1/4 mile times

[Keith Anderson]

Hi I'm new here and looking the the Ralliart Colt. But nowhere have I ever seen 0-100 or 1/4 mile times posted for this little hatch. I'm guessing in the 8sec bracket and around 15-16 sec quarters but anyone taken theirs down the 1/4 mile or seen offical figures

Thanks

Such kool little cars

[Raymond6]

The Hero "Motor Magazine" from Australia in it's October 2006 edition Bang for your bucks competition Awarded the Mitsubishi Colt Ralliart: Best Small Preformace Car under $30,000 AUD their extensive testing reveiled:

The Rcolt pulled of a 0 to 100 kmph 7.4 seconds this was equal to the Ford XR5 Turbo. {Some say around 7.1s are achiveable}

The Rcolt Managed 15.30 seconds at 149.00 kmph for the standing 400m only .10 of a second slower than the XR5

The Polo was only able to achieve 0 to 100 kmph 7.8 & a 15.6 at 147.8 kmph for the standing 400m despite having 1.8 litre, engine.

God help us if the Colt had the Mitz 1.8 twin cam turbo Yeh hooo would be the call I bet!

The Colt out did the Polo in all categories and even bet the Mazda MX5 (8.10 Seconds 0-100), Ford Focus XR5 (7.4 seconds O-100)and Holden’s Astra Sri (7.50 seconds 0-100).

For those or us that have had a chance to give our Rcolt's a bit a stick I don't think that any of us would disagree that the above times are achiveable.

[shaneth]

To be honest, i think the ralliart should beat that. The figure quoted in motor magazine has already been beaten for the Polo. I have seen a time slip for 15.4 @141km/h for the polo bone stock. There are a lot of factors that can help or hinder in a drag run which hopefully could go to the Rcolts advantage. What is the weight of the RColt. Would be good to see one do a run. In a month or 2 i am going to go back down again when the weather is cooler if some QLD'ers are interested PM me.

[lovecolt]

Well....our euro CZT cousin done a 7.2 secs with their bone stock CZT which is very similar power-to-weight ratio. Hence, i too expect a 7 sec flat is possible with the right hands.

For myself, i doubt i can achieve anywhere near these figures anyway. I sucked at dragging a car.

[shaneth]

You would get close im sure lovecolt. Why do you suck. Do you have any timeslips you can show us. In cars like ours its not to hard to drag. All you have to do is Get a good reaction time and launch and change at the optimum rpm (not always redline).

[lovecolt]

Part of the reason why i said that is, the stock clutch on RColt sucks....at least to me. Lack of bite and no feel. Then, its our 1st / 2nd gear ratio issue. 1st gear is too high and 2nd too low. This creates a big drop of power when you change from 1st to 2nd. Hence, i never bother to try.

Then comes the most important thing, which is i don't dare to launch my car hard :( Same when i had my 200sx. Hence i'm always slower than a 1L car at the lights.....

[VipMartie]

I did the quarter mile (402m) measured by a G-tech on air stripp.

Ended up with 15,16 sec with stock car, except for my 17" rim, running on 215/40 Dunlop UltraPerformance tyres :) . The speed passing finishline was 95mph (should be around 152km/h). :)

My recommendation is not the throwing the car up to the top reevs when starting the count down, which many does and then drops the clutch at "go".
We have the advantage of the anti spinn system helping out this time, so use it well...

I use to rev it to about 3500rpm (or a bit over), which is the point for strongest torque for our Euro.T's (210Nm/3500rpm). Then at go, try to use your feeling... and feeling only! Release the clutch as fast as possible without the tyres spinning, your anti spinn should help you out as well too. It's hard, but you have to practice...

Another method I used once before is to hit the brakes at count down... (this mothod is only used by feeling). Then hit the throttle quite hard and release the clutch the same way as mentioned above... really do try to get as less spinn as possible... I am not really aware of what I do since I am only going by feeling, but I think I'm not pushing the throttle all the way down until the clutch is all up...

I'm far from being a pro, but just hoping these tips would be good... practice hard :)

Good luck!

[R3X]

hi guys, i believe u guys are launching with asc ?

i am doing 5.82 seconds for my century with asc switched off.

1.1 bar boosting. shifting correctly from 1 - 2 is the trick.

[shaneth]

how does the traction control in the Colt work. Does it limit the revs, brake the wheels......

[lovecolt]

Here's what written on the Ralliart Colt Brochure:

"The Active Stability Control (ASC), which incorporates Active Traction Control (ATC) ...... it works by taking vital information from such things as the Steering Angle Sensor and the Wheel Speed Sensor to automatically adjust any unstable movements or shifts. It then distributes the appropriate power or brakeforce to each individual wheel, thus minimising any wheel spin and ultimately maxmising vehicle control"

Therefore, it controls kinda like Evo, but just not as sofiscated as the AYC + ACD.

[lovecolt]

hi guys, i believe u guys are launching with asc ?

i am doing 5.82 seconds for my century with asc switched off.

1.1 bar boosting. shifting correctly from 1 - 2 is the trick.

Well....first of all, i haven't launch my car before. Hence no idea :p But for VIPMartie, he's driving a 3 dr Colt CZT and they don't have asc on their car.

[shaneth]

SO if i read that correctly. If you loose traction it will apply the brakes. Which in a drag, is the last thing you want to do. I'm no expert at drags. Only about 20 - 30 runs up my sleeve. You stage, pull the handbrake on and then dial up the required rpm and have the car sitting on the clutch engagement point. When the last orange hits, you drop the Hand brake and fan the clutch out. GOOD AS GOLD. :)

[lovecolt]

That is why you switch off the ASC when you need to drag.

[R3X]

That is why you switch off the ASC when you need to drag.

You are learning fast.

Try it without ASC and let us know your century. :)

[lovecolt]

I might learn fast, but i will still not try it :D Too poor to change clutch soon ;)

[27AME]

thats why we have 10 year power train warranty ;)

[lovecolt]

thats why we have 10 year power train warranty ;)

Sorry to say, but our clutch is not covered in the warranty. Its considered as a wear and tear item.

[27AME]

Actually your wrong and they're lying to you. They have even told me that everything on the STANDARD vehicle is covered by warranty.

Anything mechanical within the drivetrain is also covered.

Going by your theory, they could claim the engine is a 'wear and tear' item.

[lovecolt]

Actually your wrong and they're lying to you. They have even told me that everything on the STANDARD vehicle is covered by warranty.

Anything mechanical within the drivetrain is also covered.

Going by your theory, they could claim the engine is a 'wear and tear' item.

That is correct. But this also depend on when it failed and how. Do you even think they will replace your clutch by warranty if they found out its caused by severe dumping of clutch (quite obvious when you took the clutch out). Or do you think they will change your clutch if its a 3 - 4 yrs car??

[27AME]

If mazda will replace my gearbox and clutch on a car that they'd believed had been abused, then I think mitsubishi would replace a clutch on a car they consider to be part of the 'performance' class.

[Keith Anderson]

No they will not change a clutch on a car that has been misused. I used to work for Mitsubishi. A clutch if abused does not come under any type of warranty and either does you engine if it is found to have been mistreated. A burnt clutch ie blue is the first thing they look at, if it's burnt out your paying end of story.

It is covered by warranty under normal conditions, you go boy racing and your no longer covered.

[VipMartie]

Well....first of all, i haven't launch my car before. Hence no idea :p But for VIPMartie, he's driving a 3 dr Colt CZT and they don't have asc on their car.

Hmmm, if you mean the ASC, that I think is the system for minimizing wheels spinn off... then we do have it on our CZT... and we cannot even turn it "off", it's "on" all the time. :mad:


SO if i read that correctly. If you loose traction it will apply the brakes. Which in a drag, is the last thing you want to do. I'm no expert at drags. Only about 20 - 30 runs up my sleeve. You stage, pull the handbrake on and then dial up the required rpm and have the car sitting on the clutch engagement point. When the last orange hits, you drop the Hand brake and fan the clutch out. GOOD AS GOLD.

The handbrake thing is another choice too, but I like to have my hand on the gear stick prepered ;)

Then about the traction controll... if you lose traction on the wheels the car will NOT apply the brakes... it would just disable the power from the engine to the wheels. ;) Making your front wheels spinning at the same speed as the rear once... easy to calculate, if your rear is going slower than your front, then your front must be spinning... so the ECU will block the power to match it with the rear wheels ;)

[lovecolt]

i mean Active Stability Control. The minimizing wheel spin should be ATC (active traction control)

[shaneth]

Active Traction Control (ATC), an intelligent system that electronically senses if one wheel is losing traction and then sends extra power to the other wheel, keeping you moving.
Active Stability Control (ASC) keeps you in control by automatically recognising understeer or oversteer and applying braking to the diagonal wheel, so you stay on line through tough corners.
Sports suspension, exterior and styling.

So your ATC is similar to a LSD in a way by the way that reads just electronic. But i still wouldnt be relying on that to get your quickest time down he quarter mile.

What i dont understand is
Making your front wheels spinning at the same speed as the rear once... easy to calculate, if your rear is going slower than your front, then your front must be spinning... so the ECU will block the power to match it with the rear wheels surely you mean your left and your right whel not front and back. Although in thery it would be the same anyway.


The handbrake thing is another choice too, but I like to have my hand on the gear stick prepered . I used to be the same but was told about the advantages of the hand brake and changed, after all how long does it take to get your hand from the hand brake to gear knob. And by having the handbrake you eliminate and chance of running the lights. But each to there own i guess what ever works for you.

[lovecolt]

So your ATC is similar to a LSD in a way by the way that reads just electronic. But i still wouldnt be relying on that to get your quickest time down he quarter mile.


Actually, its the whole ATC & ASC that works like a electronic LSD. And you are right about not relying on it to get the quickest time. Hence mechanical LSD FTW :D

[shaneth]

yep agreed Mechanical LSD is the way to go. Has one been made for the Colt.

[27AME]

^^^ yep Cusco make a 1 way for the RColt.

[VipMartie]

i mean Active Stability Control. The minimizing wheel spin should be ATC (active traction control)

Ahh, you mean the one that we prefer to call "Anti drift control"? :D

It prevents the car to go sideways, right? We have that one too if that is the case :D

The anti spinn and anti drift is standard on our Euro.T's and can unfortenately not be disconnected :mad:

[booga]

guys my stock colt turbo will b going down the strip in the next few weeks
ill keep u updated

[lovecolt]

Wow! you are brave. At least let the car run in before dragging it ;) But keep us inform of the times.

[27AME]

whoever said to do the 1/4 with ASC off is wayyy off the mark...

I tried it, Wheelspin + Smoke through 1st and 2nd... in 1st it sat there for a good 5 seconds on redline just bagging up