ordered some discs and pads from GSL and they didnt have the HPX in stock so they sent some pov pads to tie me over until the HPX get stocked - should b here ne day now.....

V Happy with the service from GSL, def recommend to anyone else :)

Mods so far:
RPW Cat back
YR with black pipe
RDA non grooved
QFM HPX
Touch screen DDin stereo setup

[Zadok]

Yeah I've still got my car mate, and never did the pill removal, but got the YR Advance solenoid instead for the reasons I posted above :). Glad you're enjoying it mate, the car is great fun.

[Corosith]

odysseyesm

But yeh, took it for a fang this morning up near Coro's place and it's very strong in the midrange now. V similar to the stock set-up just stronger

Stacks of brake fade tho.... ordered some discs and pads from GSL and they didnt have the HPX in stock so they sent some pov pads to tie me over until the HPX get stocked - should b here ne day now.....

V Happy with the service from GSL, def recommend to anyone else


I'm spoilt for choice regarding good driving roads - not good for brakes though!:)

[odysseyesm]

I know I've been harping on about these cars but I'm amazed at the performance available for the money. The look on people's faces when you just walk away from their so-called powerful cars at the lights, on the hwy, up hills etc is priceless. They just assume that it's a little hairdressers car - cops don't even look twice at it..... happy days.

Mods I've got so far:

K&N filter
YR solenoid running the black pipe
RPW catback
HPX pads and RDA (not grooved) discs

The drivability is sensational IMO - great torque and midrange power you just don't need to flog the shit out of it.
The only fault I've found so far is the quality of tyre is critical and the noisy clutch/gearbox is a bit off putting.... Still works fine but :D

[odysseyesm]

Got my first CEL last night....

I removed some of the IC pipework at the front to get at the now unused stock solenoid and fit the YR in the OEM spot. Triple checked all the connections and all good. I also took the battery out to check the air filter but refit it all same as before.
Took the car for a drive up the F1. I was doing 100 up the hill in 5th and after reading some of the posts on here it sounds like if the Colt gets boosted and it gets laboured in a high gear then a CEL is more likely - thoughts?

The car did the usual thing by the sounds of it..... Boost slowly being trimmed back by the ECU, eventually get the 4K rev cut - but no CEL. So I pull into Blackwood HJ's and disconnect the battery to see if it'll reset.
Reconnect the battery & start it back up again and I get a CEL but didn't have the 4K rev cut and doesn't seem to be limiting boost.... WTF?
Got home and cycled the ignition and no more CEL.
Started normally and drove to work this morning (35k trip) and no probs..... No CEL, no rev cut and I don't think that boost is being limited.....
I ordered a Scangauge today so when I get it I'll plug it in and see what it says.

Did find some other interesting things out: I don't actually have a K&N and the HPX pads are shit IMO.... bulk fade.
I thought it might be the fluid but when the stock pads & discs were on everything worked fine on the same stretch of road - emailed GSL today to see what they suggest.
Gunna chat to the dealer about the absence of the K&N...

Watch this space.

[odysseyesm]

About the brakes...

Turns out that it's prolly the fluid. Spoke to Greg at GSL and he recommends to change the fluid if the problemis a soft spongy pedal; A rock hard pedal with no braking power is pad related where as spongy pedal is fluid related. I was going to get the fluid bled anyway to make sure 'cause the is effectively 4yrs old and i don't know the history of when it was changed last.

Apparently if you put in good quality pads/discs and there's still a problem the problem will just move to the next weakest link.... the fluid. GSL recommend TRW GP600 Dot 4 Racing Brake Fluid. I'll get some of that and see how i go.
Guys (Greg) at GSL were V helpful :)


Got my scangauge yesterday. Got it from Wooders garage in Hornsby NSW for $200 delivered. Next day delivery to Adelaide in my case - V Happy. Plugged it in and checked the code - P1235. haven't looked it up yet, but I still haven't got another CEL since the first one the other night.

[Macca]

I got the fluid from Greg in my car.

TRW GP600 very nice fluid on the track.

But my car took 2L to flush the whole system!

I bought 3L off him so the extra L will be used to small flushes to get the crap from just the end of the line after track days.

Not cheap thou buying 3L at like $60+ per L

[odysseyesm]

Got some new hoops on yesterday afternoon - KU31 205/45-16 to replace the KH16 that were on it when I got it.
Man those KH16's were shit....

Onlly had the KU31's on for a little bit and I'm very happy with them so far - stacks more grip than B4. Nothing high speed yet or in the wet but I'll post up my thoughts on the tyres.

Also fitted the new HPX pads front and rear - I'll see if it improves things and get rid of the brake fade. I'm not confident but I'll go through the motions to see what pans out. If this doesn't work it's down to the Mitsubishi dealer and put the stock pads back in. apart from the dust I think they are sensational value.

[odysseyesm]

Well, didn't have any success with the HPX pads - I didn't really like them for the riving I do. I dunno if there's a problem somewhere else in the system or not but I'm back to the stock pads and skimmed discs - No fade at all.

One thing I will say is that Greg at GSL did everything possible to help over the phone and via email. I'd have no hesitation in recommending him to other members out there - very good service.

[Zadok]

If you don't mind me asking, how much did the stock pads cost you mate?

[odysseyesm]

$123 rrp from Agostinos Mitsubishi @ Nailsworth, Adelaide - I managed to get trade price which was $113.

Even the spares guy was shocked, most Ralliart pads are around $700 apparently.
If anyone is getting dearer quotes than that for genuine ur getting ripped.

[Macca]

$123 rrp from Agostinos Mitsubishi @ Nailsworth, Adelaide - I managed to get trade price which was $113.

Even the spares guy was shocked, most Ralliart pads are around $700 apparently.
If anyone is getting dearer quotes than that for genuine ur getting ripped.

Thats cause other ralliart cars use brembo pads.

Techincally they are not ralliart they are a Lucus or pagid pad.

there are ralliart made pads, they are white in colour and seen on the ralliart catalogue.

Oh and our car uses brakes from a Volvo infact!

[Zadok]

Ok cheers mate. I've got HPX on mine at the moment, but if they aren't as good as stock I'll likely swap back to the stock pads at some point :)

[odysseyesm]

Thats cause other ralliart cars use brembo pads.

Techincally they are not ralliart they are a Lucus or pagid pad.

there are ralliart made pads, they are white in colour and seen on the ralliart catalogue.

Oh and our car uses brakes from a Volvo infact!


Anyone know which Volvo?

If I can get the sizes of the disc then I can get custom made cheaper than the Mitsubishi price.
The RDA replacement rotors are a few mm smaller in dia so the mitsubishi pads hang over the edge by a couple of mm.
So far the leading contender for replacement discs is from a Kia Optima - 20thou difference in the offset for the 'hat' portion of the disc though.

[Corosith]

From the S40 I believe, 278mm disc, pretty sure we've been over this in one of the brake threads but hadn't really followed it up. There could potentially be many european aftermarket brake kits and discs that we aly our hands on, maybe even some big caliper kits.

[Macca]

V40 S40 but they are 5 stud cars we have different rotors to them.

rda ones are not a few mm maybe one mm

check my dual pot thread for side by side pics

a few guys are using them.

[odysseyesm]

V40 S40 but they are 5 stud cars we have different rotors to them.

rda ones are not a few mm maybe one mm

check my dual pot thread for side by side pics

a few guys are using them.

The RDA discs I have from GSL are a few mm different side by side with the factory discs.
The mitsi pads are hanging over the edge of the RDA discs by at least a mm so dia wise that's more than a mm in my book.

I can get discs without holes so I can drill whatever hole # & PCD I want.

[Macca]

strange, most people haven't had issues.

[Corosith]

V40 S40 but they are 5 stud cars we have different rotors to them.

rda ones are not a few mm maybe one mm

check my dual pot thread for side by side pics

a few guys are using them.

The older S40 had 4 studs as per this ebay listing:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VOLVO-S40-S70-T4-TURBO-etc-Drilled-Grooved-Brake-Discs-/290373068932?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item439b956884

Also just looked up Brembo, and they make slotted 4 stud discs for the S40, just not sure about the width of the colt discs compared to 24mm on the Brembos.

http://bremboaftermarket.com/En/Car_BremboMax/Catalogue_Detail.aspx?ModelIDMaster=32127

[Corosith]

Just wondering how your KU31's are going, any abnormal wear or reports on how well they do or don't grip?(still 100% better than what you had):)

[odysseyesm]

Yep going good compared to the old ones but now all I do is just keep going till these understeer as well... 1000% better in the wet but.
V happy for price - I can feel the back wheel lifting off the ground in corners so they doin OK!

It never ends does it???
Probably end up getting some KU36's next but I suspect that it'll be the same story...

I just picked up some 06 rims with some AD07's last night on fleabay - $113!! Tyres are a bit worn - two are legal not sure about the others but for $113 who cares.
Gunna get 'em painted matt black or that JDM gold/bronze colour or maybe white??? Choices, choices...

I picked them up this afternoon. They are off a white Colt, apparently one of Hendos mates who saw his mallala stunt and decided to sell up - didn't want to track their Colt after seeing that. The car had a TMR sticker on it rg XRA 600 or somthing?

[odysseyesm]

Put in one of the J mans Rollstoppers last night.

Just like Coros car with the addition of the Beatrush jobbie the level of NVH has gone up noticably. There is an increase in vibration around 1000rpm but I wouldn't call it a showstopper.
There's also increased transmission noise when you lift the throttle - more whining transferred through to the cabin - I also wouldn't call it obtrusive, you can't hear it with the radio on at normal levels you wouldn't be able to detect any difference.

Early days yet but i don't think it does anything to improve the gearshift or clutch action. I can't see how it wouold either as the gearshift is cable and the clutch is hydraulic - no mechanical linkage.

What it does do is stiffen up the front end - much better feel about what's happening on the road. Turn in is improved as well as understeer being reduced. I think that it is easier to buzz the front left (reduced traction) from the lights but then I haven't played with the tyre pressures yet.

As a baseline for others:
Suspension on my car is stock
I run KU31's on the standard 06 rims - Tyre pressures are 42 front & 38 rear.
TMR air filter
YR solenoid with the black pipe
RPW Catback
JamesPH rollstopper.

The only thing I would advise is that in the fitting instructions it says to do up the bolt through to the chassis first. I think that the first bolt you should get started is the one going into the alloy engine/GB case.
It's a shitload easier to stuff up the thread in the alloy than the steel one.

My advice:
Get the Rollstopper in there but not lined up to the rear most (chassis) bolt hole. That way you've got some wiggle room when you have to rock the engine to get the bolt started in the (front) alloy bolthole. Once it's started (not tightened) get the chassis (rear) bolt in and tighten them all (3 bolts) up to the correct torque.

[Macca]

Umm a cable is a mechanical linkage.

I have no idea how the clutch can feel smoother, thats strange, unless its to do with a twist on the motor that happens when engaging the clutch.

The gear shift is obvious and the moving engine transfers down the cable to the shifts and you can feel the motor moving on the the shifter.

[odysseyesm]

Umm a cable is a mechanical linkage.

I have no idea how the clutch can feel smoother, thats strange, unless its to do with a twist on the motor that happens when engaging the clutch.

The gear shift is obvious and the moving engine transfers down the cable to the shifts and you can feel the motor moving on the the shifter.

How's it obvious?

In my books a mechanical linkage is a bunch of rods, pins and pivot points not cables running in teflon lined, flexible guides.

[Macca]

I mean in other cars, you can feel the engine twisting and moving the gear shift around, I test drove a Pug 206 GTI and every time you backed of the gear stick move an in forward and aft. its good to see this is being eliminated with the brace.

A cable down a tube is just a flexible rod, your not changing from one type of mediums to another like the clutch where a mechanical force is turned into a hydraulic pressure, which is then later turned back into mechanical force again.

[Corosith]

I have to agree that the gearshift does fell more positive, you can snick into each gear more easily, probably has something to do with less overall movement of the drivetrain.

[koshy]

I picked them up this afternoon. They are off a white Colt, apparently one of Hendos mates who saw his mallala stunt and decided to sell up - didn't want to track their Colt after seeing that. The car had a TMR sticker on it rg XRA 600 or somthing?

yeh thats morph, and nope he didn't sell his colt due to the mallala stunt hahaha he sold it to buy a
EVO 7.

[odysseyesm]

I have to agree that the gearshift does fell more positive, you can snick into each gear more easily, probably has something to do with less overall movement of the drivetrain.

Maybe it's different on a lowered car? I didn't really feel much difference to be honest.

That being said, the more I drive with it fitted the happier I am with it. The reduction in understeer is quite noticeable - good value for money mod IMO.
I kinda like the 'racy' feel of hearing the box, the turbo spool etc
Noise wise - If I wind the window down a bit you can't hear any noise.
I've been driving around with everything off and window up to hear the difference. It isn't loud, just different.

[JamesPH]

Strange to hear you're noticing differences in handling odysseyesm... Sure you didn't tighten something else up while you were under there? :P

Glad you're enjoying it.


James

[odysseyesm]

I'm wondering why it does reduce understeer - I can't see how it would... I was looking at the way the Beatrush strengthening ribs run, not the way I'd expect them to, maybe that's a bit of a hint.
Regardless, I'm happy.

[odysseyesm]

Still very happy with the JamesPH Rollstopper much reduced understeer.
I'm starting agree with Coro etc about the better operation of the clutch/gearbox. I realised today that I've only heard the clutch 'take-up' sqeeal once or twice since installing it.... There you go.

I've also gotta say that it seems like the addition of the catback system seems to be picking up more power. I have added the TMR filter panel in soon after the zorst but I wouldn't have thought that the filter would change the power that much?
I read elsewhere that someone mentioned adding the TMR rear muffler increased power after about 500k's. Maybe the ECU isn't as snotty as we think in the long term - just has a tanty over big changes in a short period of time?

Anyway, roll-on with the reflash pls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[something]

I have added the TMR filter panel ...

Is this the Ralliart filter panel?

[odysseyesm]

Yep - that's the one.

[odysseyesm]

Have managed to find some Ralliart goodies for the car.
Some of the anti-lift lower front bushes and some strut tops. Tried to get hold of the rear upper shock mount bushes but there's none in existance apparently...

http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/?action=view&current=P1020468.jpg
http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/?action=view&current=P1020469.jpg

Now I just gotta fit them.
Anyone got any tips for replacing the strut tops DIY stylie?

Anyone know what this says? http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1020474.jpg
It came in the box.

[Corosith]

It says - http:/s1038.photobucket.com/albums/...... .seriously, sure you have posted the correct third pic link? Maybe we could do a combined fit out on weekend, mind you all I have is a new windscreen banner and some hi-temp paint for my bonnet grill how hard could it be (pool resources)

[odysseyesm]

Well, the clutch is starting to slip again. Took about 200 more kliks before slipping since the last time...
Booked in for a change next Tuesday.

It only slips under boost in the high gears but it's the start of a sad story methinks.
Anyways, when it's in I'll post up a review.

[DamoMcTitz]

my clutch always seems a bit funny after an evo cruise ;) going through it right now. - a little bit grabby ?!??

[Corosith]

Thinking that next pay I should set aside a clutch kit from Kenobi considering the very reasonable pricing. Aside from the noise everthing seems fine with my clutch atm. Let us know how much it ends up costing/venue, will be interesting to see the condition of the clutch and if there is some uneven wear that plagued some colts.

[odysseyesm]

Nah - Mine's never been grabby.
Feels perfectly OK until it hits boost in a high gear.

I'll be getting the bits from my mechanic and taking them down to Extreme to see if they can re-co it into something a bit tougher.
We might be able to get some RColt clutch exchange programme going perhaps - Or just give Kenobi a bell.

[Corosith]

Does your clutch start to feel like it's going when outside temps start to get pretty high, don't know if I'm imagining things but on full boost today i thought I could feel it slip momentarily, either that or left my foot on the clutch even so slightly??

[odysseyesm]

Nah - does it first thing in the morning around 6.30.
Once it starts doing it I just put the bowling hat on the back shelf and tootle along :(

I know what u mean about the foot resting on the edge of the pedal tho. Only have to push the pedal about 10mm I reckon b4 the thing starts to slip a bit.
I'll be interested 2c if the new clutch is the same.

[DamoMcTitz]

the free play of a good clutch in a mitsi is usually 1-2mm IMO. anything more is partial engage. foot shouldnt be resting anywhere near the clutch ;)

[Corosith]

Was wearing work boots at the time so there's not much room down there (my excuse anyway!);)

[odysseyesm]

Picking up my modfied OEM springs today. $83pr for re-setting to a 20mm lower ride height than stock - same reduction in ride height as the TMR springs but I don't know what/or if there's a difference in the spring rates of the TMR springs.
Industrial springs in Radelaide can also powdercoat to whatever colour you desire but I just got them dipped in black paint to stay with the 'sleeper' look.

Got quoted $300 to install my Ralliart anti-lift bushes, Ralliart Strut tops and springs by Wheelworx. I reckon that's a pretty good price. Won't be able to do it until next month tho cause the clutch replacement is costing around $500 for fitting...

I hate cars... I swore to go away from this shit and stick with factory spec cardigan mobiles.... Oh well, you get that..... :)

[Corosith]

I hate cars... I swore to go away from this shit and stick with factory spec cardigan mobiles.... Oh well, you get that..... :)

Haha - think I'm in the same boat too, I guess it keep us out of trouble.:) That's great pricing re the fitting of all that gear, let me know how your reset springs go as I might just head down that path too.

[odysseyesm]

Got some new hoops on yesterday afternoon - KU31 205/45-16 to replace the KH16 that were on it when I got it.
Man those KH16's were shit....

Onlly had the KU31's on for a little bit and I'm very happy with them so far - stacks more grip than B4. Nothing high speed yet or in the wet but I'll post up my thoughts on the tyres.

Also fitted the new HPX pads front and rear - I'll see if it improves things and get rid of the brake fade. I'm not confident but I'll go through the motions to see what pans out. If this doesn't work it's down to the Mitsubishi dealer and put the stock pads back in. apart from the dust I think they are sensational value.

So after about 6mths & 20,000klms I've just rotated the KU31's.
Pretty happy with the gripso far. There's a corner I test tyres on near work and the KH16s could only manage 80k's around the 90deg corner, the Ku31's can cope with over 100k's without crossing the centreline. Also had some experience with the TCL on the same corner. There was some mud on the exit due roadworks etc nearby and the car went into some nice comfortable oversteer. I'm thinking to myself that the handling was nice and predictable when all of a sudden the the TCL kicked in and ruined the fun...
Not only that, I ended up partly on the wrong side of the road because the TCL chopped the throttle and brakes. Next time I'll turn it off....

Anyways back to the tyres, the front left is just about down to the indicator bars and the front right is not that far behind it. The rears are practically new as you can still just read the Kumho logo on the centre line tread. They are good in the wet I think although I've never experienced KU36's or the AD07's... :( so I can't compare personally.
The dudes at Wheelworx also reckon the Achilles 123 are stupid value for money. Apparently they have customers who buy stacks of them to drift in cause they have sensational grip for the money although they don't last long. In a 205/45-16 they're around $150 fitted in little old Radelaide, reckon they'll be on my ride next time 'round.

[odysseyesm]

Has anyone had experience with casting polyurethane?
Seeing as Ralliart don't make them anymore, I'm going to look into casting my own bushes for the rear suspension tops.

I've heard via a contact at MGEC that the go is to get a copy of original bush machined out of alloy 2% oversize, make a mould from it and then cast in poly.
How is Poly graded other than by hardness. Is it simple like certain colours are particular densities?

Thx.

[wombat]

Can't rely upon the colour Darren.

Whatever shop you go to, you'll have to specify the durometer of the urethane you want (if buying a pre-fab piece, which would then have to be put on a lathe to shape it).

A friend of mine who used to work at Japanese Motorsport helped me with doing custom engine mounts for my twin cam charade a few years ago. We ended up using a liquid urethane compound. Me thinks you want an 70-80 A durometer hardness for sus tops

Check these guys out, this is where we bought our urethane from:

http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19_499_502_279&products_id=1024

[odysseyesm]

For Coro's benefit, not mine but they have mudflaps!!

http://minkara.carview.co.jp/image.aspx?src=http%3a%2f%2fcarview-img02.bmcdn.jp%2fminkara%2fusercar%2f000%2f000%2f6 03%2f340%2f603340%2fp1.jpg

http://minkara.carview.co.jp/image.aspx?src=http%3a%2f%2fimg01.carview.co.jp%2f minkara%2fblog%2f000%2f021%2f253%2f026%2f21253026% 2fP1.jpg

http://minkara.carview.co.jp/image.aspx?src=http%3a%2f%2fcarview-img02.bmcdn.jp%2fcarlife%2fimages%2fuser%2f338574% 2fp1.jpg

[Corosith]

Yeah, I've got heaps of pics with mudflaps but that wing is something else, probably need them where I take my colt, stop some of those stone chips!;) Best bet is to get some generic ralliart ones off ebay and copy the metal plates from the $600+ genuine items.

[odysseyesm]

Some XR5T mods that I found on the owners forum:


STAGE 1.
3M Window Tint..............................
GGR Cold Air Induction ................
Whiteline Adjustable R.Sway Bar....
Deresonate Exhaust.......................

Total inl GST......................................$1450

STAGE 2.

Dreamscience Ultra Tuner..With MODX included
Airtech Intercooler...............
King Lowered coils and fitting.Kit.25/20mm lower...

Total Incl GST....................................$2550

STAGE 3.

Focus RS Clutch Kit including upgraded Flywheel
Quaife LSD Diff Centre.

Total Incl GST....................................$3450

Stage 4.
Miltekcat back with cobra 200 cell race cat
Full EBC Brake Rotor(Slotted and Dimpled)replacement and EBC red Pad Upgrade.

Total Incl GST.....................................$3900

Quaife fit(Labour only) $900
Quaife fit with RS Full Clutch kit including flywheel..(Labour only)..$1100

Other popular Cosmetic Mods ..

Brake Calipers painted....$150

Painted standard Alloy wheels..Colour of your chice......$650

Various Tyres...Eg...Kumho KU36...235/40/18.....$249 fitted and balanced.

Grilles painted ...Upper and Lower...$420

We can paint rear diffusers, Rear Wings.Top bonnet lips.Mirror Covers.

We also have access to a variety of vinyl stripe kits.

Our mods are very cheap compared to these, Look at the price of the Quaife...

Apparently one guy down at Nizpro in Melb is getting 300Kw out of his XR5T - very tasty.

[odysseyesm]

So i've fitted the springs I (apparently) had re-set at Adelaide Industrial Springs... Along with the Ralliart strut tops and anti-lift bushes.
Only thing is that AIS didn't exactly do what I asked for. Fronts do sit lower but only around 10mm (I asked for 20mm lower) and rears now sit 40mm HIGHER.....WTF??
After driving it home - about 10klms from Wheelworx I decided I didn't like the overlander option and put the stockies back in myself. it was bloody dangerous, hit a bump and the back end would come off the ground with a bang as the struts topped out. Was getting oversteer at 50klm/h if there was a bump in the road...
Not Happy Jan.

After picking up the car I went down to AIS and asked WTF? Only to be told the dude who did the work had gone home for the day and wouldn't be back until Monday. I ring Monday only to be told that he leaves at 3pm because he starts soooo early, what time does he start? 7am... sounds pretty bloody cushy to me...
I finally get hold of the guy yesterday and he says he can't understand how it happened, blah, blah, blah just bring them back and we'll re-do 'em....
Sure mate, you pay the $300 to pull the shit ones out and put the stockies back in and then pay another $300 to swap the springs back again and we'll b GTG.
After the tooing and frooing I'm not sure if I want to go through this shit fight, I might just go and ask for my money back.

Anyway, with the Ralliart bushes and strut tops fitted it handles really well. Noticably better than before.
I have a test corner that's on a closed track (not open to the public) and a corner that I used to hit at 120 with understeer and some back end skipping I can now get through at 145 and still accelerating.

The current set-up on the car is KU31's @40psi front/ 36psi rear, reset 10mm lower OEM springs on the front, stock springs on the back, JamesPH rollstopper, Ralliart anti-lift bushes in the front and Ralliart Strut Tops fitted. as a side note, the guys at Wheelworx said they couldn't see any difference in the Strut tops over the stockers but it definately turns in a lot better now.
I'm wondering if I need to go any lower on the front considering the handling ATM with no appreciable trade-off in ride.

What I'm working on ATM is a front CF splitter that will attach to the front bar with the stock aero bits still fitted. The intent is a simple bolt-on fit that won't attract the attention of the Funstoppers. But I can make it a TA style thing with guyropes attached to the radiator support panel if I want.
If I end up selling them to Colt members I can't see it costing much more than $250 or so depending on material costs.
PM me if anyone is interested and it might motivate me a bit more.

Oh yeh, the clutch i got from Kenobi is superb, no noises, no groaning and more pedal but the mechanic holed a fuckin CV boot in the process of fitting it...
So I now have grease spraying out on the inside of the wheel wheel up the side of the car etc....
Misubishi want $136 a boot (kit) but what choice do I have???


Just like Jean Baptiste Zorg says: "If you want something done, you have to do it yourself..."

[wombat]

Shit mate, that's a lot of bad luck re:springs (about as lucky as my front ender this morning).

On a side note, try http://www.driveshaftcv.com.au/ fora boot kit, be a helluva lot cheaper than Mitsi's, only down the road from us as well.

[Corosith]

What can I say, you are headed in the right direction, just taking a quick side step having to deal with incompetant services, surely the mechanic is paying for the CV boot, after all he stuff it - or he fits the clutch for a discount rate??? Anyway, after all that I'm glad the clutch side of things worked out, and AIS, well I'm lost for words what were they thinking (or smoking). I'm still thinking of restting my stock springs to a similar height to the Lovell ones, at least I am now armed with some knowledge - lol!

[odysseyesm]

They seem pretty happy to help, but now I'm a bit sceptical I guess... But I'm liking the front end so far regardless of which bit is making it better.
I'll get the back springs sorted & I'll keep posting progress.

Might end up getting the full Ralliart shock/spring combo anyway...

[odysseyesm]

Ralliart Strut top feedback.

I'm lovin them! If you want to improve the handling of your Colt then get a set of these babies, worth the money IMO especially as you don't really need to put new springs or shocks in get any benefit from the strut tops. If you do put in stiffer shocks and springs you liable to get more benefit but then ride quality will be a bit harsher.
PM me if you want to know where I got mine from 'casue they aren't a sponsor of this site. If you wanna go through the sponsors then I'm sure they could get them for you.

[odysseyesm]

Pivot 3 Drive Throttle Controller

Fitted my Pivot on the weekend. No plug & play so i had to go a bit old skool as it didn't have the OBDII plug on it...
No probs - just terminated the power & earth to the ciggie lighter with a couple of crimps; I don't like those dodgy Scotchclips.
Tinned the wires and connected everything up.
While I was there I shorted out the poxy clutch ignition cut-out too - no more stepping into the car to push the clutch in when warming it up in the morning. All I did was cut out a 2" length of 16g wire, tinned the ends, jammed it into the plug and tapped it all up.

Did the calibration which took a bit of time as I had to read Japanese script to get the calibration steps. Basically just followed the pictures and pressed buttons until the sequenced matched the drawings in the Pivot instructions, pretty easy.

V happy with the result, feels like the bottom end has been cleaned up and it's a lot more responsive off the line. Before i used to give the throttle a bit of a blip as I took off to try and minimise the bogging dopne off the line. But now, when you touch the throttle it revs and doesn't bog. Doesn't rev high but it revs when you touch the throttle.
If UR doin drags or something, this sort of thing would improve your 60ft times as it's just so much more responsive off the line.
The only negative so far is when you're driving along a bumpy road you tend to get a bit jerky on the throttle. I think that once I get used to it there wouldn't be any trouble with this tho.

If UR thinking about changing over to a mech linkage throttle set-up I would recommend you check out this option first. it's really effective IMO.

The Pivot 3 Drive retails at about $400 ish and Blitz has a similar jobbie out there at about the same $$, bit steep but I reckon it's a good mod - eBay is your friend.

If UR gunna do some wiring don't be a tight arse by using scotchclips, go and get some crimps and a crimping tool. They're not dear (eBay) and you'll get more reliable connections which will help with only having to do the job once. Look for a crimping kit which will give you the tool and a selection of crimps to get you started. You can also get 'em at Jaycar if you don't wanna go eBay.
Like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Auto-Electrical-Crimping-Tool-Kit-Pliers-/260729207225?pt=AU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media&hash=item3cb4abf9b9

[Corosith]

Amazing the difference it makes to how the colt drives after fitting one, much more like what I would have expected from the factory. It's actually on special at the moment if you buy it directly from the Pivot Racing website for $254 plus shipping, which makes the Blitz one look quite expensive.http://www.pivotracing.com/product/THF

[odysseyesm]

After driving to work today and trundling around the streets tonight I am really impressed with this Pivot Drive. It does away with a lot of the doughy bottom end the Colt has due to the fly-by-wire throttle.

At that price it is well worth the money IMO, I'm amazed at what a difference there is for such a simple mod. It literally is plug & play.
Get it and order the 1C loom for the Colt - you won't be sorry. Just make sure you calibrate it after you installit otherwise there'll be no difference at all.

Edit:
Really liking this thing ATM, I've had to drop it back to about 4 or 5 in the sport mode 'cause it hits boost (wheelspin city) too quick - dunno if that can be classed as a real problem though...

[odysseyesm]

Looking at putting some stripes on the car but I'm not 100% about it yet...

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/Stripe1withText.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/Stripe2withText.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/Stripe3.jpg

Early days, I'll see what else he comes up with.

[DamoMcTitz]

in black perhaps?

[odysseyesm]

Yeh, that's what I said originally...

Anyways, found out a little bit of info last night at a cruise for the Adelaide branch of the Oz Magna Club.
Steve Knight and the guys he has working for him pretty much made up of the Mitsi R&D arm when Mitsi was manufacturing Magnas. They' have access to a lot of data (and hardware) that was gathered during the development phases of a lot of Ralliart and non-Ralliart goodies in Oz.
If they aren't working with/for him he has regular contact with all the others involved as well. Prolly explains how he gets 458Kw ATW out of his EVO. SKR have also entered in the World TA at Eastern Ck this year.

If anyone is interested in going to the WTA in August then you better get in quick. Accomodation at the Chiffley is going real quick. While I was checking out rooms online 6 rooms were booked out for the 5th in about 30 secs. So if NE one is going i'll see yaz there.

Two days of cars with no missus or kids - keen as!

Edit:
Got my money back for my so-called spring resetting as well. Sent them a nicely worded letter, got a response the next day and the refund the next.
So if you have a beef with some business somewhere, write them a nicely worded letter with the FACTS and no venting and you'll get better results. The OCBA website has some templates for letters as an exaple of how to not abuse people and get some progress on your issue.

[Corosith]

Glad you got your money back, pretty shit considering that is what they supposedly specialise in, someone needs the sack! Where are your springs going now, or did you still get them redone and the refund was to pay for the cost fo the spring removal? Would love to go to the Time Attack although I have a feeling that I will be stuck out in the Tanami desert around then, we'll see.

[odysseyesm]

Nah, I figured that seeing as I got the strut tops and lower bushes fitted I was happy with the cost of gettin the springs reset.
Now I'll get franks' King springs and put them in myself.

Really looking forward to the WTA. Should get plenty of piccys.

[odysseyesm]

I found out some interesting information when I was at the Clipsal yesterday.

Turns out that the dude who owns the Colt SKR have been using as the tester for the reflashes is the workshop manager (Gavin) at Australian Clutch Services - AKA Extreme Clutches. His wife uses the Colt as a daily after getting rid of her STi WRX 'cause she/they weren't happy with it. Gavin reckons he fangs around in it when he's not in the work truck.

I was chatting to him about reco-ed clutches and when I said it was for an RColt it kicked things off.
Gavin reckons they sell plenty of clutches for the Colt to Europe and says he just supplied a clutch to some guy in Europe whose Colt is putting out over 500Hp (368Kw) at the treads - didn't have much more info about it as I was asking about the reflash progress. I'd really like to find out more about that ride, dunno if it's the Kosunen 4WD thing or not??

He also says they now sell the Sachs clutch for the Colt and has been tossing around some ideas to toughen up the stock clutch. I mentioned about the kit I got from Kenobi in the UK had all the extra bits in it but he wasn't sure if the one they sell is the same kit.
I'm gunna keep in contact with him to find out about how the reflash is going but he says that SKR (Steve) got in touch with him during the week to organise another session.
Pretty handy contact for some more Colt development I reckon.

D.

[kalt]

I found out some interesting information when I was at the Clipsal yesterday.

Turns out that the dude who owns the Colt SKR have been using as the tester for the reflashes is the workshop manager (Gavin) at Australian Clutch Services - AKA Extreme Clutches. His wife uses the Colt as a daily after getting rid of her STi WRX 'cause she/they weren't happy with it. Gavin reckons he fangs around in it when he's not in the work truck.

I was chatting to him about reco-ed clutches and when I said it was for an RColt it kicked things off.
Gavin reckons they sell plenty of clutches for the Colt to Europe and says he just supplied a clutch to some guy in Europe whose Colt is putting out over 500Hp (368Kw) at the treads - didn't have much more info about it as I was asking about the reflash progress. I'd really like to find out more about that ride, dunno if it's the Kosunen 4WD thing or not??

He also says they now sell the Sachs clutch for the Colt and has been tossing around some ideas to toughen up the stock clutch. I mentioned about the kit I got from Kenobi in the UK had all the extra bits in it but he wasn't sure if the one they sell is the same kit.
I'm gunna keep in contact with him to find out about how the reflash is going but he says that SKR (Steve) got in touch with him during the week to organise another session.
Pretty handy contact for some more Colt development I reckon.

D.

The Kosunen uses an Evo engine doesn't it, so it's not the standard colt clutch? Yes a very good contact to have for colt development :)

[odysseyesm]

Well, interesting night..
Heading down to the bottlo and got trailed then eventually pulled over by what I found out was the funstoppers.
They pulled me over and asked why I was speeding to which I replied:
"You know I wasn't speeding otherwise you would have pulled me over a couple of kilometres ago. You've been tailgating me for ages."

Didn't get a response after that, he started walking around with his torch checking the car out. 4 good tyres - check, 4 stock rims - check, legal exhaust - check, stock headlights - check, etc, etc. Then he says to me: "corners alright doesn't it".
Turns out that I'd piqued his interest because of the cornering speed. Driving at 50ks and not slowing down for the corners if I didn't need to. They followed me for about 3klms to see if I was going to break the speed limit. I didn't know they were coppers until they pulled me over. Lucky I guess....

I picked up Wombats' springs' yesterday and fitted the rears to match the fronts originally lowered by the mob on Pt Rd. The thing corners like it's rails at low speeds. Will try it out on some faster corners tomorrow on the way to work.

Next thing I'm gunna look at is the Opensource stuff Daed and the rest of 'his' boys are moving ahead with. Fucked off with the continual fob-offs from SKR.

[Corosith]

You wonder why car enthusiests get pissed off with the police when they pull shit like that, accusing you of something that you obviously didn't do just to get the chance to walk around your colt and try to ping you for something, don't they call that harrassment? Lucky all ended well.:confused:

[odysseyesm]

True - but I was pretty happy with whole thing.
The look on the dudes face was priceless to see some old bloke like me in the car...

[Corosith]

Bet you if it was a P plater it would be a different story, that's about the only good thing about getting older these days.:cool: Apparently I'm 40 next year - gulp!

[odysseyesm]

Agreed. A P plater would've been given a tough time.

Relax man I'm 41 tomorrow...

[odysseyesm]

I've been in contact with the Whiteline Rep for SA - SA Suspension at Ween Rd Pooraka.
Between these guys and Whiteline in Sydney I'm told that the Rear Sway bar for the RColt will be around 4 - 8 weeks away from the market.

Trevor at SA Suspension is going to email me as soon as the stuff comes in. I'm mainly interested in the sway bar but I would imagine that other bits still under development would be available at around the same time.

Contact:
trevorc@sasuspension.com.au
4 WEEN RD POORAKA SA 5095
P 08 8262 3622 F 08 8262 7511

[odysseyesm]

Got the CV replaced.
Typical fuck-ups with Mitsubishi though. My mechanic ordered a genuine one which took 4 weeks. Didn't turn up so he rang Mitsubishi to ask WTF?
They tell him it's been lost in the journey from Japan over to here.... They didn't even throw up the Tsunami/Nuclear Holocaust thang, just a straight up "We lost it".

Anyway got a universal fitted, $167 all up.

[odysseyesm]

Thanks to Sneekee I've been made aware that the Ralliart upper bushes for the rear struts are available again??? According to my communications with the Japanese supplier they are 'back from the dead'.
PM me if anyone wants the details.

[Corosith]

Bone broke atm, otherwise would be interested - lol. Should see what other Ralliart gear they can get Their hands on.

[odysseyesm]

Just paid a deposit on some Performance Superlites in a 16x7 and a +12 offset - will be getting cast next week. Will b fitting the stock tyre with just a tiny bit of stretch.
Did the calcs and the edge of the wheel will sit in the same spot as Rokkuchans 16x8 +25.
Mine will be all black (semi gloss) tho, Rokku has a black centre and looks tough as IMO on the white Colt. Seeing his car sealed the deal for me.

The Superlites look have a Wantanabe style spoke:
http://www.performancewheels.com.au/images/big_superlite15x10.jpg
Although I reckon the Wantanabe is a copy of the original Magnesium Superlite that used to be on the race Minis back in the day...

[rokkuchan]

Mine are +20's by the way. Can't wait to see!!!! They look awesome

[wombat]

+ 2 on that, nice wheel.

Car will have to be pretty low to make the most of the looks. Cant wait to see it mate!

[Corosith]

+3 on the looks, should suite the white duco nicely, we expect many pics from you!;)

[DamoMcTitz]

phat attack - instant bone. excellent choice.

[odysseyesm]

phat attack - instant bone. excellent choice.

Woh!! Too much info dude...
LOL...

Hows all the new pipework, wing etc goin?

[odysseyesm]

Ordered today:
Whiteline 22mm Rear Sway Bar:

Code: BMR91. Qty: 1 @ A $ 286.36 each. ITEM SUB: A $ 286.36
Description: Swaybar 22mm-heavy duty


INVOICE: - Odyseyesm
Value Goods:------ A $ 286.36
Shipping Cost:------ A $ 14.50
Sales Tax at 10.00 % :------ A $ 30.09
GRAND TOTAL:---------- A $ 330.95
In stock yesterday at Whiteline, should have mine by the weekend.

[Corosith]

Cmon pay day! Stuck up at Leigh Creek at the moment otherwise I'd invite u around to tinker on the cars again!

[odysseyesm]

Installed Whiteline rear swaybar installed this afternoon after the dyno session:

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030194.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030196.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030198.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030200.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030201.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030203.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030204.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030205.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030206.jpg

Haven't had time to test too much yet. Did go for a drive around the block and it is def a lot stiffer on the turn in.
One corner done the road is quite wide and I turned in quite late to see what it would do - ended up lifting the inside rear off the ground quite high compared to before. Loaded up the suspension a bit, rear end hopping on the outside rear wheel around the corner without sliding at all.
This was at low speed <50klms - you can certainly feel the increased load transferred to the front end when turning in, sits flatter in the corner.

It looks a bit agricultural for my liking and it sits pretty low. Def the lowest point under the car. I'm gunna trim up the bolts a bit to get a bit more clearance.

[lovecolt]

So you done the install yourself?? Looked like something we could DIY

[odysseyesm]

Yeh - no problems.
Only minor issue I had was one lock nut was missing in the kit :( . It was one of the ones that lock the swaybar onto the balljoint.
Make sure that you use the right nuts on the balljoint. There are two different thread types on there - but the nyloc nuts are different colours (silver and gold).
Could be a clearance issue with one of the U brackets on the exhaust so keep that in mind. I used a tape to measure the distance from the wheel rim to the U brackets to get them even.
The closer you get the U brackets to the wheels, the more effective the swaybar will be.
I took my time and it was about an hour to install.

[lovecolt]

And obviously you need to jack the rear up to do it, right?

[RcoltGuy09]

Id definitely DIY this shit.. But after lookin at these pics i agree tht it becomes the cars lowest point.. I like how my car isnt too low and barely scrapes, maybe the bar will scrape on a few things..

[odysseyesm]

Yep - I used jackstands under the rear chassis rails.
Don't follow my lead and jack it up on your gravel driveway... Use solid ground.

I don't think the bar etc will scrape if whatever ur driving over is wide enough for both rears to go over at the same time. The diameter of the rear wheels protects it from hitting.
It's only if you say parked with two wheels up on the footpath and the other two were on the road. Too close to the curb and it might hit I reckon.
Or if you go over one of those speed humps with the gaps in it. Still needs to be a big arse speed bump though - the lowest I measured was about 120mm from the ground with my King Springs fitted.

[Macca]

I don't like it.

Crap mounts. Won't work with coilover even thou the demo car had them fitted the spring perches are meant to be bolted to the torsion bar.

It also sits too low.

IMO whiteline failed

[lovecolt]

I don't like it.

Crap mounts. Won't work with coilover even thou the demo car had them fitted the spring perches are meant to be bolted to the torsion bar.

It also sits too low.

IMO whiteline failed

Agreed in terms of mounts. As said in steel's donar thread, they are still using these backyard grade of mounting method as they have been about 10 yrs ago when i put one on my old mirage.

[odysseyesm]

Yeh, I expected better. Would think twice about Whiteline products ever again.
For what it is and how long it took to get made it's pretty half arsed. Now they'll complain because they won't sell many IMO. Looks like theyre only interested in WRXs and Evos.

[wombat]

Crap mounts.

It also sits too low.

IMO whiteline failed

+3 - would have expected a better mounting design from a company of their rep.

IMO I don't really see the need for an uprated SB on the torsion beam set-up of the colt...I find it over-steers approaching its limits anyway with ASC off (could be my driving style though - LIFT OFF!). Never found it to be a massive understeerer since i've had the car, pretty well balanced factory settings.

[filofaith]

it may sit low but its inline with the wheels soo not that much of an issue unless ur off roading lol

[ruimond]

Was thinking of getting the rear sway bar with another member. Or possible see who else wants it in WA too...but even with the crap mounts and how its pretty half arsed made.... Do you think its worth getting anyway? Or would it be like a product you wouldn't recommend at all. As in do you think the benefits from the rear being stiffer outweigh its design flaws? Haha.

[lovecolt]

My concern is, with the way how the bar's tied to the torsion bar, will it constantly rubbing against it??

[ruimond]

My concern is, with the way how the bar's tied to the torsion bar, will it constantly rubbing against it??

Do you mean when the ends of the sway bar moves up and down when the spring perches moves (bounces)? Hrmmm i wonder.....it shouldn't bounce/rub enough to rub unless ur car bounced heaps if you were doing a rally : P haha. Dunno just guessing.

But still pretty keen on this.

[lovecolt]

Do you mean when the ends of the sway bar moves up and down when the spring perches moves (bounces)? Hrmmm i wonder.....it shouldn't bounce/rub enough to rub unless ur car bounced heaps if you were doing a rally : P haha. Dunno just guessing.

But still pretty keen on this.

I mean the 2 x "U" ring (nearer to the centre of the car) that tied the sway bar to the big torsion beam

[odysseyesm]

Well it might look like it was made in a chook shed but it works very, very well. I'm almost at the point of overlooking the gashness of the mounts and I'm now working on how to improve the clearance etc.
After checking the tyre pressures (F40, R36) I took the car for a spin over the Basket Ranges this arvo - it's one of the loops used on the MGEC meets. A combination of tight & bumpy with open & smooth cambered and off-cambered corners with pine needles, water runoff and surface mud thrown in. Great bit of road that has posted limits of 80 - 100 and corners rated down to a lowest of 25.
I fucking loved it! The SB practically eliminated understeer at the speeds I was comfortable doing, you could feel the car loading up the outside front wheel through the corners and just gripping. I can't wait until I get rid of the KU31s and fit something comparable to the original AD07 - at this rate it won't be long.
I'd really like to see the difference between cars with and without the SB on the same road.

EDIT: I couldn't hear any noises and after giving it a good fang it hasn't moved at all.

It still looks like shit though... :(

[Corosith]

Ground clearance isn't really an issue to the suspenson moving independant of the chassis, I'd be more worried about the fixed mounts for the the rear UR racing chassis brace if you have one as in comparison it affects the ramp over angles - bad for speed humps and crests on steep driveways. I don't mind the way it bolts up to the torsion beam, was pretty much as I expected after looking at installs on other torsion beam equipped hatches that don't come standard with a rear swaybar. I think I would rather this setup versus have to drill holes into the metal work to make things fit. It actually looks a lot prettier than the Cusco bar, even though the Cusco bar might have better mounting points on the spring bases, would be interesting to do a comparison.
The swaybar will not rub on anything other than the nolathane bushes in the bolt on mounts and possibly a little at the springs bases which also have bushes to allow some movement. - there should be no metal to metal contact with this setup. If there is any metal to metal contact, it may be due to the main mounting brackets not being place far out enough on the torsion beam to locate the sway bar far enough off the beam. I can see why you mentioned it Ryan, looking at how close the bar sits in the 8th photo, probably just due to the way it was taken.

With regards to the way it now handles, I used to have a whiteline swaybar fitted to my Swift Gti, and it would cock its rear wheels around corners at Mallala on a regular basis. I found that an overly stiff rear end would sometimes result in snap oversteer with just about no warning, so I think it would work best with a not too stiffer spring (usually you just rely on a stiff spring to reduce body roll, but it results in a pretty crashy ride and crap control over undulating roads). Just something to ponder.

Will be interested to see if it has a + or - effect on the colt's handling.

Well there you go! Speak of the devil!

[lovecolt]

What you said, makes sense to me Chris. However, i don't think its prettier than the cusco one as Cusco has a more integrated look

[odysseyesm]

The SB does sit pretty close to the rear axle/beam outboard of the U brackets. Prolly about 1 - 2mm but it didn't hit at all today. I'll keep an eye on it.
It def cocks its inside rear a lot more now.

[ruimond]

Did you order the sway bar through whiteline directly? or did you get repco/autoone/etc to order it in for you?

Its still not on the website anyway.....i wonder when they'll be adding it to the product list. Its been awhile, and you did say they have it in stock.

[odysseyesm]

Phoned them up direct in Sydney.
It's not up on the site yet AFAIK. I just happened to jag one the day after they arrived in the depot.
I can't believe that it was only $14 couriered over from Sydney to Adelaide. It weighs a fair bit and it isn't small.

Anyway, get onto them: part number BMR91.

[odysseyesm]

Test fit of Mags.
Front might be a little wide... Backs are spot on.
There's a solution though :)

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IMG_1115.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IMG_1114.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IMG_1116.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IMG_1119.jpg

[skyrex]

ET30's? What wheel are they? Contrast is a bit severe and can't make them out too well. Might be my display too.

[odysseyesm]

Superlites.
Not big on gloss black - gotta find some clear matt to go over them with.
Any suggestions?

[Corosith]

I like the yoko slicks you have on the rear there - lol, they certainly do stick out a bit at the front, but that is with the suspension at full droop though. Starting to look like a little meany of a car, I also think the gloss finish isn't too bad, but matt would look cool.

[wombat]

I'm liking the gloss finish...run with it for a while! Matt finish has been done to death (although holds up better with brake dust all over it).

Look forward to more pics :-)

[odysseyesm]

I do like matt black tho.... Even if it has been done to death, that's cause it looks fully sick mate!
Prolly will go with Gloss black for a while - see what it looks like with some brake dust on em.

[rokkuchan]

Looks great! I prefer dark blue :) Or gun metal.

[odysseyesm]

Some photos - not the greatest quality and the car/rims are dirty due to the lovely weather we're having...

Anyway, here they are:

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030213.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030216.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030217.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030219.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030223.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030220.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030221.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030222.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030224.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030225.jpg

Still want to pump the guards a bit more, front & back has only been pumped about 10mm.

[Corosith]

Low and sleek, looking good in daylight, hard to see those rims in the dark. I notice your headlights are peeling the same as mine.

[rokkuchan]

Those wheels are so black. Perhaps repaint them in Matte Gunmetal Grey?

[wombat]

Get some wheel caps on those rims stat, would clean up the look of them a little :D

[odysseyesm]

Yeh I'm gettin' there with the wheel caps. The ones that come with are huge ugly chrome things... Poo. Reckon they'd poke out further than the edge of the tyre....
I've got some getting made up that are black with the orange/red Ralliart stripe emblem on them.

I'm liking the black, if get them changed I'll just get the paint stripped off and go the bare aluminium look. I really need to get the forever black onto the plastics, that grey stripe look isn't all that flash. Seeing Lovecolts plastics in his recent photo post really shows up the difference.

[Kstiffy]

Mate loving those pump guards u can actually notice it tbats so phat

[lovecolt]

Seeing Lovecolts plastics in his recent photo post really shows up the difference.

??????.......I'm not using forever black on my plastics. In fact, I barely used anything on them, but that might be because I barely left my car under the sun......

[odysseyesm]

??????.......I'm not using forever black on my plastics. In fact, I barely used anything on them, but that might be because I barely left my car under the sun......

Reckon I've barely left mine in the shade...

[bpt4w]

nice mags ody , been looking at similar wheels but trying to find the forged versions , don't suppose you have come accross em they are a japanese wheel but don't know the name but they look exactly the same.

[MYZ27AG]

Japanese ones are called "Watanabe"

[odysseyesm]

Yep - that's the ones I wanted but out of my price range...
http://www.watanabe.com.au/

16x7 F8F +35 @ $670ea...
My Performance Superlites 16x7 +12 cost me around $1500 including paint, swapping tyres around and some guard pumping/rolling.

[rokkuchan]

Would be awesome if you had that extra inch + low offset will give so much step dish.

16x7 @ 35 offset looks really flat and gay.

The original old skool watanabe's are 15,16x8-10" and 0 offset.

http://www.rs-watanabe.co.jp/images/users_photo/takashikun-ae86.jpg

[Ayu452]

there be no hope of a 0 offset will there on our car?
just curious can we get plastic guard extensions? or wherever they r called...r they universal or have to get them custom molded?
like u see on some cars wit super wide rims

[odysseyesm]

Dunno? I got my guard roller tonight so hopefully I'll be able to play with it on the weekend.
So far with the King Springs fitted along with the 16x7 +12 and 205/45-16 tyres there hasn't really been that much rubbing.
The guys who fitted the tyre basically ground down the metal guard and overfender clips so that there was basically no 'edge' to the guard. The guard was also pumped by about 5mm on the back. The guard rubs a bit of the tyre sidewall but doesn't cut the tyre. I reckon if the guard was pumped by around 15mm from stock you would have no probs with my current rim/suspension set-up.

On the front it has been less of an issue - there was a bit of grinding done on the metal guard and the plastic overfender but no pumping of the guard. I grabbed the top of the RH guard and stretched it by hand. It gave it more room up the top of the guard but gave less room in other spots.
The bracket between the front bar attachment clip and the metal guard is the bit that rubs on the tyre when I hit a big bump - it's worn the inner guard down a bit so that there's a small hole. I reckon this can be fixed no probs - I'll dick around with it and see what I can do. Rolling it should fix the problem but you have to be careful that you don't break the bracket that holds the front bar or change the shape of the guard so that other bits rub in the tyre.

As for plastic guard extensions - I reckon we could use the aftermarket kits that fit the Nissan Cube. Haven't measured anything but it looks like around about the same diameter wheel arch. Anyways, we have to chop up the arch to fit our bodywork that I wouldn't matter that much anyway. Viva Garage in Adelaide sells an aftermarket fibreglass kit, dunno the price but they're about 2klms up the road from home so I can check it out easy enough. Another option I've seen was the stock plastic wheel arches on a Holden Adventurer. Bigger diameter wheel arch but they've got plenty of flare in them - hit the wreckers up to see what you can find.
Otherwise it's just 4WD flare kits I think.

[bpt4w]

hmmm widebody kit for the colt would actually look good on this design.

[odysseyesm]

Rolled the guards a bit more this afternoon.
Put the tape measure on them before and after.
Started at 310mm before rolling - it's now 340mm from the inner guard just in front of the damper to the outer lip of the plastic overfender at the back only.
Should be good now - Will post up some pics later.

I anyone is planning to do it, couple of things I noticed.
When grinding, only grind away the plastic overfender clips and not the metal. If you grind away the inner metal lip, the metal will stretch and deform giving you a bit of a wavy lip.
I'm not sure if this will cause any problems but I guess I'll find out tomorrow on the drive to work. The guys who did it the first time around ground down the drivers side and I've ended up with a bit of a wavy edge. Pax side is really neat and smooth.
Was a lot easier than I thought, just take it slowly and watch what you're doing. The guard roller is the best $145 I've spent on this car IMO, it looks fat as.

[Macca]

useless with out detailed pics :P

[odysseyesm]

Yeh I know... Finished a bit late and the pics turned out shite.
I only flared the fronts just a little bit - didn't have to do much at all. Most of the work was on the back.

Got a few teasers...
Before:
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030306.jpg

During:
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030304.jpg

After:
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030315-1.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030314-1.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030316-1.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030314.jpg

Tools:
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030307.jpg

When the light is better I'll get some more pics. Shit weather in SA ATM, might take a while...

[wombat]

Lookin good man, wheels fill out the guards nicely.

Is it just me, or is the passenger side rear plastic guard coming away from the body panel?

[rokkuchan]

wanna do mine?

[odysseyesm]

Lookin good man, wheels fill out the guards nicely.

Is it just me, or is the passenger side rear plastic guard coming away from the body panel?

Nope - the little bit of rubber between the plastic overfender and the metal guard has always been a bit loose.
It just looks like the overfender is coming away.

I've got to recheck the dimensions. I reckon that the passenger side is flared a little bit more the the other.
Mite be just the light???

[odysseyesm]

wanna do mine?

Front or Back?
The front I reckon is pretty good as it is - shouldn't need any work to the front.
I can do it no probs - when is good for you?
How much you lookin at flaring them by?
You shouldn't need much on the back with the 8" rim and the std tyre - 20mm max I reckon. Unless ur lookin at gettin those other rims you wanted?

[rokkuchan]

Mine still scrubs somewhere on big bumps, but not sure if it's from the metal guards or from the rear bumper clips. So if i could get rid of all scrubbing it would be nice.

Not sure when but will ask you again when I want to get it done. Thanks

[odysseyesm]

No probs - Just holla.

[Corosith]

Looking good, your colt is going to have a mean meaty stance by the time you have finished - I'd do mine but I need rims with a decent offset!

[odysseyesm]

Been chatting to guy at work who has an RS Focus. He just upgraded his I/C to an UK version which is part of a package to up the power to 350PS ATW. Pretty obvious which is the replacement...

Anyways, looks like the RS Focus guys are having similar dramas to us WRT flashes etc. The upgrade kit is supplied by a UK mob called Mountune who have the blessing of Ford Europe so that all their upgrades don't void the factory warranty. Otherwise they physically have to bust open the ECU and put a physical link into the ECU so they can flash it
Also, this is the quote from our conversation about the dramas:
As for flashing the ECU, that’s a complete nightmare. The ECU is locked via a 256 bit encryption key that can only be over ridden by plugging it into Fords computer, or grinding off a security bolt, splitting the ECU in half, putting it in a special jig and dropping down a set of probes to read / unlock it (EBD enable it). The file is then sent to the UK, modified then something is done with that.

With a handset, and modified tune, you can then upload a new tune. Problem is, there has been one guy left with a fried ECU, $2000 for a new one, then the cost of rekeying the car and dash $$$$$$$. The other thing is, if Ford hook up there computer and load another tune, it relocks the ECU

The thing I was thinking is that factory RS I/C would be perfect size for the Colt - I don't know what the intake/outlet pipe dia is but the size and shape looks like it would be gold for the Colt.
I'll try and get some more details if anyone gets a option to buy one.

[rokkuchan]

256bit? That's old school. Power of the cpu these days with a "brute force" attack would hack a 256bit encryption within hours. Standards now are 1024-2058bit encryption. :) Just need a talented engineer to run the brute force to decrypt the thing. Similarly done to ripping lightly encrypted DVDs using those rippers.

but why flash them? They're bloody powerful as it is and probably tuned to its max potential by Ford themselves.

[0dd0ne]

fucking plastic end tanks. piece of shit.

and factory cars always have more to give with the ecu man.

[Corosith]

Been chatting to guy at work who has an RS Focus. He just upgraded his I/C to an UK version which is part of a package to up the power to 350PS ATW. Pretty obvious which is the replacement...

Anyways, looks like the RS Focus guys are having similar dramas to us WRT flashes etc. The upgrade kit is supplied by a UK mob called Mountune who have the blessing of Ford Europe so that all their upgrades don't void the factory warranty. Otherwise they physically have to bust open the ECU and put a physical link into the ECU so they can flash it
Also, this is the quote from our conversation about the dramas:
As for flashing the ECU, that’s a complete nightmare. The ECU is locked via a 256 bit encryption key that can only be over ridden by plugging it into Fords computer, or grinding off a security bolt, splitting the ECU in half, putting it in a special jig and dropping down a set of probes to read / unlock it (EBD enable it). The file is then sent to the UK, modified then something is done with that.

With a handset, and modified tune, you can then upload a new tune. Problem is, there has been one guy left with a fried ECU, $2000 for a new one, then the cost of rekeying the car and dash $$$$$$$. The other thing is, if Ford hook up there computer and load another tune, it relocks the ECU

The thing I was thinking is that factory RS I/C would be perfect size for the Colt - I don't know what the intake/outlet pipe dia is but the size and shape looks like it would be gold for the Colt.
I'll try and get some more details if anyone gets a option to buy one.

Without getting to far off topic, here's some contacts for your mate Oddyssey, all four companies make or provide aftermarket parts plus ECU upgrades for the Focus RS:
Wolf Racing: www.profile-automotive.co.uk or www.wolf-racing.de (355hp 412lb/ft upgrade)
HoGue Tuning: www.chiptuning-ht.de (355hp 431lb/ft upgrade)
Loder1899: www.loder1899.de (377hp 417lb/ft upgrade)
McChip-DKR: www.mcchip-dkr.com (395hp 451lb/ft upgrade)

Interesting to note that even after the power upgrades (some included LSd upgrade too), they recorded a quarter mile time of (in order), the fastest time was apparently due to a set of H&R coilovers and Drexler LSD upgrade:
13.87
14.21
14.31
14.05
:)

Apparently Superchips also do a 385hp remap as well.

[odysseyesm]

Thanks dude - I'll pass it on.
When you back in Radelaide? Need to use your flat, concreted garage again pleeeeease!

[Corosith]

I'm here now, the company has made me take leave due to building too much up, so I have a month or two off starting Tuesday! So any time you are ready I guess.:) (nice to have a shower again after a week of no showers & lots of deoderant).

[odysseyesm]

Report on some goodies that have turned up:

Dump pipe sourced fleabay - $259 delivered. Turns out it's the Autobahn88 jobbie that looks very pretty.
Leaves a bit to be desired on the weld penetration, and the mounting face on the turbo side is nowhere near flat. I put it on a flat surface and the curve is up around 3mm at the other end... :(
I've got access to a machine shop so a mate is going to face it off for me. The welds look a bit thin but a boiler maker friend says that they might be alright. The real problem area on these things is the weld quality between the mounting plates (15mm thick) and the sheet section of the pipe (1.6mm). This is where you'll typically get cracking.
You can't really complain for the price though - you get what you pay for. I think it's a good buy but ur going to have to do some work to sort it properly. I haven't actually bolted it up yet so I don't know for sure if it actually fits...

Anyway here's some pics:

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030405.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030404.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030403.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030402.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030401.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030400.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030399.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030398.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030397.jpg


Also got my Timing belt replacement kit from Jap Yahoo. Looks like all quality bits:

Gates timing belt:
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030386.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030383.jpg

Genuine Mitsubishi tensioner:
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030389.jpg

GMB Water pump:
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030393.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030391.jpg

NTN Bearings:
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030379.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030380.jpg
If you take the part number of these bearings into a bearing shop you should be able to get a replacement of the same size. That's assuming that the ones supplied to me are the right ones of course. I'm 90% sure that they will be but you never know...

The vendor threw in an oil filter, 'Drive Joy' brand:
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/P1030396.jpg

The vendor wouldn't supply unless I gave him my VIN to check the fit so I figure the guy knows what he's selling - I hope anyways.
All up for the timing belt kit was $395 could have got it down to $330ish if I didn't go air freight.
No gaskets other than the water pump o ring, but I don't think that matters much, go the gasket-in-a-tube option.

And I got my Stage 1 RPW flash in the mail. Waiting to catch up with Rokku so he can work his magic.

[odysseyesm]

I'm also interested in seeing if anyone knows of a sticky(ish) tyre in a 195/50-16 to go on a 7" rim.

Anyone got any feedback on the Potenza RE001's?

[Corosith]

Did Dave make you up a flash to suit your mods, or is it just the basic generic flash? If so, I should get Dave to mail it to me as well considering I have the gear plus have already payed for it. Have also been eyeing off that timing timing belt kit, but not expecting ot do it for a while yet, only done 60000 odd kms.

[odysseyesm]

I told him what mods I had so AFAIK it's one to suit.
At least that's what I'm assuming...

[rokkuchan]

I'm also interested in seeing if anyone knows of a sticky(ish) tyre in a 195/50-16 to go on a 7" rim.

Anyone got any feedback on the Potenza RE001's?

I had 16" Re001 before in my S2k. 225/50/16's. They're really awesome in dry but in the wet it's very slippery. It also smoothes out your ride quality + steering response - AS BRIDGESTONE CLAIMS - so it does work. I do highly recommend them. I compared this to Kumho KU36 - really grippy but shit steering response and ride quality is gone.

By the way RE002 is out and apparently solved the WET grip issue.

[odysseyesm]

Gotta thank Rokku for flashin up my Colt today.

Stage 1 RPW flash feels pretty good so far. Doesn't seem to hit as hard as before but it has more
Up top. Limited test so far Only been an hour or so - post up more later.

[odysseyesm]

Righto - pretty happy with the tune overall next step is to gt it on the dyno to c what it's making.
Only thing to watch is the other day I took it to the rev limiter in second and I got some detonation/pinging when I changed into third.
I didn't want the rev limit increase so I'll have to check the ROM to see if RPW upped it or not - I reckon that combined with a leaner tune than stock caused the det.
It was about 12deg morning so it wasn't overheating maybe over boosting I dunno how much boost I'm getting now. I think around 18 - 20 spike.
Does feel stronger right through the rev range tho - happy days.

[Macca]

shift knock can be fair common issue I have noticed.

Also right at the end of max duty cycle on the injectors at that area.

how do you know it knocked? Evoscan?

[rokkuchan]

When u took it to the rev limit, it probalby popped because there was fuel cut? Your rev limit is 72xx rpm. Just 500 more than stock (67xx).

I like to dyno mine too sometime...need another dyno day. I did a few changes and got it to a point it's boosting at 20psi tapering off to 16-17psi. Being in a nice mild weather few days back, tyres were warm so got a lot of grip and felt a lot of torque pushing through. Clutch made a lot of noise after spirited drive in the same route you took me last time but still gripping gears no problem.

[alba]

Did you hear knock or where you logging, if you heard it its not shift knock

why put the rev limit up, i dont understand why anyone on this forum does it with any mods. noone has changed cams so no need to rev it harder, its not like you fall off boost between gears lol

i rev mine to 7k in 1st thats all, only reason is i come off boost between 1st and 2nd because of the big gap in the gears. and my setup the power is actually still climbing at 7k unlike stock setup that peaks at ~5.5k rpm


agreed, i dont even get anywhere near redline in any gear apart from 1st

[Davo_colt]

i get a shite load of wheel spin in 1st on only 15-16psi, barely use it lol (really need suspension work and lsd)

but yeh def never reving the car over approx 6000rpm, no power above that on stock turbo

[Macca]

I set my limiter at 6500 haha

[odysseyesm]

Not logging just heard it. Wasn't much but it's enough...

I agree about upping the rev limit there's no point IMO. You can feel the power falling off around 6 with a flash. Even lower with a stock tune.

[colTwes]

stock tune mine had peak power @ 5600rpm, now with the reflash it has peak power @ 6300rpm

[odysseyesm]

That's pretty high for my stock engine - I'd prefer to sacrifice top end power for more torque down low. Love that grunt even in a 1.5 engine.
Rokku flashed my car again today so that the limiter is back to stock: 6702rpm down from 7600ish. Might b just psychological but I'd prefer it to b lower.

I also found pretty good place for tyres, bit unusual but I got quoted $245ea for Bridgestone potenza RE002 by Kmart. Bridgestone quoted me $274 couldn't get them for a couple of months. Kmart says they can supply in 2 days! Didn't expect to be able to buy sticky tyres from bloody Kmart but there u go...

[rokkuchan]

mmm I love RE001s. Can't imagine RE002. Let's hope it's just as good as RE001 after they said they made grip in wet better. But even slippery in wet in Re001 was awesome fun.

[Corosith]

Since Odyssey hasn't too many nice pics of his ride, I though I'd help him out with a few pics showing his newly flaired guard/wheel combination, and where the rubbing had occured on the inner plastic guard. Must say that the colt goes well with the reflash, very well (that's why I was asking so many questions re how good are your brakes - lol). And now you know how much "colt gear" I have to fit to my own car.:o

http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/3668/od5p.jpg

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/8234/od4f.jpg

http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/551/od2.jpg

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1201/od3vc.jpg

[odysseyesm]

U were right, those pics from ground level look good!!! Thx mate.
Wanna get the full size pics next time I c u.

Also wanna get some photos of what the stock inner rear guard looks like on ur car. Then I can do a 'How to' on guard rolling the colt. That photo of where my wheel rubs can b sorted pretty easy I think. It only rubs on my car because I flared the front guard a bit on that side. The other side doesn't rub anywhere near as much.

Flared Rokkus rear guard by 15mm with an extra 20mm clearance in total including buzzing the guard with the grinder. Mine were flared by 20mm with 25mm all up. I wouldn't flare it anymore than that cause I reckon you'll get a visible buckle in the guard.

[skyrex]

Mmm very nice stance man, I got coils on the way and I'd love to get that much low, but looking at 16x8 wheels in +15 cause I can't get them in higher offset. :(
Got a guard roller too so I'm keen for this how to you're talking about!

[Macca]

That low is nothing , Mine is about the same, you can go lower!

[odysseyesm]

Mmm very nice stance man, I got coils on the way and I'd love to get that much low, but looking at 16x8 wheels in +15 cause I can't get them in higher offset. :(
Got a guard roller too so I'm keen for this how to you're talking about!

What size tyres u going to run on those rims?
205/45-16 will stretch and fit nicely - check out some pictures of Rokkuchans ride.

[odysseyesm]

That low is nothing , Mine is about the same, you can go lower!

Yeh it's not that low.

Speaking of which, got some feedback on the Whiteline rear swaybar. We've got all new security checkpoints at work including those speedbumps that you can straddle with one wheel either side. I don't know how high it is but it's gotta be around 100mm.
Anyways even with King springs fitted and the sway bar attachment brackets hanging in the breeze there was no scraping or touching. I've been meaning to trim the bolts down but just haven't got round to it yet... I haven't heard any creaking noises from it lossening up yet either.
So even though it looks ugly as fuck it's still a thumbs up from me.

Took Corosith for a fang in it today and he commented on how there's wasn't much sliding. Little bit of squeeling but not a lot of sliding - guess we could of gone faster but it is a public road albeit with an 80 limit. It's pretty tough to get over 80 cause it's tight as a fishes ass.

[odysseyesm]

Looking for gaskets...

Anyone help with getting hold of dump pipe gaskets? The ones I need are MN135754 (Dump to Turbo) and MR529712 (Dump to Front pipe). Mitsubishi can get them but it's a two week wait.
Last time I ordered something (CV Boot) through Mitsubishi it 'got lost' according to Mitsubishi... Prefer not to go through them.

[Corosith]

Maybe check out a mob like these guys, they can source parts from all over the world and list the two items you are after, they also offer express postage, something that Mitsubishi hasn't heard of. What were you quoted for the two gaskets, can you get trade prices or just retail?

http://autopartmaster.com/en/?action=catalog_part&form_request=1&cod=MR529712&pref=MC&sOrderPrice=&price_type=retail

[odysseyesm]

Maybe check out a mob like these guys, they can source parts from all over the world and list the two items you are after, they also offer express postage, something that Mitsubishi hasn't heard of. What were you quoted for the two gaskets, can you get trade prices or just retail?

http://autopartmaster.com/en/?action=catalog_part&form_request=1&cod=MR529712&pref=MC&sOrderPrice=&price_type=retail

Have you used them before?

[Corosith]

Nope, it's just the first thing that came up with a search on those parts. Like you say, with Mitsubishi it can a bit of a lottery importing stuff from overseas, better off getting an independant to do it considering that's what they specialise in.

Keen to swap over the wheels and filter sometime soon, I would like to put the Toyos back on the stockies so I can refurbish the Enkeis and I'm sure you want to get rid of that nasty dirty Ralliart Filter and replace it with my nice clean one!

Better add the Whiteline swaybar to your Mods signature too whilst you are at it.

[odysseyesm]

No probs. I'll c if can drop the rims off tomoz - I'll let u know wot time

[Macca]

Reuse the old with some maniseal or gasket shit. That's what everyone else have done. They are metal based so they are all good generally

[odysseyesm]

Got some new photos of the bus. Borrowed a thermal imaging camera from work to do a few things and took some shots of the car when I got home.
Bloody thing is worth $40k!!

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IR_0101.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IR_0094.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IR_0090.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IR_0093.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IR_0088.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IR_0091.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IR_0097.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IR_0098.jpg
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a469/odysseyesm/IR_0085.jpg

Kinda cool...

[Macca]

hahah classic as

[Corosith]

You should do a fart on the seat and see if it leaves a signature - lol! Cool stuff!

It looks like the devil's own car, all on fire!

[odysseyesm]

Yeh that was the first thing we did with it. Then we started checking out the females arnd the joint. One of the chicks got it and started checking tackle...
What else do u do with a $40k camera...

[wombat]

Yeh that was the first thing we did with it. Then we started checking out the females arnd the joint. One of the chicks got it and started checking tackle...
What else do u do with a $40k camera...

Hahaha...hilarious!

[odysseyesm]

Does anyone know if stock Evo 9 injectors will fit the colt? They're supposed to be arnd 530cc or so which I reckon is perfect for a stage 3 tune.

[sabeli]

Does anyone know if stock Evo 9 injectors will fit the colt? They're supposed to be arnd 530cc or so which I reckon is perfect for a stage 3 tune.


if they do you are not getting them lol.....

[odysseyesm]

if they do you are not getting them lol.....

U can have the first set - the dude can get plenty by the sounds of it.

[sabeli]

im only kidding you have them ... :) im good for now find out if they do then ill see whats available :)

[odysseyesm]

Righto been lookin into the injector thang prior to a stage 3 style flash. Apparently the stock, 380cc, top feed 'baby blue' WRX injectors are the go - supposed to be a straight swap for the STD colt 275cc jobbies.
These injectors are fitted to post MY05 rexxies from what i understand and jou can expect to pay arnd $100 for a 2nd hand set of 4.

If anyone has some more info please post it up.

[colTwes]

any other rex parts that fit the colts besides turbo & injectors?

[BFLA]

any other rex parts that fit the colts besides turbo & injectors?

Ashtray and sunroof.

[odysseyesm]

Lately I've noticed that when I'm giving the car heaps, as in hitting redline in all gears (Private long, long, long road - also known as an airfield loop) I can smell the cat burning.

Chatting to SKR previously and some peeps who've had a dyno tune it seems like the RPW mail order tune is quite lean up top. Lean enough to start cooking the cat (when you flog it) with the result that the cat shits itself & blows out the back.

Rokku is having some issues with CELs and some O2 sensor fault codes. Says his Cat doesn't rattle but then it may already be gone? I don't think the Cat has collapsed and blown out the back as the NOx would be off the chart during a dyno tune I reckon.

Any thoughts?

[odysseyesm]

Time for a rant...

I've noticed a bit of a change on this site of late, a general slowing down in the number of posts and an increase in 'What the fuck would you know, I'm an expert and know everything' type comments.
New (and old) members post up genuine questions and they get smart arse responses or slammed because they aren't modifying their car to the satisfaction of the vocal minority. These vocal minority seem to think that unless you have forged internals, aftermarket ECU, race tyres, bigger turbos etc that you don't know what you're doing or you're not serious enough.

They don't like sticker bombing, neons or in their opinion 'riced up' cars and are quite happy to say so. AFAIK this forum is for 'Ralliart Colt enthusiasts' at least that's what comes up when I log in. If this sort of attitude and flaming keeps going then the majority of members aren't going to return with any comments or feedback. They'll prolly read but that's all there will be because of the same small minded comments on what is 'acceptable' for a Colt. Not just a Ralliart Colt but the Cabriolet, N/A, CZT etc.

I think this is a good forum and there's some constructive helpful information available. But I get pretty tired with the shit talk thrown out there on the assumption that everyone else posting knows fuck all. I've been modifying engines/gearboxes, racing bikes/cars and carts as well as working on jet/pistoned engined aircraft and helicopters since before some of these so called 'experts' were shitting yellow and sucking titties for a feed but I've still got plenty to learn and I'm going to ask questions.
There's was a world of motorsport and modifying culture before the internet, you know - old school books and shit... Just because something isn't posted up on a forum doesn't mean it hasn't happened before and just because something is posted on a forum (or in a book) doesn't mean it's right.

If you don't have anything positive to say then how about shutting the fuck up before posting some infantile comment about 'I'm a fucking celebrity, get me outta here...' or 'what the fuck do you know' or 'haven't I gone over this already?'

This is the whole reason behind the 'All Japan Day' type movement. No fucking doof-doof, no spray painted wheel arches or or all that facile (look it up) stuff just Jap cars with all sorts of modifications and variations. Contrary to your singular thought process no-one really give a rats arse about you (or me and my thoughts) but this is an internet forum and you can be all you want and post what you want.

I'm not particularly into neons, sticker bombing, big stereos or big power dyno queens but it's a good thing 'cause it deepens the gene pool.
All I'm saying is think about what you're posting, write want you want then walk away for 15 mins before you post or this forum will die a slow death, new members won't come onboard or post. I don't want that because it's a good resource except for the so called 'experts'.

Rant suspended...

[lovecolt]

Second what you just said. Unfortunately, we are a small community and are fairly limited to mods (comparing to other makes), so not much new things will happen to make new sparks for the older members.

But I'm happy to say that most other hot hatch forums (swift sport, xr4 and polo gti) that started about the same time as rcolt.com, are almost gone. Those car makes forum had much bigger community and mods availability, but we remain strong and outlast them by miles. This really credits to our members and everyone's contribution.

[odysseyesm]

Just fitted my old rims with some AD07s on them while the new tyres get fitted to my superlites.
Man those Advans are bloody noisy... They're worn but they're not feathered or un-even. Doesn't matter what speed I'm doing they are much noisier than the flogged KU31's they replaced. Sounds just like a worn out wheel bearing IMO.

I guess that's a plan for peeps who think they may have done a wheel bearing - fit your space saver or another tyre and see if the noise goes away before you shell out for a new wheel bearing.

I know they're old and they've prolly gone hard, but the grip is about on par with the worn KU31s as well.
When you push they don't screech or squeal at all, they just slide. I don't mind that at all :)

[rokkuchan]

Hey what other sizes does the SuperLites come in? and where did you buy them from??

[alba]

i just read your rant
top work haha

[0dd0ne]

I must be part of that "vocal minority"

[odysseyesm]

Hey what other sizes does the SuperLites come in? and where did you buy them from??

This is manufacturer:
http://www.performancewheels.com.au/Home/Wheels.asp?theGroup=C&Cat=Classic

Got mine from Wheelworx, you'll struggle to get some decent centre caps tho. The stock ones are shite.

[rokkuchan]

I don't understand the offset. what's 4P or 4N - 16x8 ? Yours is 16x7 - 12P? Why didn't you get the 16x8?

Cool, you think i can go to these guys to get custom made wheels?

[Macca]

P= Positive and N = Negative :P

I hope

[odysseyesm]

Has anyone had any contact with RPW this year?
I know it's only early in the year and they're still getting up to speed but it looks like the site isn't taking new registrations and the phone number on the site isn't working either.

Had some response prior to placing my order but quiet since.
These things take time I know, but..... I've got money burning a hole in my pocket... :)

[havoc_rah]

Has anyone had any contact with RPW this year?
I know it's only early in the year and they're still getting up to speed but it looks like the site isn't taking new registrations and the phone number on the site isn't working either.

Had some response prior to placing my order but quiet since.
These things take time I know, but..... I've got money burning a hole in my pocket... :)

They reopen on the 17th of Jan according to the website

[odysseyesm]

Looks like the goodies are coming soon. Ordered a tactrix online 4 days ago from the US and it arrived today!
I can't get stuff from Sydney that quick normally... Why does it only take 5-7 days to get stuff the US and nearly 2 weeks to get shit from sellers in Oz? Buying stuff for the colt through Mitsubishi is a fucking joke, 6-8 weeks and they 'lose' it in transit. No wonder peeps go online to buy stuff....
Trying to get a drivers fog light on an 04 VR wagon and Mitsubishi want $376 dollars for one!!! On ebay they're $125 for a set bnib incl postage.

[Corosith]

Just bloody inefficient, I sent an ebay item to the NT before christmas, it took 2 weeks, yet I bought an Ignis Sport brochure from France on ebay - it took about 5 days to get here via regular mail???? Even when I buy stuff direct from Monster Sport Japan it only takes a few days to end up landed on my doorstep.

[rokkuchan]

Tactrix use Fedex? If it doesn't rely on AustPost it's generally faster! - they have their own local couriers.

I remember my set of Tein Coilovers came within 3 days from japan for Fedex. EMS and DHL also really quick.

Mitsubishi usually use jap seamail - takes at least 2-3 months as it goes around other countries to pick up more shit.

[odysseyesm]

The plan so far...

Get my stuff from RPW before the weekend hopefully - sent by Startrack this afternoon. On Sunday I'll imposing on Rokku to flash in my 3 port (Tactrix) using Maccas ROM file at the very least. Looks like it's BJs all round...
I'd like to get my bigger dump, 1 bar wastegate and front pipe fitted along with the 3 port so that we (Well, Rokku will anyway...) can tune the car prior to geting the I/C done and having the whole she-bang dyno tuned by SKR. Also have to put in the Walbro and some 05 WRX 380cc injectors prior to the SKR tune.
I've also got some new front discs and pads sitting at Agostino Mitsubishi for me to pick up and install. Then this Tuesday I've got the car booked in for all the belts, water pump, plugs and coolant to be done. Little bit over the 75k timing belt interval (@90k) but it should be fine... Famous last words... touch wood etc, etc...
Oh yeh, there's the Samco intake pipe on it's way over from the Blighty as well.

Main thing is to get the 3 port tuned prior to getting down to SKR, should be a bit cheaper for just a dyno tune rather than workshop time as well.

Then again, Macca/Rokku can we scale in the new 380cc injectors and Forge Wastegate while we're at it? That'll save even more workshop time.
One reason the Tactrix was so fast to get here was that the office is now in SoCal USA, not far from a major FedEx facility. Still impressively short delivery time though!

With all this bolt on stuff I'm hoping to see 150kW atw post dyno tune, we'll see... It was at 106kW atw prior to getting an RPW mail order tune.

[rokkuchan]

eh injectors? Well i can follow this guide using method #2 - page 71.
http://www.evoscan.com/ecuflash/Merlins%20EcuFlash%20EVO%207-8-9%20TUNING%20GUIDE-V1.7a.pdf

but u dont have afr wideband it's quite hard to do it. Not sure how big the risk is man.

I'm more worried about the latency settings. Either i calculate on a ratio basis looking at what others have in the Evo's i.e RC650cc values and then calculate the ratito and reduce the voltage base on that ratio?? With scaling, merlin guide said to scale them 15-20% of (380cc or 440cc)?

but every injector is different. Since u have the wrx injectors, I can get the stock wrx injector latency values and make calculations from that?

I'm still studyng the merlin guide trying to get my head around....


edit: just random googling, found somewhere Cobb recommended to scale the injectors first and leave the latency stock.

[odysseyesm]

Yeh well the RPW stuff won't be here before the weekend...
Just checked the Startrack Express site and it's not scheduled for delivery until the 23rd.
Why does it take 4 days from the USA to Adelaide and 6 days from Perth to Adelaide?

I guess the only answer is use FedEx...

Rokku - no biggy on the injectors, we can just stick with the 3 port.

[rokkuchan]

Australia is the land of opportunity for high paid jobs and slackness. Or no jobs but still get paid.

[wombat]

Then this Tuesday I've got the car booked in for all the belts, water pump, plugs and coolant to be done. Little bit over the 75k timing belt interval (@90k) but it should be fine... Famous last words... touch wood etc, etc...

Let me know how that goes Darren, i'm due for timing belt etc as well. You got the whole timing kit and kaboodle from Jesse Streeter as well, yeah? If it all fits without any drama, will have to order that kit from Japan as well (soooo much cheaper than AUS dealer prices)...need to pass on the ordering details to me.

[Macca]

Nice man nice.

Also, Timing belt is due at 100k kms not 75k

In my service book there is a separate coupon for the 100k timing belt change.

even the little spread sheet says 100k kms or 60 months / 5 years

[black_ice]

In my log book it says to timing belt needs to be replaced at 75000km

[rokkuchan]

Hey can we do the stuff at Coro's place :) his place is bigger and he has all the tools we need :)

Chris yeah??

[odysseyesm]

Hey can we do the stuff at Coro's place :) his place is bigger and he has all the tools we need :)

Chris yeah??

Dude aint there... He's currently in WA working at the new Gig.

[rokkuchan]

Oh shit yeah that's right! haha.

[Corosith]

Bummer hey, bit far away atm!

[odysseyesm]

Don't worry about Yin - we'll just do the Tactrix 'cause all the other gear most likely won't arrive in time.

[Geebung71]

Nice on Ody. Sounds like the wheels in motion for some rapid progress performance wise, good to see. very interested in results as you work through the plan. Keep us posted

Man I gotta get that exhaust fitted soon!

[odysseyesm]

Rapid progress now but it took 12mths For me to get to here.
If it wasn't for the work done by Daed, RPW and a few other key players on this forum I'd be doin nothing bu a catback and some stickers.
Been busting a gut to get a tune since those guys cracked the ADM Colt ECU - respect from me.

[odysseyesm]

Check it out
Up to 350hp Water/Air intercooler. Seriously looking at it to reduce the length of the intake tract. Comes with most of the bits & optional water pipe with fittings.
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=216&products_id=1034&osCsid=8fbf0dc882b4d46e78a09419cad7d8e4

[rokkuchan]

Might be a hot day on Sunday.

wanna come at around 3pm? I gotta go see some house open inspections before then.

I will tune it until you're satisfied with the torque and power. What kinda tune did you want out of it?