Adjusting the actuator arm

[Julz]

Want more boost?
Adjust the actuator arm

http://coltclub.eu/forum/index.php?showtopic=1069

[Julz]

hrmm just finished reading some of the thread on the coltclub.eu site - basically involves shortening the actuator arm which results in higher boost.

[fauxpas]

Hey, that forum has a shoutbox!

[trevski]

LOL, did this once by bending the arm on a Dash engined Cordia...

It went REALLY hard for about 20 min! and then started filling streets with white smoke before it died and got left at the wreckers...

Fine for a $500 dunger cordia's last half an hour on earth... wouldn't recommend it on a new colt

[Julz]

LOL, did this once by bending the arm on a Dash engined Cordia...

It went REALLY hard for about 20 min! and then started filling streets with white smoke before it died and got left at the wreckers...

Fine for a $500 dunger cordia's last half an hour on earth... wouldn't recommend it on a new colt

ROFL
i've been reading up on this, i think each turn you shorten it by gives around 1psi?

[trevski]

Yeah some old dood sold it to his mechanics apprentice, a mate of mine

We got bored and decided it needed some ghetto modification, prolly bent it a little too far and I think it came off, guess running with no wastegate actuator would send the boost toward 2 bar and serious failure...

Like I said, was good fun tho!

Reckon there is easier more reliable ways to get more boost

[Frogman]

Sounds cool... I'll have a look at that tomorrow...

Wonder if our actuator is the same?

[Frogman]

Who's to say that this isn't what the tmr mod is?

And yes I'm being VERY optimistic...

[Julz]

Who's to say that this isn't what the tmr mod is?

And yes I'm being VERY optimistic...

could be part of the TMR mod but im pretty sure they do something to the vacuum lines as well. Might be a combination of a bleed valve AND an adjustment to the wastegate actuator rod.

Makes sense because none of the guys with a MBC have been able to get even close to 16psi without setting off the CEL.

I've been reading up and it's a common way of adjusting boost - it's actually the only way you can do it if you get a new turbo anyway. Some newer cars may actually just open the wastegate anyway if the boost gets too much as they use a solonoid to control it. I know the colt probably uses a solonoid but i'm not sure if it has this safety feature.

For those who do try this mod, make sure you reconnect the actuator rod!!!! If you don't you'll basically be testing the engine and turbo to see how much boost it can take before blowing up!

[Frogman]

Had a play with it and I'm thinking it might have been loosened and not tightened but first attempt was crap... peaked at 10 psi

I'll give it another go and see what happens.

[eatevo]

you'll have to tighten the nut to get more boost, so it takes longer to open the waste gate. You'll find the limit when CEL comes up. Guys from the euro forum only managed to get 3psi more with the nut fully tighten. Each car acts differently so monitor that boost gauge.

[Frogman]

It worked! I have experienced 14.5 psi!

No CEL as of yet and I just flogged the crap outta it. I also found that making it incredibly loose made the waste gate fully open and no boost... was interesting... will keep everyone updated

[Julz]

It worked! I have experienced 14.5 psi!

No CEL as of yet and I just flogged the crap outta it. I also found that making it incredibly loose made the waste gate fully open and no boost... was interesting... will keep everyone updated

cool thanks for testing this for us! Do you have an Air/fuel ratio gauge? might want to check that the car isn't leaning out too much.

Also with high boost in winter it's less dangerous than in summer. Might want to keep that in mind when summer comes around again

[Frogman]

Unfortunately I don't have a air/fuel ratio gauge... I'm hoping the ECU takes care of it.

Its good watching the boost gauge, it spikes up around 14 psi at 3000 rpm and then drops to around 11-12 psi as the revs go up... it sounds very nice too.

It almost seems as though there is a bit more turbo lag which is slightly disappointing

If you do try this and have an atmo bov then make sure you have it nice and tight... it makes a HUGE sound now!

[Julz]

hahaha take it easy, don't want to blow up the engine.

perhaps start filling it up with 98 octane fuel to help reduce likelyhood of detonation

[Frogman]

I only do run 98 octane...

If I drive it like I normally do it seems like I haven't even done anything... its only when I drive it harder does it do all the cool stuff

[Frogman]

Still no CEL light after 150 kms... have tested it on highway and on city driving and is still good.

and as an added bonus I "borrowed" a air/fuel ratio gauge from a mate at autobarn and if anything it leans a little toward the rich side but clearly staying in stoich ratio...

[27AME]

I think the TMR mod MAY have been uncovered...

[Frogman]

I think the TMR mod MAY have been uncovered...

At least part of it... I would like to know the rest of it...

[why_bother]

I think the TMR mod MAY have been uncovered...

I was thinking that myself for a minute, but the TMR mod is still spiking way higher than 14.5psi, in fact most guys are getting that through the entire rev range. I believe the wastegate actuator has something to do with it, but there's something else TMR install which I'm not 100% sure of. Got an idea, but it's purely speculation. What you'd need, is to check out a dude who has mod done and see how far the nut is adjusted. I'll check it out later on. 14.5psi spike compared to nearly 19psi spike is a fair difference though (see the videos posted in the visual fest section).

When I first saw this post I shuddered and thought people were doing dogey bending or cutting the arm like I've seen on other forums.. lucky people here aren't that stupid.

[Frogman]

I wouldn't do anything that crazy... but since it is just the tightening of some thing I think it should b fine.

And as its only stopping the boost from bleeding out the wastegate it can't b that bad

[why_bother]

Guys scratch that last idea. To get to adjust that nut, you'd have to remove the exhaust shroud.

TMR did NOT remove that shroud. Do any of the SA guys remember seeing that shroud come off on saturday? Sorry, I think we shattered that one.. I thought we were onto something there.

I took a photo as best I could if I had my old camera it'd be sharper than 10 sharp things, I counted about 4 ridges (and I couldn't even see them all from that angle). There was probably a couple more, I'd say there's just under 2cm between where the nut sits now and the end of the thread. There's quite a shadow cast over the thread because of the combination of the camera angle and the torch angle. In turns, I'm not sure what that'd be, but it'd be quite a few. Hrmrhrm, next!

[fauxpas]

Isn't that shroud held in place with rusty bolts?

Surely those with the mod could see if the bolts have been violated lately...

[why_bother]

Isn't that shroud held in place with rusty bolts?

Surely those with the mod could see if the bolts have been violated lately...

It hasn't ... whoa, i have blue text.


Just read your post and checked, they haven't been touched.

i feel angry now with this blue text, got.. urge.. national... park... fight it... ah shit, i went all hulk again. hope the neighbours like army tanks

[fauxpas]

Nurse! Medication! :D

[aby82]

lol tmr_colt :D

this actuator arm discovery is very interesting :)

[Julz]

actually im surprised this didnt come up sooner... i just remembered about what adjusting the actuator arm actually does from my old turbo days :P


another trick to getting more out of your car is to either fit a rising rate fuel pressure regulator (might help you get rid of the CELs), fit higher flow injectors (the ones from the old mitsubishi magnas should fit this block i think?), or something dodgy but free is to use a vice and a blunt point (maybe the flat end of a nail?) to compress the stock fuel pressure regulator to make it increase the fuel pressure. I read about it ages ago in some book

[Geo_x]

Unfortunately I don't have a air/fuel ratio gauge... I'm hoping the ECU takes care of it.

Its good watching the boost gauge, it spikes up around 14 psi at 3000 rpm and then drops to around 11-12 psi as the revs go up... it sounds very nice too.

It almost seems as though there is a bit more turbo lag which is slightly disappointing

If you do try this and have an atmo bov then make sure you have it nice and tight... it makes a HUGE sound now!

What's the boost pressure at 5.500rpm and at the rev limit (~6.700rpm)???

[Frogman]

It close to 10 psi Geo_X...

P.s. Has anyone seen the zorst manifold? My poo looks prettier than that!

[Adam]

If the fuel is leaning out with high boost a fuel reg would do (sard, malpassi etc). Bending the OEM one is not the best of ideas.

Personally I am waiting for Haltech to finish off the piggy back ecu so we can adjust fuel boost etc etc

Also be careful with playing around with the actuator on the turbo, you can get a small gain (too much boost the cel will go off) but have a big problem if you over boost the engine.

[Steve-B]

theres a large list of injectors that fit including WRX injectors.

[Julz]

theres a large list of injectors that fit including WRX injectors.

do the WRX injectors fit straight in without any modifications needed to the fuel rail?

Does anyone know the flow rate of the stock injectors?

Boost up to 16psi should be ok as this is what the TMR mod does. As far as I'm aware there are no fuel mods done/required to sustain 16psi.

[Steve-B]

then no need to change them,

[emperor]

ok froggy, i want you to be able to make it for your next cruise so i will warn you now.

you should find out the turbo's CFM and max PSI ratings so that you are not outside the efficiency range of the turbo, 16psi is really starting to get in to the high boost area so please lets check this out before we break something :D

i would say that you are safe as TMR are running 16pound but lets just be safe :cool:

[Frogman]

After much searching I have found that the turbo can pump out to nearly 22 psi :O

So I am assuming that the 14.5 is ok...

I don't think that I'd wanna shorten it any more.

[why_bother]

When my car was boosting to 1.5 bar, I rang TMR. They said to take the car back immediately to adjust it. I wouldn't recommend running anywhere near 22psi. Can't see why 14.5 would be a problem.

[ommeh]

1.5bar :eek: :eek: :eek:

Man this sounds like an insane mod but a very very dodgy one. I really cant stress my worries to you!

But i do admit it is a great find non the less.

[disguy2k]

You have to be a bit more careful with the colt engine, as it's compression ratio is alot higher than most engines. (Increases chance of detonation) from memory the colt is 10:1 compression, whereas 4G63 is 8.5:1 and runs peak boost around 14.5 to 20 PSI. The more modern engines have much better fuel mapping than the VR4-Evo 3 variety.

[Frogman]

The only way 22 psi would be getting into the engine is if I shortened the acuator arm... all I have done is tighten it .

If TMR are running 16 then 14.5 is fine by me.

It still works the same, just not as much boost is allowed to bleed out.

[Frogman]

I'll post up a video this arvo showing the boost gauge in action ;)

[widge]

Another thing guys if the TMR mod is maxing at nearly 19psi going up to 14.5 wouldnt matter about AFR's TMR doesnt do anything to the fuelling at all

[z0n3]

Another thing guys if the TMR mod is maxing at nearly 19psi going up to 14.5 wouldnt matter about AFR's TMR doesnt do anything to the fuelling at all

maxing at 19 psi... which rpm would that be.. i suppose it drops from 19 psi.. to ... 10 or less psi at WOT at high RPMS? can anyone verify?

[widge]

Yeah sorry its spiking to 19psi i read it in another thread so if its spiking that high and holding say 14.5-15.5 psi then dropping off with no ECU or Fuel mod then we can try and get that Boost figure our selves without worrying.

[Spaceboy]

i'd like to see a dyno comparison

[Frogman]

I was wondering... has anyone else done this?

[Rallimags]

Hey Frogman, how did you remove the sensor from the exhaust so you could get the exhaust shield off? and also, how many turns did you tighten the acuator arm? Any info would be great as i have read in performance mags on cheap boost mods that this method is an easy one.

cheers

[Frogman]

About 4-5 full turns... I'm thinking I can get a bit more boost if I lose the locknut and tighten it more...
I left the sensors all plugged in... but be careful of the brackets holding the wires to the heatshield... they break easily

[eatevo]

Another thing guys if the TMR mod is maxing at nearly 19psi going up to 14.5 wouldnt matter about AFR's TMR doesnt do anything to the fuelling at all

TMR has never spiked to 19psi. 16 is max with 13-14psi held to redline.

[Frogman]

TMR has never spiked to 19psi. 16 is max with 13-14psi held to redline.

I nearly have that now... 15.5 and 12-13 held til redline

[Frogman]

Done... got 15.5 psi... and getting it dynoed next week

[widge]

TMR has never spiked to 19psi. 16 is max with 13-14psi held to redline.

There was a guy in another thread that said his was spiking to 1.3bar (18.8psi) then slowly coming back down to 13-14psi

[widge]

Done... got 15.5 psi... and getting it dynoed next week

So how tight did you go to get that boost level? And also whats it hold at redline?

[Frogman]

Took the end nut off and the locknut then put the end nut back on with out the locknut and fully tightened it... scary in the wet and holds boost really well

[why_bother]

There was a guy in another thread that said his was spiking to 1.3bar (18.8psi) then slowly coming back down to 13-14psi

I didn't just say it, I put a video up of it. The car only has the TMR mod done. Before you ask, I haven't touched a single thing on the engine. I am not going to do dodgey backyard, homegrown mods that don't carry any R & D value whatsoever. The car is stock with the TMR mod. Stock air filter, stock exhaust, stock computer, stock intercooler, stock intake piping, no TS MBC, no flash, no aftermarket computer.

On the day the TMR mod got done here with the rest of the guys, it turns out that the colt I own has a lot of subtle differences. I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing at this stage. There's a list of differences somewhere on one of the threads.

If I could stick a video of the entire rev range up I would, but the filesize is too large even after renaming it. I'm going out now to pick my missus up, I'll try take another video of the gauge (if i can hold it steady etc) and we'll work out what to do with it. The boost gauge goes all over the place, and depending on outside temperature it does some pretty interesting things.

[Frogman]

I'll take some vids tonite too... show how good the actuator arm mod is.

[Rallimags]

Thanks frogman. will do some tinkering this sunday......

[why_bother]

Apologies for the shit video, but that's just how it is with a mobile phone.

1st video - taking off in 1st, about 640pm, dry road, somewhere around 16 degrees. Hard to keep boost up at the end of first because of wheelspin. (sound)

2nd video - taking off in 1st gear again, same conditions but no wheelspin (different part of the same road) spiked to about 1.15 bar, sat on 0.9 then changed gear.(no sound)

3rd video - 2nd gear, rolling start, spiked to 1.2 bar, slid down to about 0.75 bar. Why? I don't know. (with sound)

4th video - 2nd gear again, rolling start (higher speed than the last one). Spikes to 1.1bar, sits steady on 0.9 bar (no sound)

5th video - 3rd gear (not sure what speed. I think about 70kmph) spikes to a bees dick under 1.3 bar then the camera on the mobile phone went into 'standby mode' because of a nearly flat battery.

All of these videos were taken tonight, do with them what you will. You will need to remove the .zip file extension from the end of the filename for these to work.

[Julz]

the actuator mod is FAR from dodgy, it exists so you CAN tune the turbo for different levels of boost.
Since the TMR mod doesn't alter fuel pressure, this is pretty much the same thing.

[why_bother]

Put yourself in this position...

You're an engineer, you've spent years doing a relatively involved university degree, and are now paid some massive amount of money to design component/system #xyz.

In your professional opinion as an experienced engineer, a lock nut is required to be included #xyz.

Go back a step and ask yourself what a locknut actually does.


My question to you, is:

What do you think the reason is that the engineer has put a locknut on this particular part?

Mate this isn't meant to be patronizing in any way, I'm confident you're a knowledgable person who is quite technically minded.. But sometimes questions like these need to be asked. It's there for a reason, and removing it could result in catastrophic failure. By doing this you've adjusted the mechanical limit set by the manufacturer and removed the locking nut that held that limit where it's supposed to be.

The TMR mod has had hours of testing with people that do it every day, engineers even. They set up race cars for a living, you, me, tom dick & harry down the street don't. I'm not an engineer, not sure if you are but there's no fucking way I'd tinker with stuff like that myself.

Failing that, tell me where to stick it.

[Frogman]

I know what you are thinking but there is no way that nut is going anywhere...
For one, the locknut was not that tight to begin with
And now the nut is bloody tight and unless it can bust through the thread on the arm itself then I have a problem but seeing as though its f'ing tight and held there with a split pin I don't see it coming off

here is the vid too...

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa102/thefrogman/th_MOV00225.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa102/thefrogman/?action=view&current=MOV00225.flv)

[efti]

^^^^

impressive mate...the car feel alot more powerfull or what?


i had the best boost trick on my 200sx, was literlly change in ruber hose 10cm in length
your boost goes up from 7 to 12-13

i didnt do it till i had cooler and exaust though

but yea every car has a little trick

vl turbos the cops used the acurator, just boosted them up standard...and alot of those are still working today...boost is boost if your running 16 psi or someone is doin it with a controler or tmr
all do the same thing

[fauxpas]

Good luck to anyone who;

1. Gets it right
2. Never gets CEL
3. Never has to do a warranty claim on some catastrophic failure and explain the adjustments and CEL logs...

Speaking to Alan, what we are paying for in the TMR power mod is time dedicated to tuning up the boost across the range yet shying under CEL...

Cheesy 'one size fits all' boost controllers and the like will bump the boost up but spike to the point of CEL when the boost is where you want it. This actuator arm thing may be an avenue to cheap, or free thrills, but I'm not willing to blow warranty and reliability for cheap thrills...

Good luck for anyone playing with this...

[efti]

^^^

no one is telling you to do it
or denying tmrs development.

[Frogman]

after much searching on the net i have found that HEAPS of tuners do this... i know the locknut thing is not my smartest idea but i can fix it...

it pulls heaps more and i am keeping it...

[fauxpas]

^^^

no one is telling you to do it
or denying tmrs development.

Touchy? lol...

[Frogman]

well i haven't had CEL and i drive fairly hard...

if Subaru WRX STi guys and Skyline guys do it without problems then i still don't see a problem...

HKS even make an actuator with an adjustable arm.

:D :D :D

[efti]

Touchy? lol...

lol is that the smartest thing u have to say
why would i be touchy...im driving my car stock

i could easily go to tmr and get the mod seeing that im in melb and i could easily play with the car myself
but atm i dont give a sht so i aint doin neither :D

[Julz]

too much hostility here

sure the TMR mod is good and all, no denying it.

This is just an option for those who don't want to (or can't) get it done by TMR.

so much for creating an open and sharing environment... :rolleyes:

[Steve-B]

in no 2 ways, faux ( tony ) is saying that it sounds dodgey, but on the flip side it has been documented to work. I wouldnt try it as i dont know alot about the life of boost and how it works internally with a turbo and wastegate. But what tony is saying, is if you do your research and do this / get it to work, it may give you the desired effect but sometimes things can go wrong. If you are wanting to keep warranty go TMR, if you want to do Alot of research before jumping into a modification that may be easy, but you dont understand, there are pitfalls there that may not be as transparent as they could be.

no need to get overlly testy about these things. everyones different.

[killercolt]

Just spent about 1hour fine tuning the actuator arm with the help of my brother and best boost we could get is now a constant 7psi right through the rev range with no drop off.

[z0n3]

Just spent about 1hour fine tuning the actuator arm with the help of my brother and best boost we could get is now a constant 7psi right through the rev range with no drop off.cool!!! That's great!!! I guess this answers my questions on how to hold boost through to redline :) hehe..

btw, i am guessing you are:

1. going WOT
2. hitting a higher psi .. and then tapering off to hold at 7 psi through the rest of the rev range

cheers mate :)

[killercolt]

No goes up to 7psi and that were it stays till i change gears wont drop off as it did before.

[why_bother]

I might be reading that wrong, are you saying you're only getting 7psi throughout the entire rev range?

The colts usually hold .5~.7 bar in stock trim if I remember correctly. I must be reading that wrong, because 7psi (roughly 0.5bar) isn't actually any difference at all is it? What type of scale does your boost gauge run in, PSI or Bar? Not getting mixed up with 0.7bar are ya?

[Frogman]

I thought that sounded strange too... if it was 7 psi that sounds more like a down grade...

[z0n3]

I thought that sounded strange too... if it was 7 psi that sounds more like a down grade...

*nod*.. which was why I sought to clarify...

[Frogman]

I was checking out some conversions and found
1.2 bar equals 17.4 psi
1.1 bar equals 15.95 psi
1 bar equals 14.5 psi
0.9 bar equals 13.05 psi
0.8 bar equals 11.6 psi
0.7 bar equals 10.15 psi
0.6 bar equals 8.7 psi
0.5 bar equals 7.25 psi
0.4 bar equals 5.8 psi
0.3 bar equals 4.35 psi
0.2 bar equals 2.9 psi
0.1 bar equals 1.45 psi

Hope this helps...

It felt like I was back in school writing lines.

[killercolt]

i got a boost gauge that reads in psi and from day one the car has always maxed out at 7psi might spike to 10 but no more check for boost leaks and vacum leaks no present i think i got the car built on a friday arvo.Its one of the most uresponsive turbo cars i ever owened for mods.

[fauxpas]

Possibly the same issue with the car I first test drove and called a slug... and got flamed in here for...

[why_bother]

there was another dude on the site that had a dodgey boost gauge that did the same thing, could be that?

[Frogman]

Either check it out with a new gauge or get warranty :D

[Rallimags]

Hey Frogman, dumb question time. do you run any sort of manual boost controller at all in conjunction with the adjustment of the wastegate arm? I have an atomic MBC that i set to 12 to 12.5 psi (that was the reading i got prior to installing the mbc). i have adjusted the arm 4 turns (still got some adjustment left without taking the lock nut away, but not much) and it is reading 13.5psi. as the mbc is a bleed system which affects how much pressure is going to the actuator, i just don't know if there will be any side affects in your opinion.

Thanks

[widge]

Can someone post a pic of what needs to be tightened to do this please, thanks

[fauxpas]

From the colt.eu boys

http://www.burpitt.f2s.com/images/wastegate_rod.jpg

Right, here is the wastegate rod. If you was of the inclination to increase the spring rate on this:

1. Loosen/move exhaust manifold heat shield
2. Loosen 10mm nut on end of the rod
3. Using pliers pull out split pin
4. Pull rod off actuator (toward you off of its locating arm/pin)
5. Turn loose end of rod (with the hole in it) downwards, onto the thread.
6. Pull rod back onto mounting arm (can be tough, use pump-pliers or grips for ease).
7. Re-attach splitt pin and heat shield.
8. Go for a drive. Careful.

[Frogman]

So far I haven't had CEL with the actuator mod so I'm assuming that if there were any problems encountered it would be the usual ones associated with mbc...

[Rallimags]

So far I haven't had CEL with the actuator mod so I'm assuming that if there were any problems encountered it would be the usual ones associated with mbc...

just seeing if you are running an mbc as well, that's all.

[Frogman]

Nah no mbc for me...

[Frogman]

Still no CEL everything is good... booked in for 3 power runs on the dyno on friday...

[why_bother]

CEL isn't going off, that means it isn't spiking high enough, or run enough boost to set it off then. It's not just because it's got an MBC that the CEL goes off.

[Frogman]

WOO!!! Just got back the colt from the dyno... 144.4 hp at the wheelS! That's 107.1 kw!

I'll post up a pic of the dyno sheet later!

[widge]

From the colt.eu boys

http://www.burpitt.f2s.com/images/wastegate_rod.jpg

Right, here is the wastegate rod. If you was of the inclination to increase the spring rate on this:

1. Loosen/move exhaust manifold heat shield
2. Loosen 10mm nut on end of the rod
3. Using pliers pull out split pin
4. Pull rod off actuator (toward you off of its locating arm/pin)
5. Turn loose end of rod (with the hole in it) downwards, onto the thread.
6. Pull rod back onto mounting arm (can be tough, use pump-pliers or grips for ease).
7. Re-attach splitt pin and heat shield.
8. Go for a drive. Careful.

Thanks for that Faux now Running 15-16psi


WOO!!! Just got back the colt from the dyno... 144.4 hp at the wheelS! That's 107.1 kw!

I'll post up a pic of the dyno sheet later!

How much boost were you running?

thats a good figure

[Frogman]

here is the pic...

just took a photo of it, i'm too lazy to use the scanner plus i'd f@#ked if i know how to use the bloody thing... looks for advanced than a spaceship..

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa102/thefrogman/DSC00226.jpg

yes that says 15.5 psi! :D

[Julz]

did u get a dyno graph with air fuel ratio at all?
would be good to see

[Frogman]

no i didn't... it was just a power-run.

i did ask them about it though and they said everything was good with the car... only problem is the boost tapers away too quickly :(

[speedracer]

how tight were the nuts on your arm ? I just pulled my heat shield off to have a play and see what this is all about, but the locking nut on my arm seems tight as a nuns nasty...Im going to buy a smaller better tool to see if i can get in there with a better grip...I didnt want to try too hard incase i rounded the nut today. also I tried to loosen the tip part incase that made it easier to loosen the nut but the tip wouldnt turn either ?

[Frogman]

I have taken off the locknut and put on a bit of loc-tite instead... the other nut that connects to the actuator nipple is as tight as it goes.

[Frogman]

hey Rallimags i'll be running a turbosmart mbc soon so i'll let you know what happens ;)

[Rallimags]

hey Rallimags i'll be running a turbosmart mbc soon so i'll let you know what happens ;)

Nice hp on the wheels mate. I adjusted the actuator arm earlier this week and got to 14.5psi with the mbc on standard. i was about to wind it up a bit when it threw a cel. i think the cel came from the bov i was using. lasted approx 6 wks (2 weeks more than previous test) so i have put it back to standard bov. missing the sound.

I put the actuator arm back to standard and just did another 1/2 turn on the mbc and is now reading 14 - 14.5 psi. the torque is great, coming on nice and hard. Going to fiddle with the actuator arm today and also adjust the mbc to see if i can get 15.5 to 16psi without cel. I'll keep you posted as well.

[27AME]

Frogman I had my car dynoed at 113.9kW at the wheels. Was basically standard at the time too.

[74PIT]

okso adjusting this actuator arm at all can it damage our motor and how many times have you wound it in?

[27AME]

well obviously damage can be caused to engines through boost issues, this is no different. Damage can be caused by many different things.

[Frogman]

Tmr have put 16 pounds of boost through the engine so 15 pounds is fine... mine is as tight as it'll go too

[aby82]

look forward to seein it in action luke :)

[Frogman]

Yeah I'm running just over 16 pounds with mbc now... I'll have to take you for a spin

[tas74t]

adjusted today to about 2 1/2 turns.. feels a bit better i dont think i ll go any more until i get a boost gauge.. will check for the fuel consumption now.

[ommeh]

I'll be attempting this tomolow arvo. Just a small question. Should i run this without the MBC? Should i also run it without the pills?

is 15.5PSi what you class as a safe level?

I want to do this as i've got the cat back so i want to see if it actually has an effect or not. Froggy let me know asap :)

[Frogman]

I answered via pm... I have run around 18 psi with no problem on the colt for a fair while now... with just removal of the pill in the solenoid and adjusting the actuator arm... it will spike to 18 then drop to around 14 and hold.... lots of fun and no problems... I just need someone to test it with an a/f meter to be certain

[ommeh]

Good thing I got a a/f gauge Lol

[ommeh]

Just like to say i finally got round to doing this. I'm spiking at 1.1bar and holding at 0.9bar up the rev range. Need to remove the boost controller as frogman told me it causes a lot of lag. Thats gonna come out next week. As for A/F Ratio's. They didnt change much at all. Cars still running very rich and thats a good sign that more can be done to increase the power.

[why_bother]

hey mate just read your post, that's bizzarre that you said the MBC is causing lag, when I had a TS MBC fitted the turbo came on quicker & a lot stronger!

[ommeh]

yer thats what happened when i had my MBC installed. But once i changed the actuator arm and tightened it, the lag was a lot bigger. It would spool up normally but the power wasnt there and out of nowhere BOOM and your like at 120 lol.

I believe frogman experenced the same thing so i'm going to remove the MBC and just use the actuator mod for power. I still have the lock nut on it but i wanna take it off and tighten it a bit more.

[Spaceboy]

thanks for the information, i'll have to give it a try sometime.

[Frogman]

I got heaps of lag with the mbc and then the turbo would come on real hard and I got bad torque steer... it was fun for a while but I'd prefer a smoother, more predictable drive.

Have you removed the pill yet ommeh?

[ommeh]

Nope havnt removed the pill yet cause this mod is crazy lol. I shat myself 1st time i drove it. Was like OMG where is this power coming from lol. But i think its from the MBC causing the turbo to come in to hard. Wheel spins to the max lol.

I rkn with pill. actuator mod and the drilling in the airbox to lean it out would give you almost optimum performance. From what i see in the A/F gauge the car is still running very rich.

I'm a try the dyno thing on the iphone again and see how much of a gain it really gives.

[Frogman]

I'll drill out the airbox tomorrow... since I'm getting the k&n pod it shouldn't matter too much...

I'll just get to work nice and early, give it a go and let everyone know what the pill mod, airbox mod and slight actuator adjustment is like... ;)

[Julz]

keen to hear how this goes...

ohmeh - how many turns did you do?

[speedracer]

so in the end did anyone have issues with this mod over time ?

has anyone kept it or have you changed it back to normal ?
verdict for long term ?
any CEL over time ?
problems ?

[ommeh]

keen to hear how this goes...

ohmeh - how many turns did you do?

All the way to the end with the lock nut still in. I want to take the lock nut out now cause i want a bit more power :)

[ommeh]

so in the end did anyone have issues with this mod over time ?

has anyone kept it or have you changed it back to normal ?
verdict for long term ?
any CEL over time ?
problems ?


I've poped CEL twice now. Only because i'm still using the MBC (Witch i should remove) and the weather was all unko. COld then hot etc lol. But overall its fine :)

[Frogman]

I still have mine done up... but I have let it off a little... it was running over 20 psi!

Now b4 anyone has a fit about it I will let you all know it was combined with a pill pop... if you ask me the pill pop is much better than the actuator mod... but combined makes for one hell of a little beast :D

[aby82]

whats ur fuel consumption like with these mods luke??

[Frogman]

A little bit higher but not much...

[Llewellyn]

Generally..how many turns have people adjusted theirs to?

I just give it 3.5 turns and have noticed a little bit, it's raining thou so it was wheel spin city. Feeling like once it's dry i need to go tighter again.

I believe a few people have adjusted it as far as it can go, is there many cases of this?

[Davo_colt]

Hey Frogman

So its been a long time since you did the actuator arm mod... have you been getting any problems with it (such as CELs)? If i just tighten it as far as it can go while leaving the lock nut on it shouldn't get hight than 15.5 PSI should it?

[filofaith]

Pill out?? I heard some people having this problem... Wer boost is low still MbC works but can give cel

[husky510]

my actuator has been tightened all the way.. the pill is removed and now with FMIC, spikes at 19-20psi and peels of to about 15psi

[Davo_colt]

That 10mm nut on the end of the rod is so hard to loosen. it's all rusted as well doesn't look anywhere near as clean as in the picture on page 9 of this thread.

Any ideas on how to get that 10mm nut off?? Its very hard to get a good position to lever it off

[Ayu452]

coat it in crc...let it sit...that how i did mine...think some cars were n the port/boat longer...salt must of got to it...
but yeh a lil spanner will do the job once u break the rust
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4044/4488446011_2a10de8dab_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4488445647_13ae48e69b_b.jpg

[Davo_colt]

Thanks mate I'll try that! yeh my turbo manifold so rusty! will have to invest in a stainless steel one i think

[Rallimags]

just make sure to put a flat blade screw driver between the actuator lever and the arm so you don't bend the actuator lever when undoing the nut. I have had mine adjusted for over a year now with no problems.

[silman]

Mine was pretty rusted too but it eventually moved. I have the MBC set at 15psi and I turned the actuator about 3 full turns. I have the pill out and I am getting a lot of lag like some mentioned previously in here.

I seem to be only getting 11psi instead of 12-13 in 1st and 2nd gear now, with more lag. 3rd gear is the same - 15 down to 12psi. I am going to try turning the nut a full turn at a time and test again. I only want to run 16psi max but am wanting to keep that pep down low. How many people are running the stock intercooler setup and have tested with the nut all the way? what is your boost in 1/2/3 high and tapered figures please.

[Spaceboy]

yeah turned it 4 times, put the stock bov back on, everything else stock. Extra power noticeable due to torque steer, slightly higher initial surge as boost hits, and power doesnt flat out at higher rpms anymore, keeps pushing. shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear it picks up in 3rd gear better. No lag issues.
its a pretty mild difference, but seems like it was well worth the 5 minutes to do it.
used a product which is a mix of wd40 or penetrative fluid (heh) and freeze spray, so it shrinks the metal allowing the fluid to penetrate, and also making it easier to crack the bolt. split pin was slightly rusted in also :(

[husky510]

i have had my actuator tightened as tight as can go for some time. spikes at 19psi and peals off to 15psi. The car is getting flashed tomorrow. Should i bring the actuator back a bit for tuning purposes, or just leave it???

[skyrex]

Might be wise if there is a tune involved, it could skew the results... Maybe drop it back, tune it then re-adjust to suit the new tune.

[Cult]

Did my actuator this morning. 4 turns and wow. Wheel spin in second gear and I flogged a gti golf off the lights with a fubar'd clutch... Also I have taken the vented plate out off my bonnet so it is just a meshed hole. Looks awesome seeing the engine cover through the bonnet and it must be a good thing for cooling. Anyone else got theirs removed? If so any gains?

[fauxpas]

...it must be a good thing for cooling. Anyone else got theirs removed? If so any gains?

As opposed to the rexes which have a scoop to feed air into their top mount coolers, ours are vents to extract hot air... I suspect the shape of the vent panel aids in this as air passes over it... Removing it may instead lead to some air being pushed in from the top, therefore preventing hot air getting out of the engine bay...

I'm only surmising as I'm no aero expert...

[Cult]

Read up a little after posting to find a few people do this. Looks shit hot with the red engine cover and engine noise is so right in front of you. Bit worried about rain but I can't see it doing much more than rusting my manifold a bit more. I am thinking about an under tray scoop to force cool air through the engine bay and out the top. Or I'll just leave it. I haven't decided yet.

[Julz]

gotta be careful about getting water in there - rain could quite easily cause your manifold to crack