Head Deck Removal & Panels

[stylo]

Hi guys,

Where is the sticky for head deck removal !?

Well, I'm gonna have a go at pulling the stock unit out for an inspection and taking a look at some options in replacing it.

What I can see so far is:

1) panel on dash - use spatula (great tip faux!)
2) silver inserts - these look like pop out parts
3) front panelling - there should be screws under (2)
4) a/c knobs
5) unscrew head deck + 1 x 10mm bolt (extension reqd)
6) once you reach this stage and you have a 3.5mm (I think) male extension cable handy, you can run it to your glove box for your AUX IPooD etc. or better yet, throw away the piece of junk and get an aftermarket deck

Thx macca

[stylo]

Found these in the tech section - why not in stereo modification section ?!

Tutorial: How To Remove Centre Top Dash Panel
http://www.rcolt.com/showthread.php?t=459

Removing the Original Stereo
http://www.rcolt.com/showthread.php?t=1329

Remove Stereo Fascia?
http://www.rcolt.com/showthread.php?t=81&highlight=remove+stereo

EDIT

This one is good too

Car Stereo Modification
http://www.rcolt.com/showthread.php?t=37&page=5&highlight=remove+stereo

EDIT

Goddam, there are quite a few good threads on this, but just not in the stereo section !!!

Macca's R COLT! :D
http://www.rcolt.com/showthread.php?t=612&page=2
(see post 23, this has a great pic, thanks Macca)

EDIT

F*ck I'm blind
http://www.rcolt.com/showthread.php?t=1904

[kalt]

Can we put this thread in the "How To..." section please (this is the only post that I can find that explicitly states removal of the 10mm bolt, which made me spend 15 mins thinking why my stereo 'stuck' - thanks stylo)

Also, if you buy an aftermarket ICE system that has "ISO" connectors the Aerpro APP0111 is the correct harness for plug and play, no soldering needed.

http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=APP0111&cat_name=harnesses&cat_no=10&cat_sno=

If your ICE only comes with bare wire harness then the Aerpro APP7011 should suit, and you'll need to solder/wire up.

[Macca]

Aerpro also sell ISO to different branded head units.

But its cheaper to just solder the two harness's

[stylo]

Finally got around to changing the front speakers over from the stockies to some Boston SL65s

This is the best set of instructions for "How To" remove door panels:
http://www.rcolt.com/showthread.php?460-Tutorial-How-To-Remove-Front-Door-Panels

Only need to add that you should try not to fck up and leave any of the white trim clips on the door because they are really hard to take out whilst still stuck in the door. I modified a fork and used that do remove the clips should this happen to you. They are $3.70 from Mitsubishi spare parts to replace. That's $3.70 EACH.

http://img815.imageshack.us/img815/1840/img2315medium.jpg

6.5" speakers fit fine just fine - no cutting required anywhere. Boston supplied a circular panel which had a few screw holes positioned on it. This made it such that I did not need any MDF spacers made up and I just lined it up with the four OEM screw holes. Nice.

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/2323/img2286medium.jpg
http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/8295/img2295medium.jpg
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/364/img2289medium.jpg

The stock front speakers ... really are shit...

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/4093/img2328medium.jpg

I chopped, spliced and soldered the connecting wires so it should be sweet.

The deck I installed quite a while ago is an Eclipse CD3200 and it's a pretty nice unit with Bluetooth, remote control yada yada ..

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/8571/img2332medium.jpg

I might add an amp and removable sub later on. Hope this post can help someone on the forum - any questions on panel removal, parts, speakers, feel free to ask.

[Macca]

Nice, I have noticed most the cheaper 6.5" speakers fit, I only own expensive massive ones that had no way of fitting haha even my 5.25"ers are bigger than the stock hole lol

Also you will hate that head unit soon.......It damn vibrates and has a rattle from the face plate.

I have the next one up looks identical , but mine had all the SQ features, a copper chassis and no internal amp, must be run with external amps, oh and the iPod controller

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/Macca_gong/IMG_0527.jpg

[stylo]

Nice ! no problems with my head deck man ... no rattles ..

[kalt]

Only need to add that you should try not to fck up and leave any of the white trim clips on the door because they are really hard to take out whilst still stuck in the door. I modified a fork and used that do remove the clips should this happen to you. They are $3.70 from Mitsubishi spare parts to replace. That's $3.70 EACH.

http://img815.imageshack.us/img815/1840/img2315medium.jpg

Nice photos :) regarding the clips, maybe these could fit at a fraction of the cost

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRIMP-PAD-CLIPS-INTERIOR-TRIM-FASTENERS-CAR-AUTOMOTIVE-/330540176273?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cf5bad391#ht_3356wt_872

, but need to wait for shipping whereas the original Mitsubishi units are stock on hand.

I need to get some for another car, so will probably have 48 spare haha

[stylo]

fark that's so cheap .. that's for FIFTY !! spare part prices in Oz suck !

I didn't end up needing any as I didn't damage any

[kalt]

I haven't tried the local automotive parts places yet, it's not as simple as searching on eBay, got to do a lot of legwork. But I'm guessing audio installers would know of where to get these and other fasteners pretty easily, but whether or not they're willing to share this info, I dunno.

Ps. That eBay seller autoperformanceonline has a huge catalog of goodies! That listing stated they have a mixed pack of fasteners available too, but after 30+ pages of looking and what seems be be an hour, still haven't found them!

[lovecolt]

Nice Les, finally see some work done on your work. Still surprise me to know your car haven't change at all since I last saw it :p