Engine Oil for RColt??

[lovecolt]

I was wondering if any of you have changed your engine oil yet? if yes, what brand & spec of oil do you use? My old silvia used to use Castrol Formula R 10w-60.......don't know if it will still be alright for the new boy. Alot people said 10w-60 is abit thick and will hindle the performance, but my mechanic like to use it on my silvia for protection.....

[GucciPiggy]

Motul 4100 Turbolight 10w40 is brilliant stuff. Semi synthetic so it lasts longer and its pretty cheap $45 approx. Noticeably smoother than others and leaves engine parts nice and clean. Never buy Castrol Magnatec you will notice a definite drop in performance and need to let the car drain forever when changing the oil.

[Duke]

I use 10W60 Castrol TWS which is the regular oil for EVO 9.
I have a oil temp gauge and can never see it over 100 with this oil.

[white horse]

I was wondering if any of you have changed your engine oil yet? if yes, what brand & spec of oil do you use? My old silvia used to use Castrol Formula R 10w-60.......don't know if it will still be alright for the new boy. Alot people said 10w-60 is abit thick and will hindle the performance, but my mechanic like to use it on my silvia for protection.....

i changed to Motul 8100/5w40 full syth at 5,000kms,i feel the car slightly more powerful and the engine noise is louder, may be the engine have loosen up a bit ,but certainly it feels faster.
i dont think its good to use 10w60 or 5w50 ,factory recommended highest is 40 cause its small turbo i think,50 or 60 is thick for our cvr, may be it protect a little better than 40 but you take off slower.
i have done 9,800 something kms and on monday i take it to dealership to get the oil and filter change cause we need the 5,000kms oil changed book stamp otherwise i change it myself,they use BP 5,000 5w40 but i think its not full syth oil.

[lovecolt]

is there even a recommend oil in our manual?? Anyway, i put in the Castrol Formula R Edge Sport 5w-30 this time.

[Raymond6]

Ive been thinking of what oil filter to fit now being a turbo car I thort a bit more care should be taken in this proccess so I had a look around and found this interesting link:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html#avoid

I could give a short recap of what is recomended but we are all adults and can make up our minds as to what we belive would best suit our Rcolt's.

I also found this interesting and informative page on Engine Oil
http://www.canyontraders.com/oil_camparisons.htm

[GucciPiggy]

I changed my oil and filter today. To my surprise the filter I bought from the spare parts department (MD356000) did not match the stock filter on the car (MD136466). When I rang to check, the parts guy told me the original filter is an option in japan and not available in Oz. The original one has an extra ring of drainage holes in it just inside the rubber seal. I wonder if there is much of a difference in the quality of filters? The oz version is the same one specified for the 4G63's in evo's.

[lovecolt]

I changed my oil and filter today. To my surprise the filter I bought from the spare parts department (MD356000) did not match the stock filter on the car (MD136466). When I rang to check, the parts guy told me the original filter is an option in japan and not available in Oz. The original one has an extra ring of drainage holes in it just inside the rubber seal. I wonder if there is much of a difference in the quality of filters? The oz version is the same one specified for the 4G63's in evo's.

I can comfirm that the parts guy have totally no idea what he's talking about, because the oil filter i bought is MD136466 (the original).

By the way, went to do my 2nd oil change with my mechanic. And he used 5w-40 Castrol Formula R Edge. You might ask why i change oil so quick? Because the first time, i am unable to unscrew my oil filter. However, get them to loosen the oil filter this time and i will be able to do it next time myself.

*Btw, i have taken some pics of how i do my oil change.....anyone interested?? I could post up as a thread to teach everyone how to do a simple oil change that save you big bucks.

[GucciPiggy]

Interesting. I love being lied to by the service department :) .

If you want to get off a tight filter just buy a wrench from supercheap. They are $5 tops. It is a joy to change the oil on these cars. Everything is so easy to get at. No more reaching behind hot engine parts or pulling half the engine out to get to the filter as the filter is right there next to the sump. I am sure you know this Lovecolt but for others who haven't changed their oil yet, when you buy the filter make sure to also get the deformable washers for the sump plug. The are designed to squash down to make a good seal, they should not be reused as they can leak.

[Keith Anderson]

I was wondering if any of you have changed your engine oil yet? if yes, what brand & spec of oil do you use? My old silvia used to use Castrol Formula R 10w-60.......don't know if it will still be alright for the new boy. Alot people said 10w-60 is abit thick and will hindle the performance, but my mechanic like to use it on my silvia for protection.....

I don't know who your mechanic is but he hasn't got a clue if he thinks using a thicker oil is better protection on a over head multicam engine.

I don't know what oil Mits recommend for the engine but I'm sure the manual will tell you. Do not use a different grade oil than what is recommended, there is a reason oil companies and car companies test to see what oil suits what engine.

A little on oil if you don't alrready know.

There are two types of oil, Singlegrade and Multigrade but for Ralliart Colts you wll need a Multigrade so that's what I'll talk about.

The numbers on the bottle what they really mean

Lets say you go grab a bottle of 10w-40 for your car. When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear.
If a motor oil passes the cold temperature or W (winter grade) specification for a SAE 15W and at 210° F (100° C) flows through the viscometer like a SAE 40 motor oil, then the label will read 15W-40
How many times I have heard someone, usually an auto mechanic, say that they wouldn't use a 5W-30 motor oil because it is, "Too thin." Then they may use a 10W-30 or SAE 30 motor oil. At engine operating temperatures these oils are the same. The only time the 5W-30 oil is "thin" is at cold start up conditions where you need it to be "thin."

So what's this mean for our oil in a car such as a ralliart colt. Lets say for arguments sake mitsubishi recommends a 10w -40. sould you run a 5w. Well for a oil to have a rating of 10W it has to pass the flow test at -20, a 5W oil has to pass the test at -25. Do we drive our cars in that type of temperature, I think not so lowering your W ( which actually stands for "Winter") rating is a waste of time in Australia You will gain nothing as both a 5W -40 and a 10W-40 both are the same thickness at opertaing temperature and both run perfectly at start up.
So would you run a 50 or even a 60 grade oil in a car recommending a 40, well remember that the oil is tested at a opertaing temperature of 100 degrees and has to flow a certain amount to get it's rating, The higher the number the less flow it has at opertaing temperature causing more wear on the engine.

Hope this helps on what oil you should use.

[Chang]

Hi everyone,

I am wondering what's the normal Oil Temp for Colt Plus Ralliart Turbo.
Is 115.C on the high side after a hard and long drive uphill??

It's only about 100.C doing city drive,But will shoot up to 110.C
at Full throttle.
and when its driving up Hills.( 115.c)

Appreciate if anyone can share their experience with me.:cool:

[ozmale]

I use and have always used mobil 1.
Before getting my colt I had a gray import Startlet GT Turbo (still have it, its for sale ATM) The Starlet has done 170,000k, it goes as hard and strong as the day I bought it, never uses any oil and is still running very high compression.
For the money, and I know its expensive but I doubt you can do better than mobil 1.

Chris

[Steve-B]

ozzie,
mate same as me, i had a grey import twin turbo supra and always used full synthetic oil, ie mobil one and use it now in the colt as well. Cars love it.

[bunnybash]

I can comfirm that the parts guy have totally no idea what he's talking about, because the oil filter i bought is MD136466 (the original).

By the way, went to do my 2nd oil change with my mechanic. And he used 5w-40 Castrol Formula R Edge. You might ask why i change oil so quick? Because the first time, i am unable to unscrew my oil filter. However, get them to loosen the oil filter this time and i will be able to do it next time myself.

*Btw, i have taken some pics of how i do my oil change.....anyone interested?? I could post up as a thread to teach everyone how to do a simple oil change that save you big bucks.

i am interested... don't mind admitting i am a newb!!

[lovecolt]

i am interested... don't mind admitting i am a newb!!

Will try to dig it out and put up a thread ;)

[DAC]

Thats a nice quick summary Keith.

Lucky I still have my service receipt haha. Ok Mitz service at Gordon put in Magnatec Prof 5w-40 in my RColt & charged $37.17. So it looks like the we should be using 5w-40. Is Magnatec Prof, Castrol Magnatec?

Hey lovecolt I've used 5w-40 Castrol Formula R Edge in my previous car & I think it work pretty good. I dont use Mobil one since the 50w or 60w is a bit high. Shame we have to take our cars back every 5000kms otherwise I'd be changing my own oil.

[lovecolt]

Shame we have to take our cars back every 5000kms otherwise I'd be changing my own oil.

At least we don't always have to bring it back to mitsu for service ;) Saved us abit un-needed expenses.

[bserk]

So is the RC oil filter the same as the 4G63?

I know that thicker visc oil is good for rebuilt or higher power engines. I think mainly due to it being able to operate at higher temps without break down. I presume a visc of 530w would sufficiently cover a stock RC.

[lovecolt]

So is the RC oil filter the same as the 4G63?

I know that thicker visc oil is good for rebuilt or higher power engines. I think mainly due to it being able to operate at higher temps without break down. I presume a visc of 530w would sufficiently cover a stock RC.

No, RC's oil filter is not the same as 4G63's. But as far as i know, they can be inter-used. If my memory serve me right, 4G63's oil filter's actually shorter than RC's.

[Macca]

the short ralliart $50+$ oil filter, is a magnetic bassed one :S uses magnets to clean the oil.

[Adam]

Viscousity and heat resistance are slightly different things, high temp oil is good for turbo cars and high viscousity oils usually better for high compression engines.

(magnets attract the little bits of metal from engine wear that wear out the engine faster)

[Macca]

Viscousity and heat resistance are slightly different things, high temp oil is good for turbo cars and high viscousity oils usually better for high compression engines.

(magnets attract the little bits of metal from engine wear that wear out the engine faster)

sure does, just strange to see that in a car, i wouldnt pay that much for a filter thou. Ill save the magnetic bits for the aircraft engines i work on. We have them in the oil line to pick up any metal, and swab them off, if there is metal on them the test it to see where it came from, normally there isnt any metal.

[bserk]

Jeez you'd hate to find too many metal particles on the magnets. Espesh big ones. Don't want to wonder where they came from.

[Macca]

well at my work we dont wonder, we send them away and are told where they same from ;)

I havent even seen specals of metal, let alone chuncks.

Oh and also my dealer uses castrol magnatec 5w40 on the colt.

[bserk]

Realise that Macca, was thinking more along cars. Couldn't imagine too many car owners sednig off particles of metal tio check where they originated from.

Looks like Castrol's the popular choice in oil.

[Steve-B]

castrols for suckers..

[Macca]

castrols for suckers..

Bite me bitch :P

My mitsubishi put in what ever the special oil is for the ralliart car, which remineds me im due for 20k service at the end of this fuel tank.

[Steve-B]

mines in today for the 20k, and from all we have heard from so called "mitsy" services centres, i think i'll go with what i know.

do you put run of the mill oil in ya jet engines fly boy, or do you use quality gear ?
my answer exactly !

[Adam]

Hey macca, are you in base maint? Some of the Rolla's can make metal.... especially the rb211....

Hey Steve, what oil do you use? Castrol do make engine oil for jets but its much better that the stuff you can buy for cars. Interesting fact though is that is it mostly comes in 1litre metal cans. (Bitch to fill up one at a time)

[lovecolt]

Hey macca, are you in base maint? Some of the Rolla's can make metal.... especially the rb211....

Hey Steve, what oil do you use? Castrol do make engine oil for jets but its much better that the stuff you can buy for cars. Interesting fact though is that is it mostly comes in 1litre metal cans. (Bitch to fill up one at a time)

And hopefully, the engine oil reserve is not like 100L :D I can imagine the time needed to fill 100 x 1L cans of engine oil :D

[Steve-B]

mobil full synthetic 0-40w

[GM Grey]

Anyone tried or have suggestion about Royal Purple 5-30W FS?

[fauxpas]

What's the oil specified in the manual? (faux too lazy to go out to car)

[ColtVerR]

What's the oil specified in the manual? (faux too lazy to go out to car)


on the norm, should be looking at 5W-30 oils...

[disguy2k]

I've always found the 4G63 loves magnatec. It usually stops the Mitsubishi infamous "ticking" from the lash adjusters (pocket of air trapped inside it)

Also, if you have, or know someone who has an old hard drive laying around, above and below the heads are 2 very high powered short field rare earth magnets. take them and stick them to the side of the filter, and put a stubby holder over the whole lot to keep it together.

[McCoy]

TMR use ELF for both the track cars, the ones running at the Bathurst 12 hour etc... Standard Mitsubishi oil for their road cars.

[MIJ]

Hi guys, the Castrol EDGE sport 5W-30 is now onsale at supercheap just $29.90.

Cheers
MIJ:)

[zumro-BiH]

hello boys ... I wanted to ask .... what thought of this oil ..... motul chrono 10w40 100% synthetic .... could be good for our colt

http://www.autoricambirufina.it/catalogo/catalogo_zoom.asp?task=articolo&idmacrocat=12&macrocategoria=PRODOTTI%20AUTO&idcateg=26&categoria=LINEA%20300V&idart=54&im=12&des=Lubrificanti,%20additivi,%20creme%20lucidanti, %20ammortizzatori,%20accessori%20e%20rivestimenti% 20per%20interni:%20anche%20per%20la%20tua%20auto,% 20scopri%20la%20qualit%E0%20e%20la%20convenienza!

[why_bother]

I've heard good stuff about Motul from the motorbike world, haven't heard too much in regards to cars though.

[Adam]

I used Motul in my 200sx and it was good. It was recommended to me from a very good mechanic and I will be using it in my colt when I go for my next service.

[fauxpas]

If the oil is reasonable quality and changed every 5000k, then you really don't need super quality chit...

Some cars that go more than 5000k between drinks would certainly benefit from a quality oil. I think if a car is bouncing off the limiter a lot is also deserving of a nice drink...

Oh, and I stay away from castrol... a mechanic mate said he's only seen 2 fresh rebuilt V8s fail, both, incidentally, had castrol...

[DD619]

hello boys ... I wanted to ask .... what thought of this oil ..... motul chrono 10w40 100% synthetic .... could be good for our colt

http://www.autoricambirufina.it/catalogo/catalogo_zoom.asp?task=articolo&idmacrocat=12&macrocategoria=PRODOTTI%20AUTO&idcateg=26&categoria=LINEA%20300V&idart=54&im=12&des=Lubrificanti,%20additivi,%20creme%20lucidanti, %20ammortizzatori,%20accessori%20e%20rivestimenti% 20per%20interni:%20anche%20per%20la%20tua%20auto,% 20scopri%20la%20qualit%E0%20e%20la%20convenienza!
this oil is the number one to the world in 100% synthetic gradation 10w 40 a valid alternative is the royal purple with molecules of synerlec

[fauxpas]

The quality of motul oil is unquestioned as I've used it in a superbike... but I would have thought 10w40 was a little thick for our engines...

Even my agricultural ford 4.0ltr used 10w30 as standard...

[DD619]

for z37a Mitsubishi it recommends an 10w 40 oil

[aby82]

i believe the oil ratings are dependent on the country (i.e. climate) of where the vehicle is located..

i'd say italy and australia have a fairly diff climate ;)

[DD619]

i believe the oil ratings are dependent on the country (i.e. climate) of where the vehicle is located..

i'd say italy and australia have a fairly diff climate ;)

10w 30 or 5w 30?
that type used generally shell motul or others?

[fauxpas]

i believe the oil ratings are dependent on the country (i.e. climate) of where the vehicle is located..

I don't think so... Aus and other hot countries still have subzero temps even below the snowline... Here in the hunter area gets several subzero nights a year and it never snows... If anything is influenced by country it should/would be coolant to allow the engine to operate at a set temp...

The cold winter rating of the viscosity of oil is taken at 5 degrees c... I believe...

[widge]

Does anyone know the Ryco model for our Rcolt i rang bursons and there listing is the same as the normal colt is this correct?

[fauxpas]

Mine's getting serviced tomorrow. I'll ask the bloke...

[widge]

LOL thanks but ill be getting the filter tomorrow ill try the listing from bursons

[lovecolt]

I don't think so... Aus and other hot countries still have subzero temps even below the snowline... Here in the hunter area gets several subzero nights a year and it never snows... If anything is influenced by country it should/would be coolant to allow the engine to operate at a set temp...

The cold winter rating of the viscosity of oil is taken at 5 degrees c... I believe...

Just bringing the dead back to life, i don't agree your point of view.

Does hunter area go subzero condition during summer?? Doubt it.
Does hunter area go high 30ish during winter?? Doubt it.

This is basically where the country difference comes in place. Different place has different temp time period. Like say singapore where its constantly around 25 - 35 degree. Do you need a 0w-60 rating engine oil....?? Doubt it. That is why, one changes your engine at different point of time in the year to suit the condition of that time.

[fauxpas]

I believe I wrote that in response to oil rating... Oil ratings are made at set temps... That's what I read up on anyhow...

[ob1tanobey]

so what happens if i use a 0-30 oil in summer? temp here reaches near 40 easy.

[fauxpas]

so what happens if i use a 0-30 oil in summer? temp here reaches near 40 easy.

Don't worry... engine temp is controlled by coolant to within set parametres... The temp regarding oil is just the cold and hot temp used to rate the oil's viscosity...

Any thin performance semi-synth or full-synth oil will be fine...

[Silverado]

I noticed most people on this forum use synthetic oils, but are there any that have the 15w 40 grade that's recommended for the colt ralliart?
synthetic or semi synthetic oils are usually 10w 40, but this grade is not listed in our little handbook. will using the incorrect grade oil void warranty?
wouldnt want to give mistubishi any excuses in the event something happened to the engine.

also, i did an oil change at 1500km and the oil was pretty dark black. put in 10w 30 shell oil (mineral). did the 5000km change and the oil was still dark. is this expected or should i be worried? i just assumed its just some soot or dust that's gathered in the engine while its been sitting around somewhere since 2006. i've recently put in 15w 40 valvoline xld engine armour (mineral).

[fauxpas]

Valvoline Dura/B is semi-synth I believe and is what my mitsubishi service guy uses...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e293/faux1337/5kService.jpg

[husky510]

Like TMR, I use Elf and always have. 15w-40 full syn! If it's good enough for a Renault F1, it's good enough for a Colt!

[fauxpas]

lol, if you actually think you can buy over the counter what they put into F1 cars, you're ***********...

But seriously, full synth is great, but over the top for most people... If you scream your engine off the limiter on a weekly basis, then full synthetic would be worth it. If you only give your car curry now and then and even when ya do its nowhere near the limiter, then full synth is a waste...

More dollars than sense most people have...

[alba]

if i am paying over $20k for a car i dont see the point in skimping $30 on oil... but then again, maybe i fall into your "more money than sense" category faux

[husky510]

[QUOTE=fauxpas;30067][B][COLOR="Blue"]lol, if you actually think you can buy over the counter what they put into F1 cars, you're ***********...

Where do you think all the new technology in late model cars come from??? Like padal gears, sequential gearboxes, "oil technology"!!!!??? Not from gay V8 supercars. It's from Formula 1!!!! All their efforts from developing their cars gets filtered down to normal road cars... Without F1, we would not have sophisticated engineering in our modern day road cars... hence why we get oils that are also developed in motors that rev at 19,000 rpm. They are proven and tested and and eventually are used in normal conventional motors.

I am not saying that the F1 Renault uses 15w-40 in it's motor.. but what I am referring to is that it uses the same properties. I know that when I am putting it in my car, I am putting in a tested product that has evolved from a high tech background. If I saw a a Castrol sign for instance on a V8 supercar, I would assume it's great for that particular motor... but V8 supercar motor's are boat anchor's... push rod old technology...!!! I want an oil that suits a multi cam, multi valve engine. I am not having a go at Castrol either.. but oils like Shell, Mobil and Elf are proven all around the world in all motorsports.

[fauxpas]

if i am paying over $20k for a car i dont see the point in skimping $30 on oil...

If that works for you, go for it... I'm simply saying its over the top for the majority of applications here... Just the same as brake pads and tyres, not everyone will buy the absolute most expensive pads or tyres... Some will and will likely be overkill...

[Silverado]

the main advantage of using a synthetic oil is pretty much it doesnt break down as quickly as mineral oils, so you can extend your oil changes..is this right? since we're doing oil changes every 5000km then a decent mineral should be fine even for turbo applications.

anyway, i do prefer Elf oils as i've used them for previous cars, didnt realise they had 15w 40 grade synthetic, will go search for it for next service.

as for my other question..will using a different grade oil other than specified in the owner's manual void warranty? i know some Mitsu service centres use 10w 40 grade oil, but what if you get the car serviced by a different place, will Mitsubishi honor that warranty ?

[alba]

do a search on warranty void :)

i dont want to see this argument rear its ugly head again

[Silverado]

i've done searches but can't seem to find anything specific about whether using different grade oil will void warranty...i know Mitsu will still honor warranty as long as its serviced by an approved mechanic. search feature hasnt been working properly for me though, sometimes i dont get as much results, not sure why, maybe coz i use Linux. :confused:

[aby82]

nah the website's search function is pretty average.. try doing an advanced search in google and choose rcolt.com as the domain ;)

if u look in the owners manual under oil, it gives u a diagram of the suitable oil grades for ur car.. if the type u wanna use is on there then u should be sweet.. :)

[fauxpas]

the main advantage of using a synthetic oil is pretty much it doesnt break down as quickly as mineral oils, so you can extend your oil changes..is this right?

The main advantage of synthetic oils is their ability to hold their properties at high temperatures. Mineral oil will lose the plot at high temps and actually change its properties quite a bit and at the extreme will not lubricate well at all...

99% of rcolters won't need full synth... Semi syth is fine. That's why semi synth is used by mitsubishi in a car with 5yr warranty...

[aby82]

i use castrol edge sport.. 5w-30 and its fully synth - and usually pretty affordable..

[Silverado]

if u look in the owners manual under oil, it gives u a diagram of the suitable oil grades for ur car.. if the type u wanna use is on there then u should be sweet.. :)

yeh i know what the manual says with regards to oil..i just wanted to know if there was a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil with 15w 40 grade as i couldnt find any at autobarn or supercheap.

aby82...according to the diagram you're using the wrong oil :p
5w 30 doesnt look like the right one to be using in Qld. :cool:

[aby82]

haha its in the range.. it'll do fine! :p its for turbo engines.. lol

[GM Grey]

the main advantage of using a synthetic oil is pretty much it doesnt break down as quickly as mineral oils, so you can extend your oil changes..is this right? since we're doing oil changes every 5000km then a decent mineral should be fine even for turbo applications.

Actually, i find that full syn has shorter life span compare to semi-syn. My friend uses motul full syn finds that the car will get slightly sluggish usually after 3000 - 3500k.

[lovecolt]

Actually, i find that full syn has shorter life span compare to semi-syn. My friend uses motul full syn finds that the car will get slightly sluggish usually after 3000 - 3500k.

It also depend on the brand of oil you used, GM ;) Not to mention, its only normal to feel that way after 3-4k of travelling. I have yet to see any oil that will make you feel as fresh as newly changed after 4-5k mileage.

[fauxpas]

On any car I've had past warranty, I've done oil and filter at 5k (where the handbooks may have been 10-15k) with semi synth and air filter every 10k...

On the rcolt's 5 & 10k services, I've always noticed the zip and freeness in the motor when driving away from the service centre... This is compelling me to do just an oil change at 2.5k between the handbook 5k...

I'm on 11+k at the moment... At 12.5k I'll have a look and if it looks/feels suss at all, she's gunna get changed...

[banana]

I just loaded it up with 5w 40 Elf full synthetic oil, engines gone louder.... lol

[GM Grey]

Sometimes i must admit whether it is your actual mind playing tricks on you or the car is actually getting much louder as everything is getting a bit loose.
I have currently done 12000K (in 3 months) and i find there are lot more 'plasticky' noise coming just under the dash. But then again i have recently install springs as well ... so not sure whether that have some implications.

And regarding to my clutch, this has been my first manual car, so i would have fudge my clutch plenty of times, and so far i do find so sparking noise coming from my clutch after i disengage (esp in 1st/2nd and 2nd/3rd gear).

[Payload]

What do you guys think of the Mobil-1 Synthetic 5W-50 for the colt. Its very easy to get your hands on compared to some of the other weights they do. Im thinking it would suit the car well, light enough that it shouldnt sap too much power or make it harder to start but offers good protection for the high revs. Have used it on my other cars and it always goes great but i have never had a turbo car before so im not sure if there are any other requirements. On the bottle it suggests its good for turbo cars and good for high rpm protection.

[rino]

Just had service done at mits dealer and they said that they put in Mobil Super S 15W50 is that right?

[banana]

seems like they just put wuteva they have in stock lol

[stylo]

Just had service done at mits dealer and they said that they put in Mobil Super S 15W50 is that right?

If you have your car manual handy, go take a look and tell us what it should be.

Off the top of my head it is 10W/30 or 15W/40 ... can't rememberrrrr

[stylo]

here.

[rino]

I already looked at that page of the manual too and to me it looked like we should be using 10W30 or 15W40 is that right? am I reading it right?
If some one could let me know that would be good because if they put in the wrong oil I want to take it back?

[Silverado]

from memory, according to that chart 10w 30 is good for ambient temps upto 40 degrees celcius. im using 15w 40, getting great fuel economy also, travelled 450km with 1/4 tank remaining, 50% freeway 50% suburban driving.

[fauxpas]

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e293/faux1337/OilLarge.jpg

[markimak]

pers0naly i wouldnt use a 15w
I do like 10w-60 purely 4 the range. Thats what i usd in my 180sx drift car. Or a lowest of 45

[Blaze]

Almost at my 5000km service.
The mechanic im going to offers oil changes for the minor services for $70 and users Anglomoil
website is http://www.anglomoil.com/products.php
has anyone heard of this oil before or used it?
This mechanic mainly services turbo imports

[lovecolt]

Never heard of the brand.

Unless he's only earning $20 for the whole job, any good oil used for our car, will be already around $50.

[fauxpas]

The mechanic im going to offers oil changes for the minor services for $70...

If you're interested in keeping your warranty then he has to use mitsubishi replacement parts (filters etc) and do the service in accordance to the handbook. By not servicing at mitsubishi you'll lose some of your roadside assist...

[Blaze]

Dropped by him yesterday.
He charges 40 bucks labour to do the work for 5000km oil change.
He recomends me to buy the oil and come by him.
The dealer i bought the car off in Parra wants $245 and Liverpool want $180.
The dealer said as long as they are certified and we user Mitsu replacement parts and keep receipts the roadside assist and warranty stays.

Does anyone use mitsubishi OEM oils?

[lovecolt]

Dropped by him yesterday.
He charges 40 bucks labour to do the work for 5000km oil change.
He recomends me to buy the oil and come by him.
The dealer i bought the car off in Parra wants $245 and Liverpool want $180.
The dealer said as long as they are certified and we user Mitsu replacement parts and keep receipts the roadside assist and warranty stays.

Does anyone use mitsubishi OEM oils?

I don't think there's such thing as Mitsubishi OEM oils. If you look up the "what should i expect to pay for my servicings" in the main Ralliart Colt section, you will see that different dealers uses different brand & grade of oil.

[liou]

For my CZT I use Amsoil AMO 10-40 and the car runs like silk. Some others here in Greece use the Amsoil HDD 5-30.
Great staff both of them but I m afraid its a little bit risky to use the 5/30 on a hot Greek summer IMO.

[fauxpas]

Dropped by him yesterday.
He charges 40 bucks labour to do the work for 5000km oil change.

It needs to be a handbook service and stamped as done by them in your book. If you get them to simply change the oil it isn't good enough. There is also a filter change and that needs to be a mitsubishi part...


The dealer i bought the car off in Parra wants $245 and Liverpool want $180. Does anyone use mitsubishi OEM oils?

5,000 & 10,000 services done at Booths Tuggerah on the central coast are $120. The 15,000 is $200. Everyone else in aus seems to get varying quotes/charges. There is no mitsu oil, but there are filters that need to be mitsubishi.


Not trying to be a pain, just a warning...

[Spaceboy]

I don't think there's such thing as Mitsubishi OEM oils.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v284/Bakednoodle/5e0c6085.jpg

[fauxpas]

Stands corrected and bent over ready for a spanking :eek:

Aint seen this oil used on any of the service receipts yet... Wonder why?

[Spaceboy]

i guess dealers make a bit of money providing castrol or valvoline?

[markimak]

i used to work at servicing.

we never use to use the bottled OEM oil due to it its too much of a hassle. normally only used when the oil guns run dry :)

most oils are castrol in aus boys. and to be honest. they are prob just throwing in magnatec or whatever they throw in the the magnas and other commercial vehicles. truth is. wer allocated 50mins to do a oil + filter, R+B, checks and fluids. then if u wanted a w/a take another 30mins. the techs need to be efficient and most of the time we wont have time to run to parts to fetch a bottle of oil thats been sitting in a warehouse in dubai for 18months :D

[markimak]

what im saying is if the service place is saying they are throwing in a fully syn oil and cant provide the bottle i doubt it. when i was working as a tech in 06 no one in aust was dealing with 20gln drums of EDGE or royal purple.

[thagee_76]

fauxpas - I beg to differ re: your opinions about the warranty and servicing. I have had a good read of what is written in the Warranty manual. No where in the manual does it stipulate that servicing needs to be carried out by a MMAL approved dealer. Nor does it even stipulate the work needs to be performed by a MMAL approved mechanic. The warranty DOES have an out clause, where if they feel that improper parts/servicing have been conducted then they can elect to not honour a claim should you make one.
You are correct in that your roadside assistance certificate is only renewed when you have the car serviced at a MMAL dealer -so yes you do need to have you car serviced by MMAL at least once every 12 months to maintain the roadside assistance (potentially no big deal if you are a memebr of the RACV, RAA etc...).
I used to perform the 5K Km oil changes on my S15 and have the dealer service it for major services (every 10K km's). There were never any issues with warranty with thsi set-up. I used to sign and document my oil changes, exactly like a mechanic.
The service manual/warranty book, actually suggests that the REGULAR service is at 15K km's or 12 month intervals (these include all your other fluid checks, body and suspension inspections and hooking it up to a PC...).

i would argue that you should be checking your fluids (including oil) once a month anyway - perhaps when you wash your car ;)

That's just my 2cents worth - as a disclaimer, your best bet is to talk to a ralliart dealer and ask them what you can 'get away' with legally.

[shaun0]

i had a clutch, flywheel and clutch cable replaced under warranty after doing all of my own services for 2 years, just signed and dated the book myself... they need to prove you are incompetent, well more incompetent than the standard monkey service they offer...(eeek 'cept markimak of course...!) if they bounce a claim. was a different manufacturer tho but they are all governed by the same rules....

[Blaze]

Next oil change is going to be done with castrol edge. Super cheap has got them at $29.95 for the 5 litres.

[thagee_76]

Here you go - straight from the roadside assist manual - you only need to have the car in once a year for scheduled servicing to qualify for roadside and for extended warranty!

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa92/thagee76/IMG_1925.jpg

So it will be 5K oil changes @ home and 10K services @ mitsi's = More $$$ in my wallet.

Oh I went and purchased some Motul turbolight 4100 10w-40. I'll let you know how it goes. I just couldn't come at $70 for the 8100, I'm not running mods and I haven't tagged the rev limiter yet, so I figure a good quality semi-syn is ok for trhe driving I do. The 4100 cost em $55 from Autobarn...
...just out of interest they had Royal Purple there for around $95 for 5 litres...YIKES!

[Macca]

Are you an MTA approved mechanic?

If not you will void you warrenty by not sticking to the shedualed log book servicng, im sure that will be written in there.

All log book servicing is supposed to be carried out but an approved mechanic.

Our 5000km oil changes are log book services.

Just double check that part, unless you are an approved mechanic lol

[fauxpas]

So it will be 5K oil changes @ home and 10K services @ mitsi's = More $$$ in my wallet.

I still think you'll need a mechanic to do the 5k intervals. Someone allowed to do handbook services. If I'm wrong I'm wrong, but I'm not going to risk it and be a povo ralliart colt owner... That's just nasty! :p

[thagee_76]

The only line in the entire warranty manual you could possibly interpret as you needing to have an MTA mechanic perform a simple 5K Km oil change is the line on page 5 which states 'any defect that occurs as a direct result of failure to carry out maintenance service as specified in this manual'.
Considering that an oil change and ONLY an oil change is specified for the 5K Km services - Not anywhere in the entire warranty manual does it refer to an MTA mechanic having to anything.

The only services which specify prevtative maintenance are the 12 month or 15K Km services.

re: being povo - at the very least I guarentee that decent oil goes into my car every 5,000 km's and that the oil filter gets changed. There are no guarentee's that the oil you hand your service centre get's put in your car. I knwo too many mechanics who have worked in big service centres to know that the service items you pay for are not necessarily the service that gets performed...I guess it comes down to how paranoid you are really ;)

[shaun0]

hahaha yeah! had a 1000km new car service done, air filter inspected.... there was a moth the size of a small chicken in the thing... "so you check the filter and replace if needed?" "oh yeah!" "look..." "oh?!"

......stealers :eek:

[thagee_76]

Completed the 5K Km oil change last night - my only advice to those of you keen to have a go at this...if your car is warm when you do the change, be wary of the exhaust muffler next to the sump - It's such a crammed engine bay this sucker is ready to sear your unwary flesh!
I can def confirm, the car takes a good 3.5-3.7 litres of oil for the change!

I'll let you know how long it takes for the oil to go from golden to black!

Oh and after speaking with the guys at Australian Motors, they were more than fine with anyone doing the oil changes, as long as they used a quality oil and OEM filter, there is no risk to warranty, they did stipulate that you should service the car with them for the major services.

So go forth and change oil!

All up the oil change cost me $75 and over an hour of my time - but mainly because it had been a good 3 years since I had performed an oil change myself, I'll be quicker next time!

[stylo]

How much was the sump plug ?

[pAuL]

i changed my oil @ 25,~~~-something, its now on 27~~~-something, and its starting to turn black

[thagee_76]

Sump plug washer was a HUGE $1.50
Filter was just over $18 and the oil was $55 (and I still have over a litre left, so I guess every 4th oil change you don't have to pay for oil as it were...).

Go forth and oil change!

[greymarine]

Hey guys,

Im leasing my RColt and just called up the lease place for its 5,000km service to get it booked in. The lease company tells me that its not due till 15,000km for a service. They reckon the 5,000km services are only under "extreme conditions". Strange that, cause everything I read in my manual points to there being mandatory 5,000km services. Is he pulling my leg? He says I wont void my warranty if I dont get the oil changed till 15000! Not that I would ever go that long.

Not that I care that much though, I plan on doing changes myself every 2500 with a trip to the dealer for the 5000 services (and the 15,000 of course). The manual states that its extreme conditions are city driving and hot weather driving and that under these conditions it recommends 2500 oil changes. Is anyone else doing this with their RColt? My cars miles are all around town and its (usually) hot in Melbourne this time of year.

Or should I, as people have expressed here, do all my oil and filter changes up until the 15,000? Ive already changed the oil at 2500 but im sending it to the dealer for the 5000 to get that bloody oil filter loosened! I couldnt get the oil filter off at the 2500 due to it have been put on by a rattle gun or something at the factory. So much for the "one and half turns after contact" tightness! My arse.

[lovecolt]

I'm not sure how leasing work when coming to sell the car. But for a private owner, i will not touch any japanese turbo car that has a longer service interval longer than 5000+.

As for 2500km......i don't think its needed. City driving is never really considered to be extreme in my book. Its more for constant spirited drive or track work.

[Jusnippinout]

Maybe I've 'pulled the plug' on my warranty, I dunno, but I do the 5000km oil changes myself.

The first time I did the change myself, I noticed that the engine was running slightly quieter and smoother after the oil change. This might have been my imagination, or maybe the garage had been using the wrong oil - who knows? I feel much better knowing that I've definitely got the right oil and filter, whereas I simply can't be sure when a garage does it. I don't trust 'em!

[lovecolt]

Jusnippinout: You are not imaging things. Car will be smoother after any oil change.

[Macca]

Tell you lease person that all mitsubishi TURBO cars require oil changes at 5000km and he is a douche bag LOL

[Jusnippinout]

Jusnippinout: You are not imaging things. Car will be smoother after any oil change.

As an ex-mechanic, I know that replacing shitty old water-thin oil with fresh, viscous oil will make a difference, but it is many years since I felt any difference after a change, perhaps because oils last longer these days. That first change I did myself on the Colt was unlike any other though. The difference was quite marked in terms of lower noise. I'm not completely convinced it was smoother - hard to say.

[Nic85]

I'm about to put Penrite SYN 10W-70 into my Colt.

[filofaith]

i just threw in 0w-40 Castrol Formula R... please tell me it was an ok choice lol

its the same oil ive used on all my cars so i thought rcolt is no different

[thagee_76]

Do manufacturers still use a 'running in oil'? This is usually a thinner oil for getting things nice and hot to bed everything in. I would imagine that changing this oil to a more viscous oil would change engine noises.

Re; The filter being on too tight - I bought myself one of those oil filter remover spanner thingies (very technical) they are cheap and available from any motoring store, I found it a cinch to get it off using one of these!

[markimak]

some do. i knw mitsu do in gearboxes and transfer cases. engine wise i dnt knw.

a problem with the evos is the OEM oil in the transfer cases of the evoIX when tracked thins too much and will cause the transfer to fail. all because ther running in oil is thin and changed at 40,000kms

[banana]

just bought castrol edge sport 5w30 full syn for $49 at kmart!

[Nic85]

just bought castrol edge sport 5w30 full syn for $49 at kmart!

Personally I think a 30 weight is too thin for our Colts. The engines run very hot because the turbo generates a lot of heat. Your oil will get very hot and lose a lot of it's viscosity at higher temps and a 30 grade oil, IMO, will not offer enough protection.

[banana]

Personally I think a 30 weight is too thin for our Colts. The engines run very hot because the turbo generates a lot of heat. Your oil will get very hot and lose a lot of it's viscosity at higher temps and a 30 grade oil, IMO, will not offer enough protection.

hmm i was advised by a pro mechanic and he said the engine oils are infront of engines by 50 years. i dont think its much of a issue.

im more concerned about someone getting 10w 70 lol

[Nic85]

hmm i was advised by a pro mechanic and he said the engine oils are infront of engines by 50 years. i dont think its much of a issue.

im more concerned about someone getting 10w 70 lol

10W-70 will offer optimum protection at well below 0 degrees on cold start ups, and also keep it's viscosity well over 120 degrees. The 30 weight will break down well before that and offer little to no protection. I use 10W-70 in my EVO. Like I said, it's just my opinion, you're more than welcome to listen to your mechanic. :)

[Frogman]

I was just reading some posts in this thread and it seems a few peple are concerned about their oils... Here are some pointers...

Oil that turns black is a good thing, it means it's doing it's job

The numbers on the oil eg: 10w60. 10 is the weight or viscosity, the thicker it is the harder it is to move about the engine. I wouldn't be using anything thicker than what the handbook says. The next number is the temperature rating... What this means is it will maintain the viscosity until the engine reaches that number/temp. Then it will start to lose it's viscosity.

This is what I was told by the reps that come into work

[Spaceboy]

w is for winter not weight as commonly thought:


The SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. Historically, the first number associated with the W (again 'W' is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as well as a single-grade SAE 10 oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W" and "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W". The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. This "classic" method of defining the "W" rating has since been replaced with a more technical test where a "cold crank simulator" is used at increasingly lowered temps. A 0W oil is tested at −35 °C (−31 °F), a 5W at −30 °C (−22 °F) and a 10W is tested at −25 °C (−13 °F). The real-world ability of an oil to crank in the cold is diminished soon after put into service. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle (although some modern European cars now make no viscosity requirement), but can vary from country to country when climatic or mpg constraints come into play.

[Blaze]

So does this mean that the first number does not really matter.
Just as long as its low.
And the second number is what matters.

Does this mean that the oil im using which is castrol edge 5-30 will not cope in hot weather?

[Spaceboy]

the number does make a difference to the speed the oil reaches tappets on startup and the time it takes to reach optimum temperature,
each engine is a bit different, so consult your owners handbook. it should say what ambient temperatures each oil is suitable for.

i think sae 30 is suitable up to 40deg c

[ob1tanobey]

i'm using 5w-30, does it mean i can't drive it if the temperature is 41 degrees?

[Nic85]

i'm using 5w-30, does it mean i can't drive it if the temperature is 41 degrees?

No. 5W-30 is fine for general use until the engine gets a bit older. My personal opinion is that 5W-30 is too thin, but it should be ok.

[Spaceboy]

i'm using 5w-30, does it mean i can't drive it if the temperature is 41 degrees?

according to the colt ralliart owners manual yes 5w-30 is not recommended for temperatures in excess of 40 degrees celcius

you can use it during winter though for better protection while cold and faster warmup though

[leonx---]

so is it clear that we can change the oil at 5k? and have mitsubishi do the 15k? and how long between oil filter change? together with 5k? im about to get the rcolt and totally noob at this as my previous car is done by a semi dodgy but cheap mechanic and i didnt give a crap, as long as it was changed :P. and there was a mention of a guide to change this before? :D just want to make sure what im doing is correct or is it dummy proof?

[lovecolt]

so is it clear that we can change the oil at 5k? and have mitsubishi do the 15k? and how long between oil filter change? together with 5k? im about to get the rcolt and totally noob at this as my previous car is done by a semi dodgy but cheap mechanic and i didnt give a crap, as long as it was changed :P. and there was a mention of a guide to change this before? :D just want to make sure what im doing is correct or is it dummy proof?

Offtopic question, but here you go:

You have to (without fail) change the oil at every 5k by either a MTA certified mechanic or Mitsubishi to maintain your warranty and have to have a service with Mitsubishi once per year to maintain the roadside assist. Can't remember the requirement for the oil filter, but its a performance engine, i wouldn't even skip it for the sake of saving 20 dollars.

Summary, its all mentioned in the owner's manual or somewhere in the forum. Therefore, be patient and all questions will be answered by itself when you got the car ;)

[aby82]

oil filter change every 2nd oil change.. but yeh its up to u, i change mine every 5000k.. most of the time :p

[Nic85]

oil filter change every 2nd oil change.. but yeh its up to u, i change mine every 5000k.. most of the time :p

Why change the filter every second oil change? An oil filter is like $11 and helps filter all the rubbish from your oil... seems like a cheapskate move to me which could potentially do damage.

[ommeh]

Just got some Mobil1 put in the car today for tomorrows track day.

See how it goes :D

[aby82]

Why change the filter every second oil change? An oil filter is like $11 and helps filter all the rubbish from your oil... seems like a cheapskate move to me which could potentially do damage.

if thats what mitsubishi requires how can it potentially cause damage?? its every 5000k's ffs.. personally i do change it every 5k, but if i'm outta stock i'm not gonna cry about it.

[Nic85]

if thats what mitsubishi requires how can it potentially cause damage?? its every 5000k's ffs.. personally i do change it every 5k, but if i'm outta stock i'm not gonna cry about it.

Ok? :confused:

[GM Grey]

I use the Ralliart Sport oil filter and i still change at every 5k service. Just better for the car i guess.

[markimak]

i had motul turbo light in my evoVII when i got it. and it was meh... was a fresh change. and i switched it out for Royal Purple 10w-40. and i noticed the difference immediately it was amazing.

sean (filofaith) is gonna try RP next service. its around 80-100 for a 5L bottle.

anyone else use it. oh and i use DRiFT magnetic filters.

[lovecolt]

I have been using that spec of Royal Purple for the last 2 change. The engine certainly felt smooth in it.

[markimak]

I have been using that spec of Royal Purple for the last 2 change. The engine certainly felt smooth in it.


so uve seen the light too huh mate.? the purple light haha

[lovecolt]

so uve seen the light too huh mate.? the purple light haha

Actually, i saw more of my "$" angel flying away everytime :D

[Spaceboy]

I hope that was just to show us the brand name, because a 15W-50 oil in our RColts in winter = suicide. :eek:

There's nothing wrong with the Ryco filter and you won't get your warranty voided for using one. I usually pick up the Ryco filters from a guy I know at Auto One at better than trade price for about $3.50. Now in winter I'm running Penrite fully synthetic 5W-50 oil. When it gets warmer again I'll probably swap back to the Penrite 10W-70.

yeah i just changed from 15w40 to 10w40 the other day when i did the oil change, so yea 15w is fine for winter :)

been over all that in the other thread tho
http://www.rcolt.com/showthread.php?t=131

[Nic85]

yeah i just changed from 15w40 to 10w40 the other day when i did the oil change, so yea 15w is fine for winter :)

been over all that in the other thread tho
http://www.rcolt.com/showthread.php?t=131

Yeah, there is a dedicated oil thread for this discussion. I'll just say there's no way I'd be using a 15W in winter in our RColts.

[Spaceboy]

Yeah, there is a dedicated oil thread for this discussion. I'll just say there's no way I'd be using a 15W in winter in our RColts.

if you check your owners manual you will see that 15w40 is recommended for ambient temperatures from -15c to 50+c so its far more than capable for an australian winter.

and i believe that 5w50 and 10w70 are not specifically recommended for this engine,
and that at operating temp they will be increasing drag within the engine.

[Nic85]

if you check your owners manual you will see that 15w40 is recommended for ambient temperatures from -15c to 50+c so its far more than capable for an australian winter.

and i believe that 5w50 and 10w70 are not specifically recommended for this engine,
and that at operating temp they will be increasing drag within the engine.

Is that what the owners manual states? This is my personal feeling only. I believe the turbo 4G15 needs a bit thinner oil on start up in colder weather.

[vikingjonas]

When I was in for my service the other day they put 10w30 in....

[Nic85]

When I was in for my service the other day they put 10w30 in....

10W30 should be fine for winter, but not for summer, and especially not if you give the car a hard time. A 30 weight oil will lose its viscosity at higher temps that turbo engines are known for when worked hard.

Personally I'll use 5W-50 all year round now after doing a lot of research into this topic. If we ever track the car or intend on abusing it thoroughly, we'll probably go with the Penrite 10W-70 for maximum protection.

[Frogman]

So I checked out what sort of oil I needed to use in the penrite book, it told that I needed 0w-50 if I went with their fully synthetic... So I did.. And I got the evo DRiFT filter... So far so good. Strangely enough the lifters don't make a noise anymore

[Frogman]

So I checked out what sort of oil I needed to use in the penrite book, it told that I needed 0w-50 if I went with their fully synthetic... So I did.. And I got the evo DRiFT filter... So far so good. Strangely enough the lifters don't make a noise anymore

[filofaith]

servicing tomorow adding my nice Royal Purple 10w-40 again :)

[markimak]

at our special prices aye sean :D


anyway the penrite is BBFYB

on sale now at repco $40per bottle. 10-40full syn

[Oz.eColt]

Ok guys, lol.. alot of reading & not a mind made up!

Whats the best oil & filter for our Rcolts?

Cut to the chase??

[Nic85]

Ok guys, lol.. alot of reading & not a mind made up!

Whats the best oil & filter for our Rcolts?

Cut to the chase??

Everyone has their own opinion on oils. I would recommend Penrite SYN (fully synthetic, not semi synthetic) 5W-50 because it's a quality oil and because it's Australian. The oil filter number is Ryco Z411.

[runuts]

Penrite SIN 15 would be far better for it. There is no need to go to a 50 grade oil, thats for sure.

[Oz.eColt]

Penrite SYN (fully synthetic, not semi synthetic) 5W-50 & Penrite SIN 15.. are they the same?

[Frogman]

If you check out the oil recommendation for penrite it says SINE0... That's what's listed for the z27 colt... The sin 15 is way too heavy

[Zadok]

Straight from the owners manual (14-6):

For temperatures ranging from -15 degrees Celcius to 50+ degrees ceclius 15W40 is recommended. 20W40 is recommended for temperatures ranging between -10 degrees celcius to 50+ degrees, and 10W30 is recommended for temperatures ranging from -25 degrees celcius to 40 degrees celcius.

Also note that the engine oil must conform to the following classification:
- ACEA classification: A1/B1, A3/B3, A3/B4 or A5/B5
- API classification: SG or higher

Personally I just finished putting Valvoline 10W40 semi synthetic into mine, as I think full synthetic is overkill for oil that is changed every 5000 km. It's your money though, do as you like :)

[runuts]

If you check out the oil recommendation for penrite it says SINE0... That's what's listed for the z27 colt... The sin 15 is way too heavy

At operating temp, SIN 0 is heavier than SIN 15.

[turbogt]

So whats the solution now? Just found out my dealer used FMX Magnatec oil for my service. Should I keep use it or replace something better?

[Corosith]

Simple, just use the grade of oil that the manufacturer recommends (in your owners manual), doesn't really matter what brand it is. Leave the magnatec in your engine, no point is wasting money trying different brands but using the same grades in my opinion, so long as it is a full synthetic oil, not a blend or mineral one.

[turbogt]

Thanks man, I dont think magnatec is full syn right?

[Corosith]

It is, check out their website, they test it against part-synthetic oils.:)

[turbogt]

Thanks man. I found out my dealer was using Magnatec FMX, but FMX is is not longer manufacture in the Castrol Web site. And FMX is 10-30. I will change to Magnatec 10-40 when I do my oil engine next time. OR Change other brand that is 15-40.

[turbogt]

Just picked up the Motul 4100 Turbolight engine oil from repco for my Rcolt next service. Do you guys always engine oil flush when you do the engine oil change?

[Nic85]

Just picked up the Motul 4100 Turbolight engine oil from repco for my Rcolt next service. Do you guys always engine oil flush when you do the engine oil change?

No real need on a pretty much new engine. I've never used an engine flush, even on my Magna which has 145,000kms.

That's not to say you shouldn't.

[Zadok]

I now use Fuchs Titan XTM 15w40 semi synthetic ($35 for 5 litres) and am happy with it if anyone's interested in a decent 15w40 semi synthetic.

[turbogt]

Thanks Nic85. Coz my dealer used engine flush everytime when I had the car service with them. The Motul 4100 cost me $60 from Repco, and the filter cost me almost $14

[Danyutz]

Got Motul Power Racing 300v 5w30

[oodLes]

Anyone used Havoline Premium Plus 10w-30? About to go in on Tuesday for a service and wonder if I should go get something different.

[Zadok]

I suggest reading a site like http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/index.html to understand the ratings for yourself if you already aren't aware. Personally I use a 15w40 as it is perfect for the weather conditions in QLD. Also, your manual will let you know what oils they recommend for different climates (which is again why I went with a 15w40 oil).

[Nic85]

I suggest reading a site like http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/index.html to understand the ratings for yourself if you already aren't aware. Personally I use a 15w40 as it is perfect for the weather conditions in QLD. Also, your manual will let you know what oils they recommend for different climates (which is again why I went with a 15w40 oil).

Oils are a lot more than simply climate related. Viscosity ratings are only the beginning. 15W-40 is far too heavy for a Ralliart Colt Engine.

[Zadok]

No it is not. Read your manual (it specifically lists the oils as suitable).

[98SPORT]

I use Shell Helix Semi-Synthetic 10-40,car is responsive,engine clean and no varnish deposits, and im quite happy with it.
On my wifes 09 VRX Colt with the 4A91 engine we use Magnatec,i was offered some at a heavily discounted rate and brought a few boxes a while back,i dont personally like it,so when we use it up it will go to shell as well.
We found in the bigger engine cars ( we had his and hers vrx 380s)that magnatec does gum them up and every so often run an engine flush through them.
Everyone has there favourite oil,i can only pass comment on our experiences.

[filofaith]

everyone should buy Royal Purple once and see how good it is :) after 4000kms it still looked like i just serviced the car that weak and from all reviews and test its always topping :) but then it has that price tag... last service i dropped in Nulon full Synthetic as a test and will go back to Royal Purple i think

[Nic85]

everyone should buy Royal Purple once and see how good it is :) after 4000kms it still looked like i just serviced the car that weak and from all reviews and test its always topping :) but then it has that price tag... last service i dropped in Nulon full Synthetic as a test and will go back to Royal Purple i think

Just because the oil looks new after 4000kms doesn't mean it's a good oil. Infact, it could mean the opposite. The reason oil becomes blackened is because it's cleaning deposits left in your engine. On a turbo car this is more pronounced because they generally work harder and under far more pressure.

[Zadok]

I also don't think any fancy oils like Royal Purple are worth the cost, as while they do resist breakdown better (meaning the oil can be changed less often), our oil is changed every 5k km's, defeating the purpose of spending large amounts of money on fancy fully synthetic oils. However, if someone wants to spend $100 for every oil change I also respect that persons decision, I will just continue using Fuchs XTM semi-synthetic 15w-40 (as the Mitsubishi manual specifically lists semi-synthetic 15w-40 oil is suitable for the climate I live in) :)

[edge]

i use motel since day one i own the car, the frist few oil change i use motel V300 10w40, then chnage to 8100 5w40, what i found is that the 8100 give me better fuel economy....performance i guess they are the same from what i feel like...

[Zadok]

You will also find that the engine frees up with use and naturally generates more power and better fuel economy edge, and I'd be interested to see how you went now with your old oil :)

[edge]

they usually get silky black and smells every time i do oil change.....

[Zadok]

Haha, I mean if you tried motel V300 10w40 again now (the oil you used initially) you would likely find no real differences, as the engine has had a chance to free up with use :)

[edge]

ohh....hahaha...i will give that a go some time later, i've bought HEAPS of 8100 when i got the 20% off voucher at repco, so once i finish them i will try V300 again and see it for myself...=D

so what other oil you suggest? my friend he use to use royal purple for his car, maybe i should give that a go as well?

[Zadok]

Oils are like just about everything else mate, everyone has different opinions on what is 'best'. I'd suggest following the Mitsubishi manual regarding oil qualities for your climate, and choose a brand that has a good reputation and doesn't cost the earth. Personally I believe oils like Royal purple are complete overkill for our cars, as our oil is changed every 5k km's, and the greatest strength of expensive fully synthetic oils is their ability to resist breakdown, maintaining their rated levels of viscosity (ie. 5w40) under greater stress and for longer periods than cheaper semi-synthetics and the like. These issues are not a problem for a car like ours with regular 5k km oil changes. However, you may want to run more expensive fully synthetic oils if you are making far more power than stock and regularly tracking the car (which is certainly not currently a worry for any Aussie Rcolts).

[odysseyesm]

Quite a few of the WRX/Liberty crowd use engine oils specified for Diesel engines.

Good lubricity, low viscosity, excellent protection/life and cheap as.

[Nic85]

Quite a few of the WRX/Liberty crowd use engine oils specified for Diesel engines.

Good lubricity, low viscosity, excellent protection/life and cheap as.

Diesel engine oil should NEVER be used in a petrol engine. My old boss used diesel oil in a couple of our business cars, one of them, a 2000 Barina, within 1000kms threw a rod through the block while I was driving it. Put a hole in the block the size of an orange. The other cars all developed big end knocks.

[bpt4w]

K change the oil in my car for the 40k service (box ect as well) but the change was dramatic , a hell of a lot smoother in pwr delivery now (doesn't seem to be pwr surges) and you can hear the turbo spooling up now. The previous oil was Motul 10-40 full synth so it was a very good oil as well but have to say this stuff craps on it , could be me justifying the $100 per bottle oil though .

All i can say is give it a try once recon you won't go back.

[odysseyesm]

Diesel engine oil should NEVER be used in a petrol engine. My old boss used diesel oil in a couple of our business cars, one of them, a 2000 Barina, within 1000kms threw a rod through the block while I was driving it. Put a hole in the block the size of an orange. The other cars all developed big end knocks.

I don't reckon a car with 1000kms use on a particular oil would throw a rod purely due to the oil used.

My statement still stands regarding the use of Diesel engine oil. There are some engine builders who specilise in high performance sube engines who reccomend using Rimula in their engines. The oil also gets changed every 5000k's religiously as the engines tend be used in race type situations. AKAIK there have been no failures due to the oil.

[Rockstar]

Wow. I must be bored. I read 185 posts on engine oil and since 2008 the popular oil has changed from Magnatec (which I hate. Most mechanics use it because they can buy a 200L for about the same as a carton of XXXX and it's about as good for your car. Yes it sticks to your pistons and protects on cold startup but then it continues clinging to your pistons and you get no torque and power surges on mid-acceleration. They use the same crap in our Lancer.
When I worked at Autobarn we used to have reps from every company tell us why thier oil is better but they drove cars less than 3 years old and it doesn't matter what oil you run unless your looking to do more than 100,000k's or you want to drive fast. A to B cars you won't tell the difference between black and gold and slick honey.
I personally listened to the Motul rep because he showed up in a heavily worked Aristo with near 200,000 on the clock running original pistons.

However I seem to be hearing that everyone who sprigs for Royal Purple (never heard of it, probably can't get it in Toowoomba. Can only get what goes in Holden Utes in a redneck town) seems to like it, and the people who don't like haven't tried it. Plus I read somewhere increases turbo whistle. :-)

On that topic, has anyone driven through rainforest with the windows down and the radio off and heard turbo whistle through the trees? Most awe inspiring experience of my life. (Not the RColt mind you. Took a truck up the Bunya Mountains)

I'm due for a change even though the dealer just did it. (Almost at 40,000 oil change, don't know why he bothered. Put some Valvoline crap in it too.) So I'll see how financial I am and let you know the difference between garbage and good stuff. I tend to steer away from anything by the big companies. Shell, Valvoline, Castrol, BP. They make oil for Mum and Dad to drop thier kids at school who don't want dead rings.

[Macca]

When I worked at Autobarn we used to have reps from every company tell us why thier oil is better but they drove cars less than 3 years old and it doesn't matter what oil you run unless your looking to do more than 100,000k's or you want to drive fast. A to B cars you won't tell the difference between black and gold and slick honey.
I personally listened to the Motul rep because he showed up in a heavily worked Aristo with near 200,000 on the clock running original pistons.

my mirage had 280,000kms ont he clock i never changed the clutch from 117k when i got it and i sold it fine, all you need is regular oil changes

However I seem to be hearing that everyone who sprigs for Royal Purple (never heard of it, probably can't get it in Toowoomba. Can only get what goes in Holden Utes in a redneck town) seems to like it, and the people who don't like haven't tried it. Plus I read somewhere increases turbo whistle. :-)

stupidesd thing i have ever herd, and i herd michael jaclson didnt touch little boys once

On that topic, has anyone driven through rainforest with the windows down and the radio off and heard turbo whistle through the trees? Most awe inspiring experience of my life. (Not the RColt mind you. Took a truck up the Bunya Mountains)

get a pod filter ;)

I'm due for a change even though the dealer just did it. (Almost at 40,000 oil change, don't know why he bothered. Put some Valvoline crap in it too.) So I'll see how financial I am and let you know the difference between garbage and good stuff. I tend to steer away from anything by the big companies. Shell, Valvoline, Castrol, BP. They make oil for Mum and Dad to drop thier kids at school who don't want dead rings.

you couldnt be further than the truth they all make good oil you just need to get the right one for your application. And all the other brands are just OTT expencive, we change out oil every 5k, any oil at the right grades would do you fine.

[Zadok]

I agree with Macca. I've never used Royal Purple myself, and never plan on doing it as the oil is changed every 5k km's and any difference between a quality semi-synthetic and royal purple in our cars would be about as accurate as people claiming their BOV's have increased power etc when the stock unit never leaked in the first place. If I had spent $100 on an oil change I'd also be looking for ANYTHING that made it 'better'. I personally run Fuchs XTM 15w40 semi-synthetic at $33 for 5L as the viscosity is specifically listed in the manual as an appropriate oil for the climate here in QLD.

[Rockstar]

I beg to differ. My brother used to use Savings brand oil from Action supermarket in his old VH and it was the correct rating for the car and he kept doing an exhaust valve on cylinder 5, when I bought it off him I used Penrite with the same rating and thrashed the crap out of the car and never did a valve. The guy who bought it off me used Shell and blew the whole damn thing up. I can't say for sure it was oil that did it, but I'm convinced.
Point 2, Castrol GTX and Mobil both leaked from the dizzy gasket of my Pulsar, but Penrite didn't. Put repco brand in it now because I'm selling it, took it for roadworthy and it failed because of an oil leak around the dizzy. (All oils were the same rating)

If all oils are the equal then why do Castrola and Shell spend $13m each every year working on improving it? Why do airlines and other craft of criticle nature use "better quality" oil than regular road cars?

There's a lot of evidence that different price oils are different quality. But I'll do my own tests now I have a turbo to care for. :-)

How much oil do these things hold BTW?

[Zadok]

Obviously it is advisable to run a decent brand semi-synthetic, and not a savings brand oil, but the difference between a decent semi-synthetic (such as Fuchs, Valvoline, Penrite etc) and royal purple would be a complete waste of money in my opinion. You are welcome to run whatever oil you want, it's your car and your money, I'm just offering my advice after my own experiences and reading :). The car takes something like 3.5L of oil.

[Raymond6]

Ok here we go again if all the post on what type of engine oil should we use that have been posted on this forum in the last 4 years in would be a section in its own right there must be at least 50 pages.

Been to the USA recently Penrite is considered to be like Castrol not much chop to be used in your stuffed old bomb but not in your new Corvette or Hummer the oils that some of the pros over their love and sware by are Amsoil by a contry mile followed by Vavoline 100% Synthetic and Moble 1 this corresponds to the following Data at http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/APIComparativeOilTest.aspx.

I personnal used Valvoline 5w-40 full Synthetic in my Rcolt I found it to reduce engine noise improve how smooth it ran and seamed to have a bit more power at oil change intervals of every 7500km the oil always looked like new and had very liiitle additional fuel oder the Rcolt would only use about 0.25L of oil in this period even when I thrashed it to within an inch of its life.
I now use it in my RLancer and have seen the same results but if I could get my hands on Amsoil 5-40 full synthetic id take it in a split second

[Zadok]

Those oils are all very good, but like Macca and I have already said, it's overkill in a car that has to have its oil changed every 5k km's to maintain warranty. The best thing about a fully synthetic oil is the fact that it resists breakdown better. Anyway, use what you like, if you feel it makes a noticeable difference then keep buying it :)

[Rockstar]

I just see the fact that I pay four hundred something dollars a year insurance "in case" I run into someone, for a few hundred extra dollars a year I'll run a good oil "in case" there is a difference. I only run 15,000 a year so thats three changes, at an extra $50 a change, $150 a year. I spend more than that on chocolate bars.
With a new turbo coming in at $1500 and an engine at $6000 it's worth it.

By the way, with all the comments that turbos "only" have to do 5000 between services, thats because the oil that runs through your engine also runs through your turbo and is exposed to higher than usual temperatures so breakdown is faster. Also you want your oil to be as free as possible from impurities so it desperses heat better. You don't want filings in it conducting heat and raising turbo temperatures and ruining bearings.

So I see the fact that we're required to change three times more than a regular engine as more of a reason to run a better quality oil. Anything that needs to be changed that often MUST take a beating.

I don't really think it will affect me anyway because the type of oil you use only shows later in engine life (Over 150,000) and I don't think I'll own my car at that time.

[fauxpas]

Bad analogy Rockstar but we know what you're saying...

[Rockstar]

Ok, better one!
My Nankang tyres are the same as recommended by the tyre placard, but I know if I spend more I will get a better performing tyre.

Penzoil makes an oil recommended by my service manual, but maybe if I spend more I'll get a better oil.

Tyres you can notice a difference. Oil, unless you shrink yourslef and get a suit that allows you to walk around in 120 degree temperatures, is something you don't notice a difference in.

[lovecolt]

I'm with Rockstar on this. Just so people don't get misunderstood, we are changing oil at every 5000km instead of the usual 10000 or 15000km, is really because turbo engine is working alot more stress than the normal N/A engine. Therefore, we ain't changing oil any more than what a normal n/a car (technically)

Just like the analogy of the tyres, everyone has their own preference, but one simply can't say its pointless to use a better oil.....unless you are changing at every 2-3000km which will be a fair call.

[Zadok]

Except that the performance difference between tyres is significant, and the difference between oils is hard to measure even on a dyno.

[lovecolt]

Except that the performance difference between tyres is significant, and the difference between oils is hard to measure even on a dyno.

That's correct and i doubt anyone's arguing that. Engine oil's really meant to protect the engine and not really for performance improvement.

[edge]

from my experience i notice difference in fuel usage when i use different oil....=D

[Macca]

Anyone know who sells Fuchs oil?

Or a price on the titan 5w30 from them?

[Rockstar]

I'll have a look tomorrow. However my QLD prices will be better than yours due an origin win tonight.

[Rockstar]

2 types of Fuchs 5w30 or whatever it was you asked. Don't remember, too sick. Got prices between bouts of vomiting. Sorry for the image.
Standard SuperSyn is $68.30 for 5 litres.
But there's a new one out that needs a special filter that looks like an air filter and it's $103 for 5 litres.

Apparently it can only be used on about 3 cars at the moment, but the technology means it only has to be changed every 30,000km's (In N/A cars obviously) and apparently they're working on a diesel oil that lasts 100,000k's. Those crazy Germans.

I found it on Oakey, of all places, and it's all they sell.

[Macca]

who the hell would want to change there oil every 100,000, gee i changed my gearbox at 50,000 just cause 100,000 between changes is way too long, should even change it more often with the track work.

[Rockstar]

I think you missed the word Diesel. I.E. Light commercial vehicles, and grandpa rides.

[Macca]

Yeh I saw that but still granpa would take 5 years to hit 100k fuck that in one oil change. Hell i bet the manual would even say it needs to be done yearly reguardless of kms.

light commercial well I still wouldnt want it to be 100k as most LC's would be turbocharged and would you leave it in for 100k despite what the lable on the bottle said?

I ended up going for some Motul 10w40 turbolite $50 from autobahn, ill try it out, if i dont like it ill go Castrol Edge, oil changed are every 6 or 7 weeks for me.

[Rockstar]

I was thinking motul, but everyone is raving about the cold starts from royal purple. And I get back power surging from cold. Don't like the price though
I was thinking of getting 5 people to go in on a 20L drum and get 4L each.

[Rockstar]

Anyone know the difference between royal purple and royal purple xpr race?

Besides $10/litre?

[Macca]

Well that was a messy job, They should have put the damn oil filter on an angle so I dont get oil everywhere LOL.

Anyone get increased tappet noise with Moutal Turbolite 10w40? I did. Went away after a drive.

Thou I also did run an engine flush before the old oil was dropped out, and it came out very very black.

Used Liqui-Moly Engine Flush Plus it said a can would do 6L so i used half. about $17 a can.

[fauxpas]

Strolling through supercheap the other day I was really pleased to see Nulon has engine oil... No idea how long its been available... Full synth 10W40 in a 6ltr bottle for 60ish bucks... Yeehaw!

I've always been a fan of Nulon products and to have an Aussie oil which is cost effective is great...

http://www.nulon.com.au/files/images/oil/SYN10W40/SYN10W40-SIX.jpg

[Macca]

Well that was a messy job, They should have put the damn oil filter on an angle so I dont get oil everywhere LOL.

Anyone get increased tappet noise with Moutal Turbolite 10w40? I did. Went away after a drive.

Thou I also did run an engine flush before the old oil was dropped out, and it came out very very black.

Used Liqui-Moly Engine Flush Plus it said a can would do 6L so i used half. about $17 a can.

I just Had castrol Edge 5w30 put in, I rate it so far.

The Motul i had was rather black for only being 2 months old

Hahaha note the date above 14/6/10

I did 5000kms in 45 days! Thats like 111km per day. What a silly month and a half

[colTwes]

after 2 months my little colt has reached 5000km
planning on changing the oil soon when we are about to install the temp. and press. gauges
manual says: 15w40, 20w40 or 10w30
i think about going with the 10w30
is that the best choice or what do you guys recommend me?
still gotta figur out the brand though...

[fauxpas]

I'm going with the Nulon Synthetic... Always been a big fan and it's an Aussie company... Available in 5w30 5w40 10w40 and 10w50

Also they come in 6 litres for like $60-70 - Linkie... (http://www.nulon.com.au/product_group/Engine_Oils/)

[fauxpas]

Oh, you're in Belgium... Doh!

[Macca]

i like 5W30 after a bad experience with Moutol 10W40

Im using Castrol Edge 5W30

[banana]

wow i found 5w-30 castrol edge abit too thin. after i used 0w-40 n it was much smoother. i think 5w-30 is cheaper

but ive bought royal purple 10w-40 see how that goes lol.

[coltz]

I have to say in my old car (200sx) Royal Purple made a noticeable difference when i first used it. The engine on start up went from rough to smooth i was amazed. But after sometime you tend to not notice any difference but i guess thats just because i got used to it. Also with Royal purple you could check your dipstick straight away after the oil change to see if the oil is purple ;) Is it possible to start a poll on this thread of what everyone uses?

[0dd0ne]

ive always used mobil one fully synth but i'm trying motul this change. Not sure what type but its $60 a bottle.

[Macca]

At $60 its the turbolite, and I found it crap as

[0dd0ne]

ah the other one this place offers is motul and $110. You reckon thats worth it macca? Seems fucking expensive.

[Macca]

I just went with castrol edge, is going good so far.

[0dd0ne]

i had no issues with the mobil one, but im getting the car serviced at the same time as a tune hence why they only offer motul. i dont get that many days off and im sick of paying $250 and MRT for a fucking filter and oil change.

[bunnybash]

totally agree oddone... that is why i take my car to RPW for servicing, so far it has always been at least 50% off the Mitsu prices, and they do a total log book service... in perth you are crazy to take to Mitsu for all the oil changes...

[Davo_colt]

I have just tried booking in my rcolt for 5000km oil change at a mitsubishi service centre and the guys there are telling me to wait and do it every 7500 kms. They also said to do the service every 15000 kms instead of 10000 kms and it won't affect warranty.

Has anyone else been told this or is everyone doing the standard 5000kms oil change/ 10000km service??

[Zadok]

Mitsubishi dealers are known to be stupid regarding our car, with some ralliart dealers not recognising the car, and even asking where people bought their recaro's from.... The book says 5000km for each oil change, and 15000km for each 'major' service, and that's what I'd strongly suggest doing.

[Blaze]

The older 06 models are every 5k in the manual but the newer updated ones say every 7.5kkms

[Davo_colt]

Mitsubishi dealers are known to be stupid regarding our car, with some ralliart dealers not recognising the car, and even asking where people bought their recaro's from.... The book says 5000km for each oil change, and 15000km for each 'major' service, and that's what I'd strongly suggest doing.

Yeh i thought this might be the case! think i'll stick with what the manual says.


The older 06 models are every 5k in the manual but the newer updated ones say every 7.5kkms

Mine's an 09 and it still says every 5k kms

[ELEGNT]

mine says 5k but i do 7.5

5k is rediculous unless your engine is clapped out and done 350,000km or you are using SHIT oil.

7.5 with full synth and you will be ontop of it

hell, BMWs dont get their 1st service till 40,000km

[runuts]

Its funny you say this. I have two 09' Complied, 08 build colts in my family. Both built within a month of each other. Mine, has service intervals of 5,000kms and majors every 15,000km's. The other one, has minor intervals of 7,500kms, and majors of 15,000kms...

I dare say, mitsi probably changed the servicing intervals in order to line up with their fixed cost servicing, hence increasing the time frame to reduce their own costs.

[<G>]

Don't kid yourselves 5k oil changes is the max, and should be less if your driving is categorized as 'severe', cheapest way to engine longevity is frequent oil changes, don't be retarded and pay someone else to do it, for less money you can do it yourself and ensure a top spec oil is in your car.

[runuts]

With a quality full synthetic, I wouldn't even be concerned with 10 or 15'000km changes. They key is how long it sits around, if it's driven daily, it would be fine. If it sits for long periods, it gives the contaminants time to degrade the additive packages

[98SPORT]

I use Shell 10-40 semi synthetic,change it 7.5ks and filter,have since 1500ks service,after 22500ks i now add a bottle of Wynns friction proofing.In the VR4 i use same oil and friction proofing and change it every 5000ks (v6 twin turbo)and the MD136466 filter on both cars.I dont use Castrol in fact i hate it,the oil sheered and i threw a rod,but thats my choice.
The oil in Mitsus will always discolour because the exhaust pipe runs under the sump and the heat rises straight onto it,go with whatever your happy with and what works.

[0dd0ne]

i put motul 300v in today. Got it on special for 85 down from 110

[filofaith]

im bak on NULON 10w-40 full synthetic bang for buck !!

[Zadok]

With a quality full synthetic, I wouldn't even be concerned with 10 or 15'000km changes. They key is how long it sits around, if it's driven daily, it would be fine. If it sits for long periods, it gives the contaminants time to degrade the additive packages

That's actually a big reason why I simply use Fuchs 15w40 semi synthetic oil (about $35 for 5 litres) and change it every 5k with the OEM filter and have it stamped in my manual. If I wasn't worried about keeping the service book up to date I'd be more inclined to run a fully synthetic and extend the service intervals.

[runuts]

^^^^ good move. You're just wasting your money if you buy full synthetics with 5,000km intervals. Would be different if you were making 250+hp/litre and insane rpm, that's certainly not an issue for us lol

[odysseyesm]

im bak on NULON 10w-40 full synthetic bang for buck !!

+1
For the money, I'll change at 5k. But it looks pretty clean still after around 1500 so maybe I'll leave it.
K&N oil filter too.

[DamoMcTitz]

Castrol Edge Sport 5W-30 FTW

$66 bucks, keep left overs. after three oil changes, will have enough for a freebie.

[filofaith]

Castrol Edge Sport 5W-30 FTW

$66 bucks, keep left overs. after three oil changes, will have enough for a freebie.

i sell taht stuff at work n wudnt touch it with my daily car....

[Macca]

i sell taht stuff at work n wudnt touch it with my daily car....

What dont you like about it. I tried Moutal Turbolite, did not like, The edge is good.

[ELEGNT]

im bak on NULON 10w-40 full synthetic bang for buck !!

+2 always used it

[filofaith]

What dont you like about it. I tried Moutal Turbolite, did not like, The edge is good.

More personal preference but genuinely feel the shitness I went from nulon to that edge crap 0w-40 was good tho just that 5w-30 made the car run worse then wen I had the used nulon oil...

Each to there own but save the money n go nulon

[McCoy]

I'd have to say that Castrol Edge Sport is the best oil we've ever run in regards to longevity, reliability and cleanliness of our engines.

We've done 2 x 12hrs at Bathurst, 1 x 6hr at Eastern Creek, and two full years of the Australian Manufacturers championship (which is made up of over a dozen rounds) and hours upon hours of testing at different Tracks right around Australia on the one engine using that oil. Just to clarify, that's on a factory engine that comes off an assembly line, not a built motor. It's the same engine you'd have in your own car verbatim.

I'd suggest it's pretty good stuff on that basis, but that's just me.

[DamoMcTitz]

Car pulls very hard on Castrol Edge. when they change it, it still looks pretty good.

[filofaith]

real test requires testing more then one oil... royal purple has always been the best for me in every car just cant afford it now days so going nulon which has performed just as good, i remember a workshop did a test and royal purple nulon n penrite wer top... at the end of the day difference is minimal between top brands the main difference is price... but i dont consider castrol a high performance oil compared to the other brands the great for ur commodore (magnatec or GTX3 ;) )

[Blaze]

I use the 0-40 castrol edge stuff. Stocked up when it was on special at 55bucks for 5ltrs.

I know it's working got after each oil change it's pitch black.

[coltz]

I am intending on using Valvoline Synpower, how does that compare?

[odysseyesm]

Unless you're buying Coles/Woolies No Name Brand rubbish I imagine that they're all fine as long as change it regularly.

I put more trust in changing my oil regularly than I do in the mitsubishi warranty that's for sure...

[bpt4w]

after trying various oils from redline, royal purple, castrol edge , mobil 1 synth, motul ect i have found they are all very very close but i have noticed that for turbo cars the one that holds the coolest temp usually wins and that at the moment is royal purple , even though it is noisy with the hydralic lifters at idle it holds a nice 100-110 degrees when racing and when drained doesn't have any breaking down of bonding , though being purple it always comes out black :). I think out of all of us TMR has the most stress testing of a certain brand of oil and if it works for a race car it usually ok for us , but you have to keep in mind that after every race they will be draining the oils ect looking for trouble in the pan oil and that alone says if you change your oil regularly with any oil you most likely will have a good engine till you blow it up with boost :) .

Anyway thought would be good to bump this subject since its such a easy way to keep performance after you have gaining it.

[Satio]

I want to buy some spare engine oil in case i need top up, what can I use to mix with existing? (don't know what they put in)

[odysseyesm]

I want to buy some spare engine oil in case i need top up, what can I use to mix with existing? (don't know what they put in)

According to Mitsubishi they use the Mitsubishi Oil which I think is a Castrol product.
In reality it's probably any oil that they can buy cheap in 44Gal drums. Usually some sort of a Mineral/Synthetic blend.
Any 'good' brand is fine I think, the change interval is what will save/kill your engine.