Done my first Dyno today

[lovecolt]

I was discussing with my mechanic on the possible rich/lean air fuel ratio after installing a pod filter. He suggest me that best way to find out, is to dyno the car. At the same time, we can do a open filter test run to see how much increase of kw does a pod filter might bring us.

Here's the result:

93.8 fwkw (with stock filter)
94fwkw (with open filter)

Hence, this conclude that the air filter mod will bring us virtually nothing for our own management system is too strict. Also from the dyno, we can see the RColt is running extremely rich air-fuel ratio. around 10.xx:1 Ratio. Another interesting point obtained, is the peak boost. It goes to 0.8 bar and drops to 0.5 bar as MIVEC kicks in.

Therefore, our RColt still holds great potential if:

1) change the air-fuel ratio back to the optimal of around 11:1
2) Hold a more reasonable boost at top range.

We will be doing a trial boost controller install tommorrow. See if it can adjust and hold our boost better throughout the rev range.

*Pics & videos will come soon

[Chipokae]

congrats lovecolt, youre surely a pioneer in unlocking the secrets of our colts. keep up the good work.

[GucciPiggy]

I am really looking forward to seeing your results. Good luck.

[lovecolt]

Latest news - Tried to put the boost controller on. And to our surprise, it worked :D We sure feel a extra kick at top rev range. As its getting really late, we decide to dyno and fine tune the next day. Drive the car back home, tried to give it abit of go on M4.........then the RColt curse happens. Engine light lights up in the middle of highway and engine cut out. Damn it sure scares the shit out of me. Luckily, i was boosting far ahead of others. And there's a emergency stop area right in front of me.

Tried to restart the car several time and still didn't work. The engine's just lumping and idle like shit. Luckily, i recall our Euro CZT brothers' story. Totally turn off the car and let it rest a few mins before trying. This time, the idle is back to normal. (But the engine light's still on)

Now.....i will have to go back to take out the boost controller tommorrow. Might check if anything's not done right.... Luckily, my mechanic wouldn't charge me any money if it didn't work.

[Chipokae]

geez lovecolt. if you ever get stranded and need a ride somewhere, give me a call and i'll see what i can do. would hate to think that you get stranded with no help on the M4, especially since the things you learn about your car may very well help us all out some time later.

[Raymond6]

Good luck mait Ive got a real werd feeling it the pit of my stomic that tells me your heading in the wrong direction here. Give my mait (Iggy PH: 97096667) at Gow Street Smash he said that you could do some real damage to your engine if you don't get it right almost straight away.

[cisco]

Pod filters don't do all that much on a lot of cars. I've had micras on and off dynos after swapping various filters, and honestly, you're lucky if just changing to a pod every does much at all. You will get the best results if you combine a few things together: place the intake/filter in a place where it gets COLDER air, use a less restrictive filter (but risk sucking more crap into your brand new high tech MIVEC engine), perform trials to find the optimum intake duct length and diameter.

I agree with you about the boost, the Colt definitely seems to plateau back to less boost after its made peak torque. It definitely has so much more top end potential in my opinion. To me, it spools up quite quickly and then just levels back out feeling very linear once again.

Its a very torque/mid-range oriented turbo setup. Compared to my old micra with a massive T28BB turbocharger on it, which didn't start to do anything until about 3500rpm and then felt like a jet taking off right up to 8000rpm. Sure, the micra had excellent top-end pushback feel, but nowhere near the usability and practical torque on demand feel that the RColt has. The RColt is much better for exiting corners and roundabouts and putting your foot down, the power is always there ready to go for you. The micra would sometimes be no power until 3 seconds later because the turbo was quite large..

In this sense, I have learnt a lot from my previous turbo micra, and I would never put a larger turbo on the RColt if it is to remain a street car. The absolute most I would ever do is let the factory turbo breathe better, exhaust, intercooler, engine management etc. I.e. run as much boost out of the factory turbo that you can, safely. But in my personal situation, I am much preferring the 5 year warranty and roadside assistance, so I will probably never modify my RColt. But getting the most out of the factory turbo, within safe limits keeping the inlet temps cool etc, would allow you to keep the same awesome torque-on-demand feel that the RColt has, plus get you a decent wack of top end increase. That's the way I'd approach it.

Have fun!! I bet you're having a ball playing with your car and seeing what happens after every mod you do..

[lovecolt]

geez lovecolt. if you ever get stranded and need a ride somewhere, give me a call and i'll see what i can do. would hate to think that you get stranded with no help on the M4, especially since the things you learn about your car may very well help us all out some time later.

Thanks man. Will keep in mind on that. Luckily these symptoms are typical known issue with RColt and Evos if you messed around with it. All its needed, is to shut down for a few mins and wait for the ecu to reset. Our euro cousins will have plenty of these experience when they are doing their intake experiements ;)


Good luck mait Ive got a real werd feeling it the pit of my stomic that tells me your heading in the wrong direction here. Give my mait (Iggy PH: 97096667) at Gow Street Smash he said that you could do some real damage to your engine if you don't get it right almost straight away.

Don't worry Ray. I am 100% sure that there's nothing to worry about for my trials. Reason been is, we are only merely attempting to hold the boost instead of increasing, hence no risk is involved to test the internal strength of the engine. The engine cut is only a safety measure from Mitsubishi. Same for their extreme rich air-fuel mixture for safety.

Thanks for the offer on Gow Street Smash. But if its anyone that i will trust, it will be my mechanic (I.S Motor Racing) as he has been a master in Turbo Jap Performance cars for 20 over years with good reputation by all. For these few years of modded turbo experiences, i have been through with alot of different big reputable workshops around syd and i still end up going back to them. But thanks again, i will keep Gow Street Smash in mind. :cool: ;)


Pod filters don't do all that much on a lot of cars. I've had micras on and off dynos after swapping various filters, and honestly, you're lucky if just changing to a pod every does much at all. You will get the best results if you combine a few things together: place the intake/filter in a place where it gets COLDER air, use a less restrictive filter (but risk sucking more crap into your brand new high tech MIVEC engine), perform trials to find the optimum intake duct length and diameter.

I agree with you about the boost, the Colt definitely seems to plateau back to less boost after its made peak torque. It definitely has so much more top end potential in my opinion. To me, it spools up quite quickly and then just levels back out feeling very linear once again.

Its a very torque/mid-range oriented turbo setup. Compared to my old micra with a massive T28BB turbocharger on it, which didn't start to do anything until about 3500rpm and then felt like a jet taking off right up to 8000rpm. Sure, the micra had excellent top-end pushback feel, but nowhere near the usability and practical torque on demand feel that the RColt has. The RColt is much better for exiting corners and roundabouts and putting your foot down, the power is always there ready to go for you. The micra would sometimes be no power until 3 seconds later because the turbo was quite large..

In this sense, I have learnt a lot from my previous turbo micra, and I would never put a larger turbo on the RColt if it is to remain a street car. The absolute most I would ever do is let the factory turbo breathe better, exhaust, intercooler, engine management etc. I.e. run as much boost out of the factory turbo that you can, safely. But in my personal situation, I am much preferring the 5 year warranty and roadside assistance, so I will probably never modify my RColt. But getting the most out of the factory turbo, within safe limits keeping the inlet temps cool etc, would allow you to keep the same awesome torque-on-demand feel that the RColt has, plus get you a decent wack of top end increase. That's the way I'd approach it.

Have fun!! I bet you're having a ball playing with your car and seeing what happens after every mod you do..

Definitely agreed with your theory on maximising the stock turbo before attempting a bigger turbo. For a 1130kg car, its going to be too heavy for a 1.5L (off boost period). Hence you would really want a good balance of quick spool up and reasonable boost flow kinda turbo.

The setup in our RColt is already kinda laggy in stock form as it needs 3000rpm before boost kicks in. If you think about it, when off boost, our RColt is running kinda like a N/A (low compression one too) with 1130 kg. This explains the heavy initial feeling we all have. I'm sure no one would like to extend the crap feeling further by having a even more laggy setup ya ;)

*UPDATE on BOOST CONTROLLER*
I bring it back to my mechanic. He plugged in to my ecu and it had a "unknown controller" message in it. We dyno the car in attempt to find what's the triggering point for the Engine Light.

My mechanic's initial theory is, it might be caused by setting the boost limit too near to the stock peak boost and a big enough +/- range to allow possible slight overboosting. Being a very restrictive and overprotective ECU, this sounds reasonable. To the ECU, it might think...wtf....why is the car overboosting (even by a bit), therefore i must cut the engine to protect it.

Hence before the dynos, we lowered the target max boost to 0.78 bar instead of 0.8 bar from yestersday. (No dyno tuning is done on the first day of installation as its getting too late) Throughout the runs, engine cut never occur. But what was observed is, the boost hold up so much better. 0.8 bar initially and only drops to around 0.7 bar +/-, instead of initial 0.8 bar that drops to 0.5 bar +/-. This makes my car's mid range power so much fatter

Hopefully, the theory works. But we will have to see. In anyway, MRT is going to develop their Ecutek with my car, hence the boost controller will come handyat that time

[cisco]

Good luck with it. Exciting having MRT work on it :0

[Chipokae]

good to hear you are sorting out the issues relatively quickly. good luck with the trials keep us informed

[slonez]

Hopefully, the theory works. But we will have to see. In anyway, MRT is going to develop their Ecutek with my car, hence the boost controller will come handyat that time

I wrote to Brett of MRT & he does not have anything for our engine at the moment. Hopefully with your co-operation, he'll come up with something soon.
Please keep us posted. :)

[lovecolt]

Hopefully, the theory works. But we will have to see. In anyway, MRT is going to develop their Ecutek with my car, hence the boost controller will come handy at that time

I wrote to Brett of MRT & he does not have anything for our engine at the moment. Hopefully with your co-operation, he'll come up with something soon.
Please keep us posted. :)

Me too, hope MRT can come up with the EcuTEK really quick as i misses the time when the boost controller really fattens my mid range. By solving the overly rich air-fuel ratio of our engine, plus a big fat mid range from boost controller...i can't wait to see what it can do to our car.

Brief Update on Boost Controller:
After we attempt to lower the boost, ECU light never did come on again. HOWEVER, something else weird happened.

When i tried to floor the accelerator, you can feel the engine paused for a split second around 4k rpm zone. I can still rev till red line after that pause. However i realised that after the engine pause incident, i kinda lose my N/A power (off boost rev zone). The car still boost as normal, but its just not revving or felt retarded under 3k rpm. This goes away if i shut and restart the engine.

"OH WHAT A FEELING, RColt ECU!" (Ryan singing :rolleyes: )

Anyway, i got everything double checked and it still conclude back to the restriction of ECU. Hence, the boost controller's now disconnected for the time been before EcuTEK comes in.

Now, the boost controller serves as a boost gauge for the time being. But i observed something interesting though. When i floor the accelerator, i saw the max boost actually went up to 0.9 bar instead of the 0.8 achieved during the dyno. This looks like the boost spike that's allowed by the OEM ECU. This makes us think of why ECU allows the addition boost spike and when boost controller comes in place, it don't like it. Bear in mind that the max boost set on boost controller is alot lower than the max boost spike by the ECU.